[SOLVED] AMD K6-2 overclock [Archive]

alex

08-01-01, 12:35 PM

I have a compaq presario 5360, with an AMD K6-2 450 MHz, and I found on the compaq site a chart with the jumper settings. Now, I don't know how to OC it ! The CPU has a 100 MHz FSB, and a multiplier of 4.5x. Could I augment the multiplier from 4.5x @ 5.5x ?

Thanks
PS : heres the link (even if posted lower in the AMD section )http://www.compaq.com/athome/support/msgs/5300/bdjum.html

Paul -The Mad Hatter

08-01-01, 12:57 PM

Yes you could, although you will have to raise the vcore also.

cookedcomp

08-01-01, 01:33 PM

The classic overclock for a AMD K2-6 is usualy 50 MHz or so. in other words you should try to hit 5*100 first and yes rais the voltage.

alex

08-01-01, 08:48 PM

Could I hit 5*100MHz with the default (stock) factory HSF ? Or would it be dangerous (it will be my first OC, and I just want to see how much I can get with an OEM ! - and how much I can twist the CPU !)

BTW, cookedcomp, I like your picture. What game is it from !?

!-=sky=-!

08-01-01, 10:07 PM

hmmmm

i thnk cookedcomp's pic is from gran turismo 2.....

and..........if u can raise the vcore i think u can manage with the stock cpu...that's if u dun bump the voltage too high

alex

08-02-01, 02:18 AM

And, just to know, what happens if I set the jumpers too high for the CPU ? Will it just fry, or won't it start at all (but still be OK if I put the jumpers back to default ?)?

!-=sky=-!

08-02-01, 03:59 AM

it won't boot up or crashes/ BSOD in windows

SickBoy

08-02-01, 01:00 PM

I cracked open 2 Presario's, not sure which model #'s, but they were both K6-2 boxes.... the HSF's were permanently attached to the CPU!! How dumb!!

If you're wanting to try better cooling I suggest removing the CPU heat spreader (silver cap). By doing this you'll also be getting rid of the crappy HSF. I suggest you go out and get the biggest socket A HSF you can find. Most standard socket A HSF's should work, the chrome orb wont though.

SickBoy

!-=sky=-!

08-02-01, 01:50 PM

i think u should freeze the chip then put a plastic card in between the heatsink and cpu then use a flat head screwdriver to seperate it

that works in getting off geforce chipset coolers as they use glue or thermal tape to stick the heatsink to the gpu

minoukat

08-05-01, 03:58 AM

Sorry, it's still me, Alex, but I had to re-register (donno why !). Ok, so after I overclock this CPU, do I need to reformat the hard drive and reinstall Windows ? (cuz I heard some people that did this !)

Thanks, Alex !

wild_andy_c

08-05-01, 05:18 AM

Originally posted by [oc]SickBoy
I cracked open 2 Presario's, not sure which model #'s, but they were both K6-2 boxes.... the HSF's were permanently attached to the CPU!! How dumb!!

If you're wanting to try better cooling I suggest removing the CPU heat spreader (silver cap). By doing this you'll also be getting rid of the crappy HSF. I suggest you go out and get the biggest socket A HSF you can find. Most standard socket A HSF's should work, the chrome orb wont though.

SickBoy

Heatspreaders do a good job. One thing to so though is remove it, apply AS2 to the die cap and then re-attach the heatspreader.

Removing the heatspreader is a dodgy thing to do since the die of the K6 isn't as strong as that of a K7 core

minoukat

08-05-01, 05:23 AM

one question (no offense), but are you talking about desktop Compaq's, or laptops ?

Cuz, I have a desktop (just in case !)

minoukat

08-05-01, 05:37 AM

I just got some temps in MBM 5, and I don't think they are the right ones, because it showed my don't-know-what was at 51*C ! So how can I change it to some normal settings ?

Thanks

SickBoy

08-05-01, 07:13 PM

51 C is not an unreasonable temp for a K62... before I knew about good cooling and overclocking, my K62 ran around that area (idle!).

But I couldn't tell you for sure if that's the actual CPU temp.

hey wild andy, I had always heard from peeps that removed the K62 heat spreader that their temps dropped after they did... I guess I was under the impression that it did help. I think it's time for an experiment with my K62.

SickBoy

minoukat

08-05-01, 11:02 PM

Originally posted by [oc]SickBoy
51 C is not an unreasonable temp for a K62... before I knew about good cooling and overclocking, my K62 ran around that area (idle!).

SickBoy

Hey, sickboy, one strange thing is that my temps never change when I look at MBM 5 ! Is this normal ?

Alex

SickBoy

08-05-01, 11:12 PM

Originally posted by minoukat

Hey, sickboy, one strange thing is that my temps never change when I look at MBM 5 ! Is this normal ?

Alex

hmm... NEVER change? I dunno, that doesnt sound right. I wonder how exactly you'd need to set MBM up to get the correct temps. sometimes things on those OEM boards are a little strange. Can you get into your BIOS and see your temps in there?

eobard

08-06-01, 12:27 AM

My backup machine is a K6II 450 @550. Without increasing the voltage and still using the standard sink, with the aluminum cap still attached, I got to 500 no problem. After bumping the voltage from 2.2 to 2.5 or 2.6 I got to 550 but it wasn't 100% stable under full load. I took off the sink, which had a lot of epoxy or whatever on it so I had to lap it after, and removed the aluminum cap. It isn't the easiest thing to do. You have to put a lot of force into popping it off without damaging the surface of the chip. I did damage mine, fortunately my mistakes were only superficial and the chip still worked. Don't dig in too far towards the center of the chip, just cut away at the epoxy or whatever it is that holds the cap on at the for corners then pry up with something like a butter knife. Next I lapped both sides of a british pence because the copper is supposed to absorb the heat better than the aluminum sink. If you don't put something in between the chip and sink then you need to bend the clip to make up for the slack created by removing the aluminum cap. Then I put some thermal grease on the coin and the sink and put everything back together. I set the voltage to 2.5 and it now runs 100% stable at 550mhz. I should point out that from what I've read my getting a full 100mhz extra is an exception and not the rule. If you get 50mhz extra consider that a victory and don't forget to :)!

minoukat

08-06-01, 01:38 PM

Originally posted by [oc]SickBoy

Can you get into your BIOS and see your temps in there?

In the BIOS, which by the way is made by compaq, there is nothing that seems like a thermometre or anything ! All I see is the system information, then the security thing (password), then the IRQs, the onboard video controllers ... But nothing that tells the temps ! Maybe the program just doesn't work on my PC !

SickBoy

08-07-01, 08:22 AM

Well, for MBM to work, your motherboard has to have thermal monitoring capabilites. whether or not you get them with a Compaq (especially a socket 7 compaq) it's not guaranteed. I'd just say move on with your life. overclock and cool well, if things are problematic you'll know. (lockups and crashes)

SickBoy

minoukat

08-07-01, 09:52 AM

thanks for your help ! Now I'll try it, and you'll know if it didn't work, you won't see me for a time ! lol

menk

08-07-01, 10:11 AM

if you understand italian......
http://www.insanewb.com/RECENSIONI/NOSTRE/K62450_616/OC_K62_450_a_616.htm

minoukat

08-07-01, 11:45 AM

I did it !!!!! I acheived 500 MHz by upping the multiplier to 5, and I upped the vcore from 2.4 to 2.7. At 2.4@500MHz, it couldn'T post, at 2.5, had a keyboard error, at 2.6, once the windows logo passed, it restarted, and at 2.7, it entered windows, with some errors. I am currently writing this post at 500 MHz, donno the temps, but I touched the heatsink, and seemed pretty hot for me (but I can't compare, I didn't touch it before the overclock, plus it's with the compaq factory HSF). I've done my FIRST OVERCLOCK !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Is it normal that some programs produce errors while loading windows ? like vshine, something like that, I am not sure of the name !

And I tried to test the "new" PC with 3D Mark 99 (I have 64 MB of ram, but the system uses 4 MB for shared memory that I don't even use (old video card), and 2MB are lost for donno-what !), and it got me back to the desktop. Does this mean the processor is too hot, or that it doesn't have enough power ?

SickBoy

08-07-01, 12:31 PM

If your heatsink is so hot that you cant keep your finger on it for more than a half second or so, you're in the 55C + range. That's probably too hot. I'm gonna have to say you're going to need better cooling, as 2.7 volts is a heck of a lot of voltage to push through a K62. It's going to involve separating your chip from the factory HSF in some way and adding a better HSF. FOP32's are cheap and work well on socket 7, so I say "Pick one up!"

As far as 3DMark, I am not sure as I have never worked with 3DMark99. If you want to try out 3DMark 2K I know a little more about that. You'll need DX7 minimum, with DX7 certified drivers for your Voodoo. I'd also get WCPUID and use it to see what chipset you have - if you're on a Via chipset, get the latest 4 in 1's. If not Via, find chipset drivers for your chipset. Your scores in 3D2K should be in the 900-1500 range. Not stellar but as good as you're going to get on a socket 7 platform.

All in all I'd say cooling is definitely an issue for you and to make that first priority. K62's are hot little buggers and need a lot of cooling (moreso than P2's or P1's do) so I would say add a better HSF for sure and consider modding your case and putting a 80 MM in the side to circulate some air.

SickBoy

minoukat

08-07-01, 01:04 PM

I've put it back to 450, there were too many errors (my sister tried running visual basic, but it crashed, so I tried to shut down the pc, and it locked up with a dozen of "blue screen of death". I could keep my fingers more than that, so it wasn't THAT hot.

Are all the K6-2 heatsink/fans glued to the processors or is it just occasional ?

SickBoy

08-07-01, 01:13 PM

Umm... from what I've heard, retail boxed K62's came with the processor attached. With the Compaq's, it's probably a thing that they dont want you messing with it so they glued it all together.

OEM or "tray" processors come loose with no HSF. That's what mine was, apparently. I can't believe I paid $112 for that thing in December of 99. Unbelievable. I paid less for my 1 GHz TBird 3 weeks ago. And I only got 60 extra friggin megahertz out of it!

To seperate the processor from the HSF, put the whole unit in the freezer for about a half hour and them take it out and cut/pry the HSF off with a utility knife. That's how I got the silver cap off my K6-2 during my experimenting last nite. I'd recommend just taking off the HSF unit first. butlike I say, get a good HSF to replace it with, as well as some Arctic Silver or other good thermal grease.

SickBoy

eobard

08-07-01, 01:26 PM

If you leave the aluminum cap on you're gonna probably have to lap it. If yours is anything like mine you'll have a whole lot of epoxy or gule or whatever it is left on top of the cap. I'm running mine with the stock sink and fan at 551mhz stable. I popped off the cap, lapped the bottom of the sink and lapped both sides of a pence (British penny) to put between the cpu and the sink. Never forget the thermal compound.

minoukat

08-07-01, 01:35 PM

Well, I'll try taking off my HSF, to see if it's glued or not (just in case). I just wish Compaq puts better processors (not glued !!!) than they put hard drives in their computers ! (they put a 5.25 inch hard drive in mine, and the case doesn't even have a place to put it !!!)

minoukat

08-07-01, 01:36 PM

Originally posted by eobard
If you leave the aluminum cap on you're gonna probably have to lap it.

What do you mean by lapping ?

eobard

08-07-01, 03:50 PM

Lapping is sanding / polishing to the point of near-mirror finish. Get yourself a pictureframe or small mirror or some kind of sheet of glass for a smooth surface. Then you put sandpaper on it and then sand whatever surface needs lapping on top of the paper. You keep doing this with ever increasing fineness of sandpaper until you get a mirror-like finish. True lapping involves some kind of polishing stone or something at the end to get a true mirror finish. I don't take it that far personally and I don't think its absolutely required myself but it probably does help a bit. The idea is by flattening the surfaces then more contact is made and heat can be transfered from the chip to the sink more efficiently.

minoukat

08-07-01, 09:12 PM

Now, I got it stable at 2.8 volts ( a little too much !). So I need better cooling (touched the HSF, it was burning at full load !!!), and the processor is glued up with the HSF. Wouldn't it be cooler if I leaved the Heatsink, and just changed the fan on top of it for something better ?

Thanks

I'll try to hit 475 MHz, with 4.5*105MHz multiplier, or 5.0*95MHz FSB. Which one should I use ? If I use the 4.5*105, as I have PC100 Memory, will there be any problem with this 5 MHz upping ? (right now, with default settings, I have it at 100.25 MHz) The memory I use is made by Hunday (I think).

Thanks

eobard

08-07-01, 09:56 PM

2.8 is a lot. I found 2.7 to be so hot that I won't try 2.8. A better fan might help but You really should pop the aluminum cap and put a lapped sink on if you want better results. Doing that let me get a stabler overclock at a lower voltage. I don't suspect you'll have much shelf life in that chip at 2.8.

Lapping is a somewhat daunting prospect. I rushed through with a hideous job my first time. Just to teach me a lesson the machine refused to boot at anything over base clock speed. I re-did it, taking my time and not getting all tense about it, and things turned out great.

If you do decide to do this be careful removing ths sink from the cap and the cap from the chip. You need to be both gentle enough not to damage the chip and yet you really have to wrench those things apart. Its not for the timid. If you aren't willing to risk damaging the chip I say go with your idea of getting a better fan. I was willing because it was my backup computer so if I damaged it it wasn't going to be a big loss.

If better airflow is the route you are going to go you might want to round your cables. I don't suspect it ever helps a huge amount but its easy to do, costs almost nothing and doesn't hurt. If you haven't rounded cables before you don't actually have to splice them, you can just fold them to make sure you don't cut through the wires. I spliced my floppy and secondary cables but my primary IDE cable is an 80 wire cable and because I didn't have a replacement to fall back on I just folded it in on itself. Just fold the cables in on themselves like an acordian and then wrap them up iin electrical tape. A small, round tube of wire won't block airflow like a flat sheet ribbon cable can.

FRANK

08-07-01, 10:07 PM

If it hasn't been mentioned, don't forget that the 2X multiplier is recognized as 6X on the later and faster K6's. Here's a copy of a reply I made to another K6 thread;

>As a matter of fact there is a way to overclock those K6's to beyond the apparent maximum of your motherboard. At the end of the developement of the K6's, AMD revamped the processor to recognize the 2X multiplier as 6X on the later, faster CPU's. I've been successful doing this on a K6III+ 450 that I got to 616MHz.

Just make sure that you follow the generally accepted methods of overclocking to help insure success. A socket A hsf will fit the K6 line of CPU's, provided that you have adequate clearence.I've had good results with the Global Win FOP32. You will also probably have to increase the Vcore, I've gone to 2.7 with "regular" K6III's and 2.4 with the K6III+. If you can get a little more out of the FSB, go for it. I've gotten as high as 112MHz, again with a K6III+.

As mentioned in the above post, watch for the point of diminishing return on your investment, with the current price situation, that wouldn't be hard to do. Keep in mind that you will have a slower FSB than current as well as no support for the newer ATA 100 hard drives (nor ATA66 in most cases), slower memory, maybe no AGP etc.

Granted my experience has been primarily with the K6III's, I've read of similar results from people with the K6-2's.

Regardless of how high of a clockspeed you reach with the aging socket 7 platform, you will not, nor can you expect to achieve performance approaching the later socket A, nor Intel's socket 370 platforms. I know, I've been there.

I hope this helps

Good Luck.<

eobard

08-07-01, 10:33 PM

Originally posted by FRANK
If it hasn't been mentioned, don't forget that the 2X multiplier is recognized as 6X on the later and faster K6's.

Yeah but he's got to get to 5.5 stable before he can go for 6.0. Personally I'm not optomistic he'll get 6.0, most people with a 450mhz chip can't. My system will post 6.0 but locks trying to boot 98. Mind you come winter I'm gonna put my machine on the balcony, strip it down to just a vid card and a minimal hard drive setup, put 133mhz memory in it and shoot for 800!!! Just to see if it can be done. :)

minoukat

08-08-01, 01:02 AM

Originally posted by eobard
If you do decide to do this be careful removing ths sink from the cap and the cap from the chip. You need to be both gentle enough not to damage the chip and yet you really have to wrench those things apart.

Just to know (I might unglue or whatever it is the CPU from the HSF), is the aluminium cap part of the processor, or can it be scrached (top surface) without any danger ? And, did anybody already successfully take off (unglue) the processor from the heatsink of a compaq ?

Thanks

eobard

08-08-01, 01:40 AM

The aluminum cap is not part of the processor. When you pry the sink from the cap it is ok to scratch the top of the cap. If you leave it on you'll need to lap it smooth however. I really don't see the point of removing the sink but not the cap unless you are definately putting a different sink on. Taking off the sink, lapping the sink and cap and then putting the same sink back on really won't do much. If you are putting a better sink on then you will need to either lap the cap or remove it entirely. If you remove it you should cut away at the glue that holds the cap on at the corners. Don't dig too deeply towards the center of the cpu or you could gouge the actual core or the surface resistors. I did that to mine but fortunately the damage, while substantial looking, was only superficial. The main thing to do is stay relaxed and be vigorously gentle when removing the sink and / or cap. How do you be "vigorously gentle"? Pray for good fortune and listen to everyone's 2 cents on how they did it before you try yourself.

brennan77

08-08-01, 01:42 AM

Seriously, you're gonna damage the chip at that voltage without better cooling. Believe me, I killed 2 K6-III chips!

I wouldn't even push her past 2.5v

minoukat

08-08-01, 03:06 PM

I read somewhere that K6-2s 450MHz with 2.4 volts are only some 400MHz chips overclocked ! Is that true or only a thing said to say something ?

eobard

08-08-01, 03:48 PM

Originally posted by minoukat
I read somewhere that K6-2s 450MHz with 2.4 volts are only some 400MHz chips overclocked ! Is that true or only a thing said to say something ?

I'm not sure what you mean with that last sentence but looking at an insert that I got with my chip it says that all K6II and K6III's from 400 - 500mhz run off a core voltage of 2.2 except the K6III 400 which runs off 2.4.

minoukat

08-08-01, 03:52 PM

Originally posted by eobard

...all K6II and K6III's from 400 - 500mhz run off a core voltage of 2.2 except the K6III 400 which runs off 2.4.

Weirdly, mine is a 450 and the core voltage was set factory to 2.4v !

SickBoy

08-08-01, 04:07 PM

Did you get the factory hsf off?

SickBoy

minoukat

08-08-01, 04:12 PM

Not yet. I'm just scared of what could happen if I do it wrong ! Cuz this pc is the best one I have, so I'll try looking for another CPU of same power before, so if I break this one, I could use one with another CPU !

SickBoy

08-08-01, 04:18 PM

A K6-2 500 is cheap off of pricewatch. I say order one up along with a good HSF unit and set your old one aside. But seriously, all these little things add up eventually and you're going to eventually have spent enough to pay for a whole new system, or at least a gutting of your current one.

SickBoy

minoukat

08-08-01, 04:49 PM

do you know any canadian sites or stores from where I could get one ? All the cheapest 500 MHz I've seen are only selling or shipping to USA ! (and I live in canada !)

Thanks

eobard

08-08-01, 06:10 PM

I can think of several places in the GTA if you live anywhere near Toronto. Go to your local public library, if its anything like mine then every month they'll have free copies of several computer newspapers that have little in the way of articles but a lot of ads for Canadian computer stores. Many computer stores that I've been in also carry them. Look for the names "The Computer Paper", "We Compute" or "Canada Computes" There are also others if you live in certain major cities. The cheapest I've seen a new, surplus K6II advertized in the GTA was $59 Canadian for a 450mhz. I've seen used chips advertized for less. The problem is availability. Socket 7 is a dead line and so you really have to look to get a decent price because there aren't many left floating around. Also you can get a Duron for almost the same price and get 1.5 - 2 times the performance but for that you'd need a new board (and case, possibly power supply and memory too).

I suggest asking people you know who have computer experience if they have ever used a K6II and try to find someone who has already popped their sink and cap off so you can look at the pieces after its been disassembled. Once you see one pulled apart you get a better appreciation of what would be required in disassembling your own.

eobard

08-08-01, 07:32 PM

Here's a little diagram I threw together for you. It shows basically what you'll see if you pop the cap off. Now I've never seen the setup inside of a Compaq, Usually I prefer shoebox technology myself, but I'm assuming the chip and fan assembly is the same as my box set that I bought was. If so your chip will be like the photo below. The circles on the corner are what you have to cut through. If you dig in too deep with your knife then you could tear up the surface resistors or scratch up the core. You don't want to do either so if you try to cut through the epoxy on the corners take your time and don't dig deep towards the center of the processor. If you cur away the epoxy on each corner then the should only be a little bit of some kind of sealant around the core that will be holding the cap on. When you get down to that it should be easy to pull it off. The epoxy on the corners is very tough to cut through, you need to put a good amount of force into it but remember that digging deep towards the core won't help any, the glue is only at the corners. And make sure you don't bend any of the chips pins!

You might want to seperate the cap from the chip first because digging at the space between the cap and the sink is a lot harder (or at least it was for me). Once the chip has been removed you can tear away at the sink and cap all you want. The cap is a throwaway at that point so who cares if you damage it. As for the sink you're gonna have to lap the bottom of it anyhow so a little bit of scratching won't matter.

minoukat

08-09-01, 11:53 AM

I already posted this question, but I want to get as many info I can get so, after taking off the cap, should I put it back ?

SickBoy

08-09-01, 11:56 AM

No, as it will most likely be bent. Bent = useless for anything outside of a neat wall decoration. Mine was not terribly bent but bent enough after I took it off.

SickBoy

eobard

08-09-01, 12:52 PM

Taking it off just to put it back on would be self defeating. If you don't want to remove it then when you seperate the sink from the cap just lap the top of the cap as flat as you can.

If you do take off the cap then you'll need to do something to pick up the slack created by its absence. You'll need to either bend the clip to cause the sink to be held closer to the chip core or put something in between the core and the sink. I lapped a pence on both sides and put that between. I did it because just bending the retension clip made putting the sink back on a lot more difficult. Also the pence was copper which is better than the aluminum sink for getting heat out of the core. Some companies make aluminum sinks with a copper bottom, I kind of made my own.

minoukat

08-09-01, 02:55 PM

Originally posted by eobard
... put something in between the core and the sink. I lapped a pence on both sides and put that between. I did it because just bending the retension clip made putting the sink back on a lot more difficult. Also the pence was copper which is better than the aluminum sink for getting heat out of the core. Some companies make aluminum sinks with a copper bottom, I kind of made my own.

What should I put between the chip and the HS ? ( I don't have any pence or ...)

Thanks

SickBoy

08-09-01, 03:24 PM

See if your HSF will seat properly first - if it will, just bend the clip to put a little extra tension on the chip as you lost some when you removed the cap. Otherwise copper or silver stock of 2 to 3 MM thickness should work. samuknow is sending me some copper stock since I cant find any around here and I'm going to use AS Epoxy to permanently attach it to the HSF.

SickBoy

eobard

08-09-01, 05:04 PM

If you want to try your hand at lapping then lapping a copper coin is a good place to start. Practicing on a coin will let you perfect your technique without risking your computer at all. Coins are small and hard to get a grip on for lapping so what I did was put a blob of hot gluegun glue on the other side to give me something to grip. Working with such a small piece will make working with your sink later seem easier. Just get a mirror or picture frame, several different grits of sandpaper and a copper coin. Use one from a different country just to make sure you aren't comitting a felony by defacing currency. The reason I used a British pence is because it's a bit wider than a penny and so a little bit easier to grip while sanding. Put the coarsest paper on the mirror or picture frame, Put a small lump of glue on the coin and then sand the coin by rubbing on the paper in a circular fashion, using finer and finer grits of paper, until all of the features have been removed and it shines brightly. Then take the glue off and glue the finished side so you can lap the unfinished side.

If and when you get around to lapping your sink I advise you do it outside and wash your hands when finished. Aluminum dust is not a good thing to inhale.

minoukat

08-10-01, 01:34 AM

thanks eobard !

Today I went to a shop (called OEM Express), and they were selling K6-2s still in box, new, 500 MHz. The reason I didn't buy one is $$$$$ ..... It costed 79 $ At that price I could buy an old cheap Duron that would be more performant !

So, I'll try the cap-lap-takeoff thing on mine. I'll combine the diagram you sent with the freezer trick !

brennan77

08-10-01, 01:47 AM

$79 for a K6-2. WOW, that's alot. I got mine today for $39 which seems kinda pricey until you factor in the 1 year warranty instead of the DOA warranty of other places.

eobard

08-10-01, 02:12 AM

Actually $79 isn't all that much if that price is being quoted in Canadian dollars. That works out to almost 50 cents american. Still it isn't a cost effective purchase given the cost of a Duron is probably only about 10 - 15 dollars more for 2 - 3 times the performance.

Take your time when pulling the thing apart. No need to rush your way hacking through like I did mine. I got lucky that the damage to my chip was only superficial.

-=UR=- Ranger

08-10-01, 09:40 AM

A higher FSB is always faster....
So, 105x? would be faster than 95x?...!
I don't think 105 Mhz should be a Problem for any Part of your System...Only the CPU seems to be a litte critical for me, but it should work. Quality Ram can mostly stand much higher speeds.
My no-name Ram PC 100 Ram did 128 Mhz no problems..
Good luck, and always remember, that most of us started like this..

SickBoy

08-10-01, 02:01 PM

Yeah an extra but if FSB would be good but the problem is his Compaq board likely only supports up to 100 MHz FSB speeds. These things really arent designed to be overclocked or tweaked with.

Hey, what's an attainable speed for this Pentium 166 chip I have laying around? I've been thinking about throwing it in my MVP3G2 which can pump a lot of voltage through it, and using an FOP32 for cooling just to see what I can do with my **ONE AND ONLY** Intel chip.

If I could do something like get 133 MHz FSB x 1 multiplier that would be kinda cool... highest FSB overclock ever for a P1...

SickBoy

minoukat

08-10-01, 02:06 PM

Originally posted by [oc]SickBoy
Yeah an extra but if FSB would be good but the problem is his Compaq board likely only supports up to 100 MHz FSB speeds. These things really arent designed to be overclocked or tweaked with.

My board supports much more than 100MHz, I think it would go 'till 133MHz FSB or so!

SickBoy

08-10-01, 02:08 PM

Originally posted by minoukat

My board supports much more than 100MHz, I think it would go 'till 133MHz FSB or so!

What speeds does it support? Going from a 100 MHz setting directly to 133 does you little good. The Via MVP3 chipset is not capable of a /4 PCI divisior so realistically, you're looking at a max usable FSB setting of like 112-115 or so.

SickBoy

minoukat

08-10-01, 02:18 PM

The chipset on the Mobo isn't VIA, it's SIS 530, with integrated graphics. It's not so powerful, but supports a maximum of 133.3 MHz FSB, and a minimum (not important, but...) of 66.6MHz.

SickBoy

08-10-01, 02:23 PM

I was looking for specific speeds it supports - e.g. 105, 112, 117, 124, etc...

SickBoy

minoukat

08-10-01, 02:31 PM

Specific speeds in MHz (from compaq support page) :
- 66.8
- 75
- 83.3
- 90
- 95.25
- 100.0
- 100.2 (my default position)
- 105
- 112
- 124
- 133.3

SickBoy

08-10-01, 02:35 PM

Okay - you're probably looking at usable FSB speeds of 95, 100, 100.2, 105, and 112. Combinations of these and your multiplier will provide those between speeds such as 475 MHz. 112 might be pushing the limits of your IDE and PCI devices, though.

Sickboy

eobard

08-10-01, 04:25 PM

Knowing K6's I don't think you're gonna get to 133. My machine complains at 112! You should get 105 and maybe 112 but I can't see 133.

minoukat

08-10-01, 05:32 PM

OK, just checked, if I try 4*133MHz = 533.??. Now, I want to know if a ram speed of 88MHz would be good ?

Thanks

FRANK

08-10-01, 05:32 PM

I have to agree with "eobard". In my experience overclocking a handful of the K6III's, I've only come across one that would do 112MHz FSB. I never tried removing the cap though. I have read that it does make a difference, combine that with a good cooling solution and you may have the ticket.

Once again, watch how deep you get into that platform. It's real easy to get caught up in it and invest too much money in an outdated platform. Try to make your upgrades with an eye toward the future, good PC133 RAM, good socket A hsf etc. This way you'll have an easier transition to the socket A platform when the time comes.

Good Luck!

eobard

08-10-01, 05:59 PM

Originally posted by minoukat
OK, just checked, if I try 4*133MHz = 533.??. Now, I want to know if a ram speed of 88MHz would be good ?

Thanks

If you set the memory back to match the AGP speed instead of the fsb your memory will work at 88mhz but I would consider that too much of a loss. Your gains in cpu speed will be eaten up by your loss on the memory. Also your pci will be running at 44mhz, that's too high, your pci cards probably won't hold. I'd take the 105 fsb and have the memory match, it's a 5% gain system wide. I wish my socket 7 board had a 105 fsb setting, mine jumps from 100 to 112.

minoukat

08-10-01, 09:33 PM

well, my board, with 124 and 133 MHz FSB, has a 4 divider !

Here's the info I copied from the Compaq web site

Multiplier Settings
3.5X
2.0X
3.0X
2.5X
5.5X
4.0X
5.0X
4.5X

Voltage Settings
CPU Vcore
1.80V
1.85V
1.90V
1.95V
2.00V
2.05V
NO CPU
2.1V
2.2V
2.3V
2.4V
2.5V
2.6V
2.7V
2.8V
2.9V
3.0V
3.1V
3.2V
3.3V
3.4V
3.5V

FSB Settings
CPU SDRAM PCI
90 90 CPU/3
83.3 55.53 CPU/2.5
95.25 63.5 CPU/3
66.8 100 CPU/2
105 105 CPU/3
112 74.67 CPU/3
124 82.67 CPU/4
133.3 88.9 CPU/4
66.8 66.8 CPU/2
75 75 CPU/2.5
83.3 83.3 CPU/2.5
95.25 95.25 CPU/3
100.2 100.2 CPU/3
112 112 CPU/3
100.0 66.8 CPU/3
90 60 CPU/3

minoukat

08-10-01, 09:35 PM

eobard

08-10-01, 10:09 PM

Double post! That a $10 penalty ($15 Canadian) I'll tell you where to send the check later. ;)

With those choices I'd be willing to give 133 by 88 by cpu/4 a test under SiSoft Sandra 2001 to see if it gave better overall results than 105 by 105 by cpu/3. That's a good set of options you have.

SickBoy

08-11-01, 09:05 AM

I don't think any Super 7 chipsets are capable of a /4 PCI divisor...

I know my Epox complains at anything over 112 FSB. Weird things start happening - CD's wont burn, HDD performance goes way, way down, etc...

SickBoy

eobard

08-11-01, 10:50 AM

Originally posted by [oc]SickBoy
I don't think any Super 7 chipsets are capable of a /4 PCI divisor...
SickBoy

I didn't think so either, especially coming from a middle of the road, play the safety, "let's not take a leap and innovate" company like Compaq. Still if that's what his doco says then that's what it says. Hopefully that's accurate info on Compaq's part and not just a typo or wishfull thinking from one of their techies.

minoukat

08-11-01, 08:15 PM

Originally posted by eobard
With those choices I'd be willing to give 133 by 88 by cpu/4 a test under SiSoft Sandra 2001 to see if it gave better overall results than 105 by 105 by cpu/3.

How can I test the CPU ?

eobard

08-11-01, 10:18 PM

Go to http://www.sisoftware.co.uk/sandra and download Sandra 2001. Install it and you'll have a very complete and diverse benchmarking suite. It will have options for benchmarking the cpu, memory, optical drives, hard drives, just about everything. Run the diagnostics with the board settings at 133 by 88 by fsb/4 and write down the results. Then set the board to 105 by 105 by fsb/3. Test any combos you want and compare the results. It also has a burn in utility that will let you test if your chip will run at a certain speed. It puts a good amount of stress on the chip and so is more likely to cause a lockup than much normal use if there is a problem.

Tyranos

08-12-01, 02:12 AM

CPU SDRAM PCI

100 100 33.4 on on off off
112 112 37.3 off on off off
124 124 31 on off off off
133 133 33.3 off off off off

Here are some options compaq have for my cpu and mother board. I have a k6II 500 @550... how do you think my system would be if i tried on of the two higher fbs? 133 133 33.3?

minoukat

08-12-01, 02:12 AM

ok, I'll try to OC again tomorrow (sunday east hour )

But thanks for the quick answers !;)

minoukat

08-12-01, 02:15 AM

eobard

08-12-01, 11:19 AM

Originally posted by Tyranos
CPU SDRAM PCI

100 100 33.4 on on off off
112 112 37.3 off on off off
124 124 31 on off off off
133 133 33.3 off off off off

Here are some options compaq have for my cpu and mother board. I have a k6II 500 @550... how do you think my system would be if i tried on of the two higher fbs? 133 133 33.3?

It would be horrible! It might even be horrible at 112 112 37.3. The reason being that you are using 100 speed memory. If you had 133 then possibly. I'd try bumping the multiple first. Set it to 2.0 and keep your fsb at 100mhz. That will give you 600 mhz without stressing anything other than the chip itself. If it doesn't hold I'd bump the voltage up a bit. Move it up by .1v at a time but don't go past 2.7. If it's good then I'd try 112 X 5.5. If it's not then I'd try 112 X 5.0. That would give you 560mhz instead of your current 550 with the whole machine running faster, not just the chip.

Tyranos

08-13-01, 01:35 AM

I tried putting the multi at 2.0, and when I turned on the power, the monitor didn't turn on, and I could not turn the system off with the switch. Plus, compaq has my system built strangely. Its like a mix of presario 7300 and 7400. I have the 7400 motherboard, but I have to use 7300 settings like multi and voltage, BUT when I try to change the fsb, it doesn't work. I tried a 105mhz fsb setting from the 7300 diagram, which did the same thing when I put the multi at 2.0. When I look at the 7400 diagram, it shows fsb speeds from 66 to only 100! :( What the hell.

eobard

08-13-01, 02:06 PM

Ah the joys of buying a "cookie cutter", off the rack computer from one of the big corporate machines! I don't know what to suggest next. I've never taken a good look at a Compaq.

minoukat

08-13-01, 03:21 PM

OK, got it stable at 4*112, vcore at 2.6 volts. Couldn't boot it at 4.5*112, unless I put the voltage to 2.8 !
Here's a sandra pic, at 112 fsb

c:\my documents\althi\untitled.bmp

eobard

08-13-01, 03:28 PM

Your picture didn't make it through. Try to post it again please.

minoukat

08-13-01, 03:31 PM

Originally posted by eobard
Your picture didn't make it through. Try to post it again please.

Sorry, didn't put the extension first time !;)

minoukat

08-13-01, 03:39 PM

and here's a pic of sandra at default everything (4.5*100*2.4v)

c:\my documents\althi\untitled1.bmp

eobard

08-13-01, 04:08 PM

I'm still not seeing it. What format of image are you trying to post?

minoukat

08-13-01, 04:15 PM

it's a bitmap image. Pretty weird !!! Well, I just tried 4*133.3, even at 2.8v didn't post correctly ! Tryied something lower, 4*124, posted, booted, everything stable (currently writing at that speed, 500MHz).

Tyranos

08-13-01, 04:42 PM

lol... you should upload the file to a web server. Linking to your harddrive doesn't work very well. ;)

minoukat

08-13-01, 05:01 PM

Well, if you can't see the pics, I'll just write the results ! ( I don'T know any web server!)

ok, at 4*124*2.8 (currently)
Dhrystone ALU 1155 MIPS
Whetstone FPU 571 MFLOPS

at 4.5*100*2.4
Dhrystone ALU 975 MIPS
Whetstone FPU 525 MFLOPS

at 4*112*2.6
Dhrystone ALU 1019 MIPS
Whetstone FPU 525 MFLOPS

I don't know what they are, but that'S what was saying the picture !

eobard

08-13-01, 05:36 PM

MIPS is Million Instructions Per Second.

MFLOPS is Million FLoating point Operations Per Second (or something close to that).

In both cases the higher the better so if 4*124*2.8 holds, and you don't mind sitting at 2.8v which is close to the edge in my opinion, then stay with that.

minoukat

08-13-01, 05:40 PM

anyway, it's still with the default heatsink and still has the aluminium cap on, so when I'll take it off, and put a better hsf on, the voltage should go down !

BTW, got it stable at 4.5*105*2.5, which is has MIPS and and MFLOPS higher than 4*112*2.6.

it has 1094 MIPS
and 552 MFLOPS

actually, not completely stable, since I can't open the motherboard information thing in SANDRA (but maybe it's stable, cuz I didn't try it at default !)

eobard

08-13-01, 05:54 PM

Run the burn in wizard and check mark only the cpu test and then let it run for half an hour. That will give you a good idea of the sability. If it locks up you'll know because the little flame thingie will stop moving. Make sure you disable the power management so the whole system is drawing power and generating heat the whole half hour.