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Results of the BeCooling prototype

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Diggrr

Underwater Senior Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2001
Well, I got the results of my informal testing between my slit-edge and the prototype block, but first I'd like to "frame the picture" so to speak.

My system is different than most, my ViaAqua pump is in a reservior box on the wall, and my heatercore is in the basement below where the temps are chilly all year long (thus temps you don't usually see).

To make the field as level as I could without an official test rig, I didn't remove the cpu once from the socket (that's where the temps are measured), and I even used the same top on each block (1/2" poly fittings), so flow never changed except within the block's layout. Ambient remained the same at the heatercore the whole time, all done the same day.

The two blocks were recieved unfinished, and I do not know what the intended base thickness would be when it's released.
I lapped both blocks from how they were when I recieved them, using a new set of paper for each (220, 320, 400, 600, 2000 grits) roughly equal times and finish qualities (couldn't tell them apart when upside-down) and cleaned them with acetone before testing. I use a 3/8" piece of tempered mirror for a surface.

Now the results for MY system.
BeCooling Slit-edge: idle 25C Load max 27.5C Load average 26.8C
BeCooling prototype: idle 24C Load max 26.5C Load average 25.5C
As a reference to what I normally see, my Gemini low-flow runs 27C idle and 30 load.

For the load scores I ran Sandra burn's arithmatic and multi-media benchmarks and SuperPi (16M) for 1 hour simultaneously.
I left any normal (to my system) background programs running too.

So, it beats my slit-edge waterblock by a degree, and is slated to cost under $40 (according to Brian at BeCooling).>shameless link<

Hope ya'll enjoyed my work! Any questions?
Almost forgot, I don't work for BeCooling or represent them in any way, and I paid for both blocks.
 
What, no one else wants to comment? 1-1.5C difference on a low flow system with 12 feet of tubing?

Maybe I'll reconfigure a bit more to be like your systems....goodbye cool temps....sniff.
 
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so what If Im not;)

Its good to see that the design worked pretty well, and that you were able to see that much of a difference.

Did you by chance measure the base plate thickness?

Jon
 
Well, after interrogation, my wife cracked and admitted she put my micrometers away for me. Where "away" is, she hasn't remembered as yet.
She needs more pressure and less money, that'll jog her memory.. or maybe the promise to buy a new digital pair :D

Anyway, the block was recieved as a prototype in unfinished form, I've e-mailed Brian to find if had a figure in mind for the final thickness, or I may shave off .050" and try again to see if it's helping any. It does seem fairly thick as is.

My scale says it's about 5/32"
 
But can you just check how thick is whole block and then how deep it is? Difference - thickness of base. Using "house equipement", you can check it with accuracy of about 1/20mm.
 
My machinist's scale (certified) doesn't have milimeters, but doing the math it works out to 3.97mm or so.

5 / 32 * 25.4 = 3.97
 
Well, this block really is an interesting item you have there. Did you lap your Becooling slitedge to the same level as the prototype block? It may be sort of unfair if you tested your custom lapping vs stock retail base machining lol....just checking if that was the case.
 
Diggrr said:
The two blocks were recieved unfinished, and I do not know what the intended base thickness would be when it's released.
I lapped both blocks from how they were when I recieved them, using a new set of paper for each (220, 320, 400, 600, 2000 grits) roughly equal times and finish qualities (couldn't tell them apart when upside-down) and cleaned them with acetone before testing. I use a 3/8" piece of tempered mirror for a surface.

Nope, I took great pains to make sure they were lapped the same. It took two days before I was satisfied.
Autozone had packs of 3M paper in variety packs, one pack for each, plus I bought the pack of 2000 grit to finish them off nicely.
 
hehe, world would be easier when all ppl used metric units :)
I don't remember what's this tool name in English, but basically you could use it - L-shaped metal thing with scale on which you move other part and read lengths, capable of measuring length, holes' width & depth, rarely with micrometer; typical accuracy 1/10 or 1/20mm. I really did my best to tell what I was thinking about :D
 
That's a caliper that you're describing. The battery is dead in mine (Mitutoyo digital) that's why I was looking for my micrometers, that's the old style with the vernier scale and no batteries. :D

I prefer the metric scale myself, but so many things here are in the old english units. The math alone makes the metric system worth it.
 
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