RIT whitener & brightener users...

[Soja]

Those of you that are using RIT as a uv dye, are you getting any foam? I bought a bottle of the liquid stuff and it foams a lot when shaken so I'm reluctant to add any to my loop. After a pinesol enema that created foam that took hrs to get rid of I've developed a phobia of foam :(

[SK8]

dude just get a highlighter crack it open and put a lil in your loop it does wonders! Rit is pretty much guarentted to stain tube b/c its a concentrated dye

[eXCeSS]

Sk8, but with that, i dont think the RIT stuff is green, and AFAIK, the only hilighter that is uv is the yellow one, which gives a green color,

if i recall correctly, the rit stuff is blue.

[SK8]

well , the rit dye im thinkin of comes in a rainbow of cloours and u can use diff highlighters such as orange or pink

[Soja]

Yes, RIT glows blue which is what I was looking for. Orange and pink highlighter will barely glow at all. Also, highlighter will also stain tubing (clearflex anyway). I've used yellow for a good 5 months and after a flush most of the tubing is stained with a tint of green although still clear.

[E-Licious]

So a yellow highlighter will glow green under UV light? What about under normal light? Is it yellow then?

[MoreGooder]

Originally posted by Soja
After a pinesol enema that created foam that took hrs to get rid of I've developed a phobia of foam :(

OUCHY! Pine Sol enema, eh? I think I'd rather shove toothpicks under my fingernails.

I've been interested in the Rit Whitener and Brightener too. I'd like an even more intense blue that what my blue VW antifreeze does. It's only extremely light blue, and if I add a whole lot of it my temps go up of course. So, I'm stuck with this light blue.

Now, I recall a while back that someone had a tc-4 block that had been destroyed by corrosion. There was an inconclusive debate as to if the RIT caused it. Anyone care to add more information to this?

[Soja]

Good looking out. The corroded tc-4 block is an important issue as well. ^Bump

[Realgun]

Well I have used the Rit Whitner and brightner for about 8 months no issue with staining and the foam goes away very fast.

Matter O'fact I have only distilled water and Rit and I have no growth of any sort either.
This is 3-4 drops in about a quart of distilled water.The Blue stuff (http://www.geocities.com/rgsorcerer1/Page6.html)
The Block was an EVO but I upgraded the the Danger Den RTX and an AMD64 3000+. The Evo block was black inside but never hurt the colling. The cooling was the same from day 1 till I retired it.

[MoreGooder]

Originally posted by Realgun
Well I have used the Rit Whitner and brightner for about 8 months no issue with staining and the foam goes away very fast.

Matter O'fact I have only distilled water and Rit and I have no growth of any sort either.
This is 3-4 drops in about a quart of distilled water.The Blue stuff (http://www.geocities.com/rgsorcerer1/Page6.html)
The Block was an EVO but I upgraded the the Danger Den RTX and an AMD64 3000+. The Evo block was black inside but never hurt the colling. The cooling was the same from day 1 till I retired it.

That looks great!
I have a few questions for you:

Did the RIT stain your tubing?

Do you think the black stain was from the RIT or was it corrosion? 8 months really isn't very long. You could have had corrosion in process, expecially without any sort of corrosion inhibitor mixed in with the RIT.

Did you have any aluminum in your loop?

Thanks!

[MoreGooder]

Interesting tid-bit. No laundry detergent additive will remove the aluminum and zinc salt stains caused by deoderant.



Deodorant: Apply liquid detergent; washin warm water. Aluminum or zinc salt buildup from deodorants may be impossible to remove.

Stain Removal (http://www.extension.iastate.edu/Publications/PM858.pdf)

Perhaps RIT doesn't impact metals since it isn't listed as a cure for this stain. That's a serious stretch of the information provided, but it's a clue nonetheless.

[Realgun]

Actually it was a year and I noticed the black from the anodized aluminum top a month into water cooling. The middle area was ok but the exits were(are) black hope this helps. The New RTX has a clear top and from the 2 weeks I have had it is starting to turn dark however the coolling is the same. I have no res but the tubing from home depot is still pretty clear. I have two UV tubes also.

[Chaos Snake]

I felt that I should pop in and say something as it was my Al top that got ate. There is still no proof that the Whiter and Brighter is the cause of that nightmare, but I would be very very carefull. I decided to give up on haveing the blue UV running in my tubes and jsut went for strait old Anti-freeze and Distilled water. Much to my suprise it came out a great glowing green. If your realy pushing for the blue though I rember reading somewere about some Anti-freeze for VW and Volvo (I think) that comes in a blue color. If blue is what you need, that would be the best choice.

[rmonster]

Thought I'd add my experience, fwiw. I've been using the Rit W&B for about a year, along with water wetter and distilled water. I'm running a Cascade cpu block and a Dtek al-topped chipset block on the northbridge.

A little goes a long way with the Rit: I'm only using about a capful in a gallon and a half of the distilled/ww mix, and it still shows up well under UV after about a year.

I've not seen any negative reactions due to using the Rit that I'm able to find... No foaming or corrosion that I've seen so far, although the use of ww might be counteracting reactions seen by others.

[MoreGooder]

Yeah, I use VW antifreeze which is a very light blue.

I was thinking of doing a controlled experiment using RIT, VW blue Antifreeze, distilled water, some aluminum bits, some anodized aluminum bits and copper coins (pennys) all in one container.

Group 1:
1 cup solution: 25% AF, one cap full of RIT , the rest distilled water.
1 piece each of Al, Cu and Anodized Al.

Group 2:
1 cup solution: 25% AF , the rest distilled water.
1 piece each of Al, Cu and Anodized AL.

Group 3:
1 cup solution: One cap full of RIT, the rest distilled water.
1 piece each of Al, Cu and Anodized Al.

The "containers" would be sections of Clearflex 60 tubing sealed off by using a barb fitting that has barbs on each end. This will determine the impact of the various ingredients on the tubing itself.

So, what do you guys think? Good experiment? Should I use something besides antifreeze? I can use the blue VW antifreeze, which would be a great experiment for me personally, but for most folks this isn't what they have on hand. Suggestions?

I'll also need some sort of way to get small pieces of anodized aluminum. I was thinking of using those small ram chip coolers that you stick on. I have one in my hand now. Problem is that it's pretty big. I'd have to go with some large ID tubing for the experiment. For the non-anodized Al I would go with chunks of metal off of an old stock Intel HS.

[Soja]

Are penny's made of full copper? Maybe for group 3 just Cu and Anoidized AL?

[MoreGooder]

Originally posted by Soja
Are penny's made of full copper? Maybe for group 3 just Cu and Anoidized AL?

Yes, you're right! *duh* They just have a thick copper plating. I'll simply use a chunk of copper pipe from Home Depot then.

So, what do you think of the experiment design, Soja?

[Soja]

Sounds good but shouldn't we expect group 3 to have some corrosion occuring anyway?

[MoreGooder]

Originally posted by Soja
Sounds good but shouldn't we expect group 3 to have some corrosion occuring anyway?

Yes we should. That's the control group. Without it one wouldn't know if the test was conducted long enough to prove anything.

[Soja]

Oh that make sense. Anyway, I decided to add half a cap of RIT to my loop and it glows quite nicely without any bubbles since it was so little I guess. No reactions with AF since I don't use any but hopefully it doesn't react with the erythromycin :-/

[MoreGooder]

I ordered some blue UV reactive dye from someone on Ebay. $8.95 including shipping. I think I'll try that before spending so much time on such a lenghty experiment.

[xgman]

Can I mix a small amount of the rit white & brite "powder" version with just enough distilled water to disolve it, and then add a small amount? Any suggestions on how much?

[MoreGooder]

Originally posted by xgman
Can I mix a small amount of the rit white & brite "powder" version with just enough distilled water to disolve it, and then add a small amount? Any suggestions on how much?

I think the stock answer for RIT w/b should be "Use at your own risk" until we see some real data on it's impact. I'm just unwilling to spend time and money on this since there is a viable and safe alternative (UV dye).

[Realgun]

I think I better tell you people the Black stuff I saw was from the top of the Anodized EVO. The new RTX block has no Black I was looking at it with no light and it looks black. It has been 2 weeks.

[Soja]

What is the black stuff (snapshots?) and do you mean rbx (brass top or lucite)?

[Realgun]

The black is the anodized finish that flaked from the top. I have a lucite toped RBX.

[Soja]

So there is also black stuff on the lucite top?

[Realgun]

No there is no black it is still the copper color. I just thought it was as there was no lights on when I was looking at it, inside the case. Sorry bout that.

[Soja]

Oh I see. Thank god because I thought I was in the clear for using an all copper block until you said the same black stuff was forming on your rbx.

[mrnuke]

no foam, just stains the tubing pretty good:(

[Soja]

What kind of tubing are you using mrnuke? What color does stain the tubing?

[FizzledFiend]

I truely appologize for the blurriness of this image (first time useing camera)
http://home.earthlink.net/~foxroshak/images/tower/PICT0003.JPG
anyways as you can see there is EXTENSIVE corrosion here..along with scaleing and flaking.

Now sense I was prety much ignorant when i started WC i mad very noobish mistakes. I used softend water not distilled I was adding chemicals unchecked and un documented. I used windshield washer fluid, Pro-Blend coolers 20 below, water wetter, Rit whitner & Brightner. I was also replaceing water with softend water not distilled...again alot of stupid mistakes. now that i have redone my system http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?s=&postid=2415181#post2415181
I have went with 4 pase reverse osmosis water 99.99% pure H2O I am going to assume this is the purpose of distilled water to be rid of minerals and nasties...this should work.

I can not lay blame to the rit dye for the corrosion in fact I now have it running in this system only been about a month though...no buildup like i was getting before and everything is documented and measured...I can only say before it was dump in with no regaurds to negative effcts. I am now enjoying the nice blue glow ith a "pinch" of the rit dye in about 3 gallons of water...a little goes a long long way!