The CustomSeaLife Velocity 1 Pump, and it's heat output

A while ago I posted a thread asking for advice on a new waterpump for the larger circuit I am planning on building, and I got some great advice (thanks guys!).

The advice was very mixed however, but I finally settled on the CustomSeaLife Velocity One Pump - a pump which many (most!) of you said was a really stupid choice due to it's (98W) power consumption.

Well, I ordered it for two reasons - to do some very primitive testing on it's heat output, and to see how it does for me, my being able to return it and get another pump being an option if my results are not satisfactory (I don't plan to void the warranty, or do anything stupid to it). Not being one to ignore advice, I may still settle for an Iwaki 20 or 30.

The purpose of this post is to ask if anyone has an idea of just *how* I can do some "pump heat" testing on it that will be comparable to similar testing with another pump, my having only the pump, a thermal probe that can measure water temnperature, and a room where the room temperature is very easily controlled.

I believe that there is a mathematical formula for calculating a rough heat output, but I do not have it, and need to consider pump energy efficiency, and design (an unknown factor).

I do not have an Iwaki 20, or 30 (the main two I would like to compare the CSL to), but I have limited access to a variety of cheaper (pet store) pumps for some comparison, and if I can do a "standard" test (unlikely given all the factors ) other people may be able to contribute results as well.

Maybe my idea is a really dumb one, please tell me if it is, and I won't take any offence.

If you could setup your T1 and run it through the loop with NO CPU adding heat, but the rad fans on, this could be a way to test it. Then get a Mag 3 and do the same test. I would think you should measure water temps right out of the pump, and right out of the rad. I for one would be interested in this sort of test.

I can get a MAG3 to compare with from a local pet store - and I will sell it here on the forums when testing is done so as to not loose too much money.

How long of a loop should I test with, and should it include waterblocks (not adding any heat to the circuit) and such, or just a "mock-up" with the pump, a T line for bleeding, and my three radiators?

Or does it not even matter whether anything past the radiator(s) are installed, so long as the exact same circuit is used with both pumps?

It is possible for me to make a mock-up circuit with up to three staggered BIX radiators, and about ten feet of tubing (I have lots of extra Clearflex).

The probes I have are corded, and attached to an LCD readout screen. They are not meant for water, but are waterproof, and seem to work well enough.

Remember, there's a difference between how much temperature that the pump adds per pass of water through it, and how much heat that the pump is dumping into the water.

You need to run the loop for a few hours until the system reaches equilibrium, which will tell you how much above ambient that your pump is heating the water by with the radiators turned on.