• Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!

Neeed Help With A Swiftech Block

Overclockers is supported by our readers. When you click a link to make a purchase, we may earn a commission. Learn More.

Pyros

Member
Joined
Oct 6, 2002
Location
Lost in life
Originally I wanted to know how to remove the quick connects, but I figured that out. What I need to know is whats the best way to go about tapping the holes? If youve every done this you will know what I mean. ;) I thinking that drilling out some of the material down inside to decrease restriction is where I should start first. And then tap the upper most part of the hole. Or would it be best to epoxy the barbs in since the outlet hole is so close to the mounting hole??

Im sure someone here has done this so your feedback is appreciated.

Thanks! Pyros
 
Last edited:
Now why do you want to do this? Your only gonna remove the anodizing and create pits.
They do make adapters for larger barbs if you havent seen those yet.

Jon
 
I want to do this because I dont like using the quick connects and because the adapter create more clutter and I would think more restriction. I have the adapters and used them and just wasnt happy with them. I also want to do this because I can. :D I like to fiddle and experiment and test things out.

Also, I have no intention of removing the anodizing from anywhere the water/coolant mixture will touch. Which is why I have decided against drilling out the bottom interior of the inlets.

The problem that I have run into is the odd size of the pre-existing hole. With it being right at 5/8" a 3/8 npt is too small and a 1/2 npt is too big. The closest I can get to it is a M18 x 1.5 and Im unsure how easily I can find barbs with this threading. As it looks right now I think the easiest and most harmless way I could do this is to get a barb that is 3/8 npt so that its closer to the hole size and epoxy it to the block. It will rest a good 1/2" into the holes in the block and should seal good. And since there is no anodizing where the quick connects used to be it should make a good bond.
 
Back