• Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!

1/2" copper "T"??

Overclockers is supported by our readers. When you click a link to make a purchase, we may earn a commission. Learn More.

csidd

Registered
Joined
Jan 4, 2004
Location
cny
Has anyone used a 1/2" copper "T" in their system? Comparing a 1/2 copper "T" to a 1/2" barbed plastic "T" it obvious that there is much less flow restriction with the copper. Any thoughts on this?

On the same topic, providing a copper "T" increases flow, would it be possible to fabricate a copper "Y"? Given the proper tools you could cut (3) 1/2" copper tubes to "Y" spec and solder them. Or is this too far fetched? Would leaks be almost certain?

One last question, Would stainless steel promote corrosion if it were in the same loop as copper? As always thanks for the comments.
 
I was looking at "T"'s at Home Depot and the 1/2" plactic "T" was not 1/2" ID. (maybe mislabled) The copper "T" was 1/2" ID.
 
Not all plastic-T's are the same as those at Home Depot =p. You simply have to find a T that *is* 1/2" ID.

I don't think it would be too hard to cut a trio of copper barbs to create a Y... although, I'd not want to be the one to do it ^_^. You would need to find someone that is more than anal about optimal flow rates and create a fairly precise 'split'. You wouldn't want an uneven flow.

Now, I hate when people suggest buying something pre-made when a possible mod is being discussed... but... I'm sure that *someone* makes a copper-Y. Have you checked McMaster?
 
I use a 3/8 copper T for a T-line. It is 3/8" ID and 1/2" OD. 1/2 ID clearflex slips on snug; hoseclamps are a really good idea. Do a search for author gungeek with subject pictures. The thread with my system pics should come up. One is a close-up of the 3/8 copper T in my system.

The downside to using a plastic T with a true 1/2" ID is the OD will be huge (close to 3/4") and a royal pain to get tubing onto although it can be done after heating the tubing with near boiling water.

The difference is sidewall thickness. Most plastic Ts have 1/8" (or more) wall thickness while it's just 1/16" for copper fittings. Copper is stronger so that's OK. That makes an 1/8" (or more) difference in OD for the same ID fitting.
 
vonkaar said:

I don't think it would be too hard to cut a trio of copper barbs to create a Y... although, I'd not want to be the one to do it ^_^. You would need to find someone that is more than anal about optimal flow rates and create a fairly precise 'split'. You wouldn't want an uneven flow.

Been there, done that. Only I used schedule 40 CPVC; it's dimensionaly the same as copper pipe, alot easier to precicely work, and easier to bond.
 
I use some copper in most of my systems and even ran one for a while almost entirely tubed with copper.

Yeah, the copper fittings do have a larger ID than the standard plastic ones and that was one of the reasons I used them.

They also look pretty cool. :D
 
All I could find at my local hardware stores were plastic T's with either 1/2"OD (and a coresponding 0.01mm ID) or 1/2"ID (with a coresponding 5 foot OD) and so I have to agree, from what I've seen plastic T's are way too thickly walled. I now use a copper 1/2"ID T which is only slightly bigger in OD (9/16ths OD I think) and I'm much happier, is my flow better? I don't know but at least I'm not annoyed about it anymore.
 
Dcp_0707.jpg


I use 3/8" copper pipe fittings with 1/2" copper tubing.

The copper tube has a 1/2" outside diameter, and the fittings solder to it really easily with a snug fit. The 90's also are more of a bent sweep than fittings of 1/2" copper pipe (5/8" actual) for less flow restriction.

The fittings are called 3/8" because the old origional pipes from 100 years ago, had 1/2" OD and a 3/8 ID, but not anymore.
Since the tubing I use has a very thin wall thickness, there's really little difference between actual ID and OD.

You can use 1/2" brass ferules soldered to the ends of the tubes to make them work as a barb fitting, though in the pic I'm using a 3/8 ID silicone tube setup (my blocks are 3/8") so they don't need the ferules soldered on.

If you have a 1/2" tubing bender, than you can do more than I did, using only the T's. I couldn't find one locally, and just couldn't wait for a net order.

And stainless steel is not a problem in a water system.
 
Last edited:
Back