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Anyone ever try this Fluid XP+ stuff

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xgman said:
http://www.integrity-pc.com/fluidxp.cfm

they claim it cools better than using water.
I didn't see any mention of that at all. Sure, it's non conductive, and a corrosion inhibitor, and non toxic, but they never said it cools better. I'd be surprised it if did personally. In fact, the following quotes from their site leads me to believe that it is indeed worse than water in terms of thermal performance:
Integrity PC has found it to work quite well for our extreme systems and having the other properties (shown below) it is ideal for home use.
... or a water cooled PC owner who is tired of changing the water constantly and is worried about frying your system ...
 
I saw a review where a guy took an old PSU and poured F-XP on it and it sparked up destroying the PSU!!!

I dont know the legitness of this
 
If it is non conductive, it shouldn't of done that. The only thing I can think of is there was some dust that bridged something when the XP was thrown into the mix.

If it is truly what it is advertised to be, then it should be ok for submerged...but no one has said anything about that.
 
Two things.
1. How do you know his claim is valid? :mad: Do you have any idea how many people bull **** about a product just becuase they think it won't work?
2. PSU's have a HECK of a lot more current and power running though them than a motherboard does. 110+V at around a peak of 580W if you have a 500W PSU.
 
sunrunner20 said:
Two things.
1. How do you know his claim is valid? :mad: Do you have any idea how many people bull **** about a product just becuase they think it won't work?
2. PSU's have a HECK of a lot more current and power running though them than a motherboard does. 110+V at around a peak of 580W if you have a 500W PSU.


Easy dude =)

Ive never done a submersion project but from what Ive read before people always seal all their components with some chemical before submersing them... So if he didnt seal the PSU then no wonder.

[rant]
Never thought the submersion thing was a good idea. Sure for some massive OC that will last 20min while you pour dry ice onto it, its fun and kool. But for a daily system its a pretty dumb idea. You are spreading heat from the CPU, to whatever liquid, to EVERYTHING else. Why not just cool the CPU? Yeah yeah more things than just the CPU put out heat so obviously cool them also. I dont have the link nor do I care for searching for it but theres that one guys old p3 setup or whatever old processor that had a completely submerged system but it required something like a 1kilowatt peltier setup with a heatsink that covered the entire rear of the case to cool. If thats no inefficient I dont know what is.
[/rant]
 
Actually, it would work rather well if you have a decent pump and radiator. Most use a chiller when going submerged, that way the entire system is below ambient and there are no worries of condensation.

Another benifit to a submerged system is that you can use a quiet pump and a large passive radiator for cooling...that way its almost silent.


Either way, its not really practical...but niether is sticking a tornado on you HS causing you to go deaf. Its just one of those things that seems interesting.
 
sunrunner20 said:
Two things.
1. How do you know his claim is valid? :mad: Do you have any idea how many people bull **** about a product just becuase they think it won't work?
2. PSU's have a HECK of a lot more current and power running though them than a motherboard does. 110+V at around a peak of 580W if you have a 500W PSU.


actually if no fans, drives, or other thinga are connected to teh PSU, both the motherboard and PSU have roughly the same amount of power running through them.

you are correct by addressing the voltage-anything will conduct electricty if the voltage is high enough.
 
wait wait wait!!

No one here has tried Fluid-XP???????

The problem with submerging a system is leakproofing.... You want a nice rig that you can upgrade the CPU/MOBO/VID, ect. So you can't just RTV it all up. THen there are the cable situations. YOu would have to make a special rig for this. YOu want it so that there are not 6ft cables glued to the box. So you will have to chop up some cables and solder for few hours to make your own cable interface. Thats how I think of it. BUt I go WAY overboard......
 
Direct from Integrity PC it is, try Here 32 Oz. for $34. But, what is $50 compaired to your total system cost?

It's $50 that you didn't have to spend on an overpriced water substitute that probably doesn't cool as well as water, when you can get perfectly good de-ionized water from the grocery store for $1 a gallon :).

Speaking for myself, $50 is a lot of money to spend on something that's completely unnessacery - I've been using de-ionized water and antifreeze for as long as I've been watercooling, had a few spills and accidents, and never lost a piece of hardware.

Whatever happened to using hose clamps thoroughly to prevent leaks, and being really careful when filling to prevent spills?

This product is basically intended to replace the need to be careful, and safe, when setting up your water circuit.
 
Then again it claims to have a 3+ year lifespan. Lubricates the lump and algicide..... I dunno about the rest of you but if those claims are true then I wouldnt mind trying the stuff just so I dont have to mess with it every year. The problem is no matter how non-conductive it is there will still be dust in your case. Fluid touches dust then touches electronics, ZAP! With a 3 year lifespan I can drain it, redo the system and put it back in rather then worry about draining potentially toxic and staining fluid, remixing, refilling and hoping it wont eat away at the metal.

So its more of a "Set it and forget it" kind of solution for those who dont want to mess with it every 6 months to a year.

JT
 
Not worth it to me. I'll just buy some water and antifreeze for 1/3 the price (even less if consider cost per ounce) and do it myself. For those of us who are too lazy or paranoid to do the water/antifreeze mix, I suppose it's worth it but if you properly seal your system and use hose clamps, I don't know what big deal is. I've never had a leak because I take my time when I assemble my system and make sure everything is done right the first time. No leaks, $20+ still in my pocket. And probably better temps too.
 
I am still curious if this would work for a submerged setup. It says it lubricates...which should mean it is non corrosive, which also means it should be good for a submerged system. I guess I will wait until someone else tries it;).
 
My guess is it's midly conductive, not enough to cause real damage if a little hit a card, but still enough to screw things up if submerged.
 
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