T line HELP please

csidd · Jan 22, 2004

Hi all. I'm in the process of setting my system up and I have a question about the T line. Here is a pic of what would work nice for me but I don't know if it will really work.

If this will not do does anyone have suggestions on a good spot for the T? I really do not want to use a res. Thanks.

zip22 · Jan 22, 2004

i think a better place would be between your video card block and your pump. the t-line doesn't have to go all the way to the top. mine only 3 " long

csidd · Jan 22, 2004

The only problem is it's kinda tight from the gpu to the pump. I'm wondering if the T to elbow would be a problem. If not I would rather run it up there and I can shorten it alittle. Here's where I'm at.

crimedog · Jan 22, 2004

i'd recommend before the pump as well. there's also the option of a small resevoir built onto the intake of the pump

csidd · Jan 22, 2004

I'm just curious as to why before the pump would be a better location for the T.

zip22 · Jan 22, 2004

its just a more level place (no need for the elbow), and then it can help feed the pump intake.

Woody29 · Jan 22, 2004

with the T-line on the out off the pump, would it not push the water out if you don't sealed the end off the T-line when topping up, so you'd have to turn the pump off as you fill and on again ?

You know why don't they ever put a little bleed valve on the rads, then getting the air out would be easy like on a radiator in a house.

csidd · Jan 22, 2004

I've managed to fit the T inbetween the gpu and pump. I had to use a 3/8" copper T because my plastic T was too long to fit without going past the side panel. I f this looks good I'm going to remove the mother board and vid card and filler up for leak testing. Comments please.

Woody29 · Jan 22, 2004

i think it's worth while to make the T longer as you have lots of room in your case, cos it's a real pig to bleed the air out, you have to keep tipping the case, with a longer T you hold or bend the T-line to prevent the air from getting back into the loop.

BigSmokey · Jan 22, 2004

I agree with Woody. I think its easier all around if your T is around 1 foot.

pauldenton · Jan 22, 2004

Woody29 said:
You know why don't they ever put a little bleed valve on the rads, then getting the air out would be easy like on a radiator in a house.

the thermochill rads have one....

Woody29 · Jan 22, 2004

pauldenton...thanks i'll check them out.

gungeek · Jan 22, 2004

I like the copper T idea, but can't see hoseclamps holding the tubes onto it in the picture. Tell me that is just for fitting purposes. You really want to use hoseclamps of some kind when using the copper fittings. If you don't plan on hoseclamps, then take the copper fitting out and find another way to do the T-line using a plastic barbed T; it'll keep you from getting a case full of water at some point.

As others have mentioned, it will make life easier to make the T-line longer. On the part that just holds water, you can use a male-male barb to extend the existing piece of tubing. Flow resistance doesn't matter there. Unless you extend the T-line to higher than the radiator, you'll need a way to cap the T-line in an air-tight fashion otherwise the weight of the water in the rad will probably push water out of the T-line when the pump is off. That keeps it from evaporating also.

GoingH2o · Jan 22, 2004

Another thing why didnt you place the rad at the front/bottom of your case? The tubing route would be much more clean and no problems for setting up a T-line.

I would add a shroud to that rad, that fan blowing through it is just loosing to much airflow.

As some1 already pointed out use hose-clamps

crimedog · Jan 22, 2004

I think the rad is great where it is, it'd be more tubing to put it on the front of the case. Now you have intakes on the front and a big exaust at the top

I really dig the aluminum colored paint, maybe you could find some metallic water dye? Just a thought

Also, definintely use metal clamps! Extra cheap insurance. And if possible it would look better to paint/find a new t fitting

BigSmokey · Jan 22, 2004

I disagree with crimedog on the amount of tubing used by putting the rad in front. I think you would use at least 6" less tubing. The problem I see with putting the rad in front though is you might kink trying to put your pump that close to your GPU the way you route now.

If it were mine, I would try the rad in front then go

rad > pump > CPU > GPU > rad

The disadvantage to a top mount is you are not using the best air to cool your setup. This just my guess though.

zip22 · Jan 22, 2004

he could still suck from outside the case, just have plenty of exhaust on the back, and not a lot of intake on the front

BigSmokey · Jan 22, 2004

I havent played with sucking from the top, but I have read a lot of threads about trying to defy convection. People usually have higher temps.

crimedog · Jan 23, 2004

they look about the same to me tube length actually. but i think the top mounted looks a lot sexier.

GoingH2o · Jan 23, 2004

Well drawing a picture does not help you, you have to actually move the rad to the bottom. Also right barb on the rad is intake and left barb is exit so you did the drawing the wrong way

Then
you should place the T-line between the waterblock and rad tubing this will allow a much more cleaner tubing setup

T line HELP please

Registered

Member

Registered

Member

Registered

Member

Member

Registered

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Attachments

Member

Similar threads