- Joined
- Jan 16, 2003
- Location
- Calgary, Alberta CANADA
I was wondering which setup would have the greater cooling potential? Could both setups be run off a Eheim 1048 with WW block?
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Two DD/D-Tek Pro radiators or one 2-342 rad?
- Thread starter marc999
- Start date
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2003
- Location
- Brooklyn
i think running 2 pro radiators in parallel would give better cooling potentional as it would increase the flow in your set up..
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2003
I'm guessing the 2-342 for flow rate purposes, and convenience, and price.
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2003
- Location
- Puerto Rico
Good question marc999 I hope some more people can comment on this. I wanted to buy 2 pro cores with 4 shrouds and 4-120mm fans since I have no idea how to make a shroud for a 2-342 (and would be convenient for me to have it pre-made)...but the prices on those pro-cores are killing me. In any case I would rather wait a little longer and save some more money if the pro-core alternative is the "better" way to go.
P.S. I really like reading about water cooling and i'm very eager to buy my first setup but if i were to buy my "dream" setup it would cost me close to $600.00 and that's without shipping..
auchhh!!
P.S. I really like reading about water cooling and i'm very eager to buy my first setup but if i were to buy my "dream" setup it would cost me close to $600.00 and that's without shipping..
auchhh!!
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2003
If the prices are the problem, then get '86 Chevette Heater cores... You can just buy the procore shrouds. 600 dollars? You've done something wrong, or stupid.
I use two heatercores in parallel and it definately helps flow, not sure if the 1048 would be up to it though i use a 1250 personally.
see here
As for the price point of view you could always go to the scrap yard and pickup some real cheap heatercores, i did costs me aprrox $16 for the both of them.
Later
see here
As for the price point of view you could always go to the scrap yard and pickup some real cheap heatercores, i did costs me aprrox $16 for the both of them.
Later
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2003
- Location
- Puerto Rico
Maybe but keep in mind I did say "dream" setup:
White Water -54.99
2 Pro-cores -77.98 (parallel)
4 Shrouds -59.96
4-120mm -47.96
Bayrez -24.99 (Going on top on my "T" for aesthetics only.)
10' Clearflex -15.00
Chipset mcw20 -37.95
Gpu mcw50 -38.95 (AIW 9800)
Pump MD20RLZT -179.99
Criticool Power P -28.95
+ Zerex, UV Dye, Fittings, ect...
Unless I'm doing something terribly wrong with this setup, it'll take me close to 600.00
I'm very interested to see how 2 pro's fare against 1 "2-342" as it would be the economical choice.
White Water -54.99
2 Pro-cores -77.98 (parallel)
4 Shrouds -59.96
4-120mm -47.96
Bayrez -24.99 (Going on top on my "T" for aesthetics only.)
10' Clearflex -15.00
Chipset mcw20 -37.95
Gpu mcw50 -38.95 (AIW 9800)
Pump MD20RLZT -179.99
Criticool Power P -28.95
+ Zerex, UV Dye, Fittings, ect...
Unless I'm doing something terribly wrong with this setup, it'll take me close to 600.00
I'm very interested to see how 2 pro's fare against 1 "2-342" as it would be the economical choice.
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2001
- Location
- Los Angeles
You should bag the res for sure, why have it at all? It will hinder flow and could break/crack/leak... you also don't need the 20RZT. Great pump, but keep watching ebay, you should consider the MD-15R, better balance and smaller. As far as the rads are concerned, there would be little difference I would think. The 2 D-Tek's in parallel (how I run mine) would offer similar flow resistance to the 2-342 and they offer similar surface area. Running the 2 D-Tek's in series will offer about twice the flow resistance of the 2-342.redken said:
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2003
- Location
- Puerto Rico
I was thinking on including a res only for aesthetics and put it on top of a "T" line, so I thought it would not hinder flow as it was not part of the loop. As for the "break/crack/leak" part all I can say is that they should make one that doesn't and will take your advice and not put it in the system
About the pump, I wasn't sure if the MD-15R would be strong enough as doesn't come in the "z" variety.
As for the rads, if they are pretty much the same, it would be a better choice for me to go with the pro's although much more expensive.
About the pump, I wasn't sure if the MD-15R would be strong enough as doesn't come in the "z" variety.
As for the rads, if they are pretty much the same, it would be a better choice for me to go with the pro's although much more expensive.
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2001
- Location
- Los Angeles
I just wouldn't have an unnecessary part like the bay res in there. If it serves no benefit, then it can only cause problems in the long run IMO. I have heard of the seems coming apart possible due to water additives eating the epoxy away. The MD-15R is plenty strong enough, yet adds minimal heat to the loop.redken said:I was thinking on including a res only for aesthetics and put it on top of a "T" line, so I thought it would not hinder flow as it was not part of the loop. As for the "break/crack/leak" part all I can say is that they should make one that doesn't and will take your advice and not put it in the system
About the pump, I wasn't sure if the MD-15R would be strong enough as doesn't come in the "z" variety.
As for the rads, if they are pretty much the same, it would be a better choice for me to go with the pro's although much more expensive.
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2003
- Location
- Puerto Rico
Jusy a line to say thank's I value this info. very much.
OP
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2003
- Location
- Calgary, Alberta CANADA
- Thread Starter
- #12
nikhsub1 wrote:
Thanks for the info. Since they cool about the same, I probably would prefer the 2-342 since it just seems like a simpler way of doing things. It's good to know that if I did choose the 2 D-Teks that I should put them in parallel. The thing I like about the 2 D-Deks is they would integrate well into a windtunnel, but the extra tubing is kinda a PITA.
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