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What is the best 2 barbed waterblock?

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Nick Burns

Nick Burns

Your company's computer guy
​
Joined
Aug 11, 2003
Location
Overland Park, Kansas
I am looking for a 2 barbed waterblock because I am nervous with my first system and a "Y" fitting. How big of a performance difference is there between the D-tek WW and the best 2 barbed design(besides the cascade because I can't get one of those).
 
I would say the dteks tc-4 or sprir@l at $25 ea right now is hotter than a lightning arc so it's your best bet. See review links at thier site.

So special in fact I ordered two just for video card and NB I will mod with drill press to fit
 
a spiral with fit your NB and video card? how? even with your own mods i doubt that would be possible.
 
A BeCooling slit edge is a nice two barbed block, and it works well with the smaller pumps too.
It has a nicely annodized aluminum top, so use a small ammount of anti-freeze in your water mix...5-10% should be fine.
 
People... he doesn't want a WW or a Cascade, he wants a 2-barbed block =p.

I'd suggest the Slit Edge as well. You can get away with using a cheaper pump, moreso than with many other blocks. Just the same, the Swiftech5002 is another GREAT 2-barb block.
 
Vonkaar, the cascade is a 2 barbed block :rolleyes:

The slit edge and swiftech MCW5000/0002 blocks are pretty nice.


Jon
 
JFettig said:
Vonkaar, the cascade is a 2 barbed block :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Mine isn't =p

But... the Cascade isn't available anyway... I should have specified that ^_^. The poster was asking for a new block, 2 barbed... of those that are available, the 5002 and Slit Edge should be the best.
 
if i'm not wrong its an early version of the CASCADE thats why it have 3 barbs.

if i'm corect the maker of the CASCADE found out that the fact that there are 2 barbs insted of 3 doesn't make such a big differense.
 
No... and yes.

No, that's a special silver-cascade with 2 outlets.

and...

Yes... initially the prototypes had 3 barbs but the cost involved in providing 2 outlets vs 1 didn't justify the small performance boost, so it was removed from production models.
 
A "Y" fitting is no big deal. It comes with the adapter and you can just get some metal screw type snake clamps at any automotive or hardware store and it is very simple to cut a couple of 2 " pieces of hose to connect the "Y". If all your other lines are 1/2" inner dimension, then there is nothing to it. If they are not 1/2" then you can just get adapters for that.
 
A BeCooling slit edge is a nice two barbed block, and it works well with the smaller pumps too.
Click to expand...
Another vote for this block, good performance @ a reasonable price.
 
I don't even use hoseclamps on my "Y" fitting. In fact. that's the only place I don't use hose clamps as the hose is VERY snug on those fittings. The only place I had leakage was at the barbs on my WW. I actually have 2 hose clmaps on the center barb to keep it from leaking.
 
Originally posted by Cyrix_2k (snipped)
I actually have 2 hose clamps on the center barb to keep it from leaking.
Click to expand...

i told my gearhead/gamer friend that i was moving on to H2O and
he told me to double up on the hose clamps. i think it's a good idea.

cutting the Y out of the picture i guess would eliminate two possible
leak points. giving up a little performance for some peace of mind sounds
like a plan :).

SilverSinkSam posted a coolant in the coolant additives sticky that
wont conduct electricity or corrode electronic equipment. it's kinda pricey tho :-/.

rich
 
The coolant takes care of the water also? As in, if there is a leak with that coolant, nothig will fry? Or is it just if that coolant is spilled nothing will fry? Also, where can i find some deionized water for my system? And how much is it? Where can I find that BeCooling Slit Edge block?
 
If you are carefull and do it right the first time and let it test run overnight, you should be fine and it probably will never leak. Just use some distilled water (grocery store) or even some folks use Aquafina bottled water mixed with either a bit of antifreeze, zerex racing fluid or water wetter to keep algae and corrosion down. That non-condutive stuff above is a big waste of money. It made the temps go up.
 
When testing, do I have the motherboard and everything else in place and just turned off or do I keep the mobo out and test and then put it in? Seems like it would be hard to have everything in place if the mobo wasn't in there. If water gets on the electrical stuff in the computer and it is all turned off and is then allowed to dry before turning it on, it shouldn't fry should it?
 
Where can I find that BeCooling Slit Edge block?
Click to expand...
www.aquastealth.com
Also, a review is here: http://www.overclockers.com/articles873/
When testing, do I have the motherboard and everything else in place and just turned off or do I keep the mobo out and test and then put it in?
Click to expand...
No real "right" approach. If you're using a 120v pump then you can put everything in the box & test for leaks - just don't turn the system on. If you're using a 12v pump you can either "go live" or test with a seperate power supply. You can test outside the box, a tried & true method.

Personally I put everything in the box & ran the pump w/o the comp on - worked fine.

Do a search on leaks, lots of folks have had them w/ little consequence.
 
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