- Joined
- Oct 2, 2001
- Location
- Corona, CA
Is there any way I can seal it from the outside? Like a glue type?
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leak testing and I got very small drops from in/outs on pump threads
- Thread starter Vengance_01
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2002
- Location
- Suffolk, UK
The correct way is to use PTFE tape on the threads of the barbs. It means draining ad removing the barbs but its better to do it right then bodge it up with some sort of selant.
- Joined
- May 19, 2003
- Location
- Kingwood, TX
From what I've seen, teflon tape can be hard on pump housings....in other words, crack it. You best bet (and don't be lazy) is to take it all apart again, reseal all threads with RTV sealant (just silicone sealant), and let it dry for a few hours, then carefully put eveything back together and start over. 1 drop of water is not acceptable!
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2002
- Location
- Seattle, WA
Well, Teflon tape always worked fine for me. In my opinion, that's as good as anything. However, silicone sealant is also a good option. Heck, you could even use both if you're paranoid. 
But like the other two said - you should take it apart and do it right.
But like the other two said - you should take it apart and do it right.
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2002
- Location
- Suffolk, UK
=ACID RAIN= said:
Only if you use too much or screw the barb in to far. Its carelessness than breaks pumps.
Silicone may work but its not the right way to do it.
I can't fathom this, PFTE a.k.a. Teflon tape serves two purposes when making threaded connections:
1. Seal the threads, fill in the small gaps in threaded connections
2. "Lubricate" the parts, making the connection easier & allowing you to get the parts tighter.
(by lubricate I mean ease the friction between parts, especially plastic)
OP
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2001
- Location
- Corona, CA
- Thread Starter
- #8
Ok I think I am gonna use the tape. Got it apart and heading back out once again
OP
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2001
- Location
- Corona, CA
- Thread Starter
- #9
It worked. I was so stupid not to remember that. Anyways it mounted on the Mobo now outside the case. Thanks guys for all your help and support. I found this place to be most helpful in everyway
- Joined
- May 19, 2003
- Location
- Kingwood, TX
Glad it worked Vengance
Guys, the only reason I say what I say about teflon tape is because not everybody knows to use it in moderation. Some guys load like 15 layers on there and think it's supposed to be tight and hard to screw on. That IMO is where the problems begin. That, and also some guys with the acrylic bayres or other acrylic reseviors have cracked the hell out of them with too much teflon. In that case a small imperfection in the bore gave as soon as force was applied. I've used both, and had better luck with RTV sealant anyways (had one teflon seal leak after a month or so).
Guys, the only reason I say what I say about teflon tape is because not everybody knows to use it in moderation. Some guys load like 15 layers on there and think it's supposed to be tight and hard to screw on. That IMO is where the problems begin. That, and also some guys with the acrylic bayres or other acrylic reseviors have cracked the hell out of them with too much teflon. In that case a small imperfection in the bore gave as soon as force was applied. I've used both, and had better luck with RTV sealant anyways (had one teflon seal leak after a month or so).
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2002
- Location
- Seattle, WA
Yeah, for a bayres or something like that silicone sealant would be a better option. Vaseline worked for me, but in retrospect I'd recommend against it.
And yes, you only need 3 layers or so of Teflon tape. I usually do 2.
And yes, you only need 3 layers or so of Teflon tape. I usually do 2.
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2003
- Location
- 5min from Philly Airport
I used liquid teflon instead of tape...but don't use it on lexan or acrylic. It attacked the threads when I made my first res. Now I use a T-line...much easier.
I like using and recomending the silicone sealant because it also 'glues' the threads in place, but can fairly easily be removed.
It doesn't leave that unsightly white ring around your barb.
No-one has ever cracked a pump housing from using too much.
It's easier to use, especially with my nifty aerosol cans of it.
It produces a better seal when using poly barbs (like I do).
Teflon tape is great for iron pipe (water and gas lines) but that's all I use it for anymore.
Glad you got it running Vengance_01.
It doesn't leave that unsightly white ring around your barb.
No-one has ever cracked a pump housing from using too much.
It's easier to use, especially with my nifty aerosol cans of it.
It produces a better seal when using poly barbs (like I do).
Teflon tape is great for iron pipe (water and gas lines) but that's all I use it for anymore.
Glad you got it running Vengance_01.
OP
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2001
- Location
- Corona, CA
- Thread Starter
- #15
ok well the pump inlet is liking again, not at the barb, but around the housing. Gonna try some sealent.
OP
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2001
- Location
- Corona, CA
- Thread Starter
- #16
well let the sealent set for two hours. So far its looking good. Gonna watch it bit before I goto bed, then check in the morring Can AntiFrezee help bring down temp over pure distilled water?
Can AntiFrezee help bring down temp over pure distilled water?
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2002
- Location
- Seattle, WA
Nope, it can't. Antifreeze is only there for corrosion protection, so use as little as you can. Around 10% should be fine. There's really nothing better than pure water for temps.
OP
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2001
- Location
- Corona, CA
- Thread Starter
- #18
Ok thanks. The Sealent worked ran all night and not one leak notone drop. I will set it up after I get off of work and post pictures.
notone drop. I will set it up after I get off of work and post pictures.
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2002
- Location
- Seattle, WA
Awesome, glad you got it working. Looking forward to seeing pics!
Im currently making a custom water block and custom chiller for my custom case. (If you havnt noticed everything with me is custom and home made.) Anyway Ill make a nice lenghty thread about my case and cooling system a few weeks down the road when its done. Im excited about it.
Anyway without the ranting, because of the nature of how Im making it i cant exactly use traditional plumbing methods. Ive found that a small bead of latex caulk around the fitting at the end of the tube followed by a nice gasket made of pc-7. pc-11. your preference, works incridebly well. I actually did this to my dish washer and it worked great. It is a lazy way out because you dont have to disassemble everything and makes ever replacing somethign a royal pain in the @SS but it works incriedebly well. And I cant argue with results. Anyway just FYI for people when there in a tight fit.
Also I've found if mixed properly pc-7, pc-11 work MUCH MUCH better then JB weld. At least for computers and low temp projects (I.E. anything under 150 deggrees fahrenhiet.)
Anyway without the ranting, because of the nature of how Im making it i cant exactly use traditional plumbing methods. Ive found that a small bead of latex caulk around the fitting at the end of the tube followed by a nice gasket made of pc-7. pc-11. your preference, works incridebly well. I actually did this to my dish washer and it worked great. It is a lazy way out because you dont have to disassemble everything and makes ever replacing somethign a royal pain in the @SS but it works incriedebly well. And I cant argue with results. Anyway just FYI for people when there in a tight fit.
Also I've found if mixed properly pc-7, pc-11 work MUCH MUCH better then JB weld. At least for computers and low temp projects (I.E. anything under 150 deggrees fahrenhiet.)
