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Cracked polytop whitewater:(

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Milkman

Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2002
Location
NH Biodiesel master
Well just got my mobile Barton 2500+ cranked up to a sweet 2728 mhz and have been running prime95 for days stable , when I noticed my T-line water level had dropped some, I topped it off yesterday and it was down again today, so I thought I better inspect, well found a crack between 2 barbs:( it had dripped onto my 9500pro, I cleaned all up so I think it's ok but now I need a new top, can anyone tell me where I can buy an aluminum top? I don't wan't another leak so I wanna go with metal this time, someone must know.

-Milkman
 
DTek should RMA something like that, shouldn't they? Unless you've been a bad boy and you played around with the barbs...
 
RE

I replaced my dtek top with the Logic Cooling copper top as soon as I recieved my WhiteWater.


Not only do I not have to worry about it cracking...I get much better temps with the copper top vs the poly top.

When I mounted it orginally with the poly top I couldn't compress the springs enough to get good contact...almost like it was "bowing" or "warping a tad.

The copper top from Logic Cooling is very sturdy, well worth the price IMHO.


Cheers
 
Well I did order the copper top from logic cooling,I didn't get the polished version, how does the machined finish look?

-Milkman
 
Why doesn't Dtek just offer a copper top version of the Whitewater? I wouldn't want to pay $27 more for a copper top to replace the poly top or the aluminum top.
 
"tooled" finish: $27 + shipping = way too much
"polished" finish: $37 + shipping = way way way too much.

you can buy another waterblock for that much. id say get the aluminum

edit: hahahaha (the line in the sig above me) i love it
 
Last edited:
Milkman said:
how does the machined finish look?

-Milkman

5072591.jpg
 
Not too bad if he did a good job machining it. You could get yourself a flat surface and some 220, 320, 400, 600, 800 grit sand paper and some brasso and polish away if you want. Otherwize it shoudl be just fine.
-edit- do you have any pictures of the crack?

Jon
 
Re: RE

TheWiz said:
I replaced my dtek top with the Logic Cooling copper top as soon as I recieved my WhiteWater.


Not only do I not have to worry about it cracking...I get much better temps with the copper top vs the poly top.

When I mounted it orginally with the poly top I couldn't compress the springs enough to get good contact...almost like it was "bowing" or "warping a tad.

The copper top from Logic Cooling is very sturdy, well worth the price IMHO.


Cheers

I have had no problems with my poly top. Barbs are not too tight and I was able to screw it down with no issues.

As far as temps go, I could see maybe 1 - 2c difference with a copper top, not sure about much more than that if that. Chances are when you remounted it you just mounted it better and got better temps.

Personally I like being able to see if anything is obstructing the channels.
 
JFettig said:
Not too bad if he did a good job machining it. You could get yourself a flat surface and some 220, 320, 400, 600, 800 grit sand paper and some brasso and polish away if you want. Otherwize it shoudl be just fine.
-edit- do you have any pictures of the crack?

Jon

I will post some with sadness:(
 
zip22 said:
"tooled" finish: $27 + shipping = way too much
"polished" finish: $37 + shipping = way way way too much.

you can buy another waterblock for that much. id say get the aluminum

edit: hahahaha (the line in the sig above me) i love it

'course you pay a $10 premium to get aluminium over poly anyway...

edit: and get plastic barbs :(
 
Last edited:
RE

I have had no problems with my poly top. Barbs are not too tight and I was able to screw it down with no issues.

As far as temps go, I could see maybe 1 - 2c difference with a copper top, not sure about much more than that if that. Chances are when you remounted it you just mounted it better and got better temps.

Personally I like being able to see if anything is obstructing the channels.

I'm going to have to disagree with you here. I've been watercooling for years.. and have gotten pretty good at mounting my blocks. I can reproduce the "warping" "Bowing" effect over and over again.

After replacing the poly top with the copper top I instantly saw a dramatic temp drop. This isn't do to mounting differences.

It's simple do to the fact that I can compress the springs fully and gain much needed pressure.

I always mount my blocks multiple times for that perfect mount temp wise..In my case....it WAS a warping issue.
 
I have touched the top of my WW and it isnt even warm, so I cant see a copper top making more than a degree or two difference. Also just looking at how the poly top is fitted to the copper base, its hard to see how it can warp/bow.

Several times I have taken it off an put back on with no issues and it is screwed down fairly tight.
 
yeah, im not sure how the poly top can warp. maybe you feel more secure with the copper top so you tightened it more? also, the copper top looks thicker, so wouldn't that mean that if you tightened the knobs down to the same level, the springs would be compressed more?
 
zip22 said:
... also, the copper top looks thicker, so wouldn't that mean that if you tightened the knobs down to the same level, the springs would be compressed more?

Yes, that's exactly what he said above:
It's simple do to the fact that I can compress the springs fully and gain much needed pressure.

It makes sense, 'cuz that's one honkin' huge hunk of copper. Say that 3 times fast! :p It's obvious that it's going to be waaaayyyy stiffer than a thinner piece of plastic, so you'll be able to clamp it tighter without the entire waterblock bowing.
 
There comes a point where you reach a certain amount of pressure at which time it doesnt matter how much more you clamp it down. It wont help you and just risk damaging something.
 
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