Look over my WCing sys be4 i order

Hey im new to these forums and new to wcing but not new to computers but i wanna make sure everything is right....I only want to order from one site...either D-tek or Dangerden

My rig is:
P4 [email protected] on Abit IC7-Max3 with corsair 512x2(1gb) pc-3700
WD raptor, Lite on 52x32x52 and Samsung 16x48 dvd
Sapphire 9800xt (474/800 or 474/400 depends on how u look at the mem clock) audigy 2 zs
enermax 465watt raidmax storm mid tower with 20 fans!!!
3dmark03: 7247 (and rising with my overclock)

Giving u my sys specs just to introduce myself

im deciding between these 2 systems on danger den and d-tek and i want opinions and suggestions:

D-tek kit im thinking about:
White water Poly top (maybe i should get aluminum top)
Pro Radiator with dual shroud and 2 120mm aluminum fans
Clear Flex or Tygon(tygon is out of stock...) 1/2
T-fitting and y-fitting
10 nylon hose clamps
Supercool Additive(is this really the best or is water wetter/purple ice better)
Eheim 1250 (also out of stock how long it take D-tek to restock?)
UV-Dye RED!!!!! (does red look good cause my case theme is blue and red no uv though)
I think thats it....i dont think i need a res (t line)

Dangerden Sys im thinking about:
DDRBX 478 copper top 1/2 barbs
Bronze top and barbs
86 chevy heater core (not the double cause it wont fit in my case)
dual shrouds with 2x120mm aluminum fans
Eheim 1250
Tygon
Waterwetter or Zerex?
Steel hold down (need this for p4?)
10 hose clamps y and t fitting

i looked up tygon tubing using the search and it seems more people like it so if possible im gonna use tygon....seems more people use dangerden but more people say d-tek is better....for water additives its a mess on these baords cause everyone has their own opinions and btw what does zerex look like?

Welcome to the forums.

Both look basically the same except for the blocks. The D-tek kit then should perform a bit better.

Tygon vs Cflex. They're supposively the same in makeup and characteristics. I use clearflex but have used tygon. I like the tygon because it is "crystal clear" whereas the cflex has a blueish tint (but basically clear). Other than that they were basically the same imo. For the price though I couldn't afford a new batch of tygon so I went with the cflex for .65/foot at mcmaster.com

Eheim 1250 (also out of stock how long it take D-tek to restock?)
- Not sure if its been in/out of stock but I remember it being out of stock at dtek since way back.

water additives - Stay away from water wetter (do a quick search and you'll find out why). Depending on the color you want choose the corresponding additive. The main purpose is to prevent corrosion from occuring which most of these additives will do (important info about purple ice). Bacteria I think will depend on the environment the system is exposed to (some of these additives won't kill jack ) Some good old green antifreeze would be a quick and cheap solution if you have some laying around.

Last but not least: have you considered a DIY system?

where do u draw a line between a kit and a DIY? when u mod it like crazy and use kitchen tubberware for shrouds and other crazy things?

A kit is more like a hydrocool or an *cough* aquarius II.

The danger den 'kits' are more of them puttin your order together for you, and shipping it, as most of them are upgradable and are nice to start with!

so according to that definition aren't my 2 WC sys i picked DIY?

and i think im gonna go dangerden unless D-tek gets more 1250

edit: where does all this stuff fit in my case? its pretty stuffed

AZNmodder said:

so according to that definition aren't my 2 WC sys i picked DIY?

and i think im gonna go dangerden unless D-tek gets more 1250

edit: where does all this stuff fit in my case? its pretty stuffed

Click to expand...

if space is at a premium then you might prefer a hydor L30 to the eheim - $20 cheaper, and dtek have it in stock... performance is virtually identical and it's quite a bit smaller...

pauldenton said:

if space is at a premium then you might prefer a hydor L30 to the eheim - $20 cheaper, and dtek have it in stock... performance is virtually identical and it's quite a bit smaller...

Click to expand...

space is not at a premium unfortunately....i wanna try to stay internal but i got 20 fans and i dont wanna remove any and a million parts plus this is a mid tower and dont orget i modded this case(kinda)

Build the system yourself. You'll be happier in the long run and likely save some cash.

by building the system myself do u mean order the above stuff and put it together because thats what im going to do.....unless u mean make the system out of "scrap crap" and im probably most likely not going to do that....

You could save a bit by buying a heatercore and modding the barbs. 1/2" clearflex @ mcmaster.com @ .65/foot. Pump and block from the various online vendors and the rest of the various clamps and fittings from the local hardware store.

AZNmodder said:

space is not at a premium unfortunately....i wanna try to stay internal but i got 20 fans and i dont wanna remove any and a million parts plus this is a mid tower and dont orget i modded this case(kinda)

Click to expand...

hmm - maybe that phrase doesn't cross the pond well ......

"at a premium" means is in short supply - so from your description it's definitely at a premium - should be easier to fit an L30 (length:4.5"(114mm) width:3"(76mm)height:3.5"(89mm)) than the bigger 1250 (7.1"L x 3.8"W x 4.7"H)

lol ic..... well which is better d-tek or danger den.....im starting to think about ordering from a butt load of vendors instead of just one....what does zerex look like and what is d-teks best additive??

20 fans? you should be able to lose alot of your fans with the WCing system.

I got my Maze4 and Hydor L30 from DangerDen and was completely happy. I went with the cheap "scrapcrap" heatercore because I got a larger core (8"x8.5" fin area) for a buck. A heatercore is a heatercore, it either leaks or it doesn't and thats why you should get the least expensive one. Yes, you have take some time instead of clicking the "buy" button, but all in all you'll get better satisfaction and likely better results designing your own setup. The junkyard even pressure tested my HC for free when I told them it was for a "science" project. The barbs on my heatercore were already 5/8" for both in/out so I didn't even need to mod. I'm setting up an external system so I wanted the biggest HC I could find with matched barbs.

AZNmodder said:

what does zerex look like

Click to expand...

It depends on which zerex you get.. There is the super protector which basically is clear and its made for the water pump. It prevents corrosion and bacteria. This stuff is available at most autozone's.. Then there's the zerex racing coolant, I have never used this but I believe the color is a little big magenta? (can someone confirm this?)

If you are looking on saving money, I would buy from different vendors. The heatercore at dd doesn't look much different than the 86 chevette heatercore. However, it costs around $30, and you could get the heatercore @ autozone for like $18.

Also, for the hose clamps, I prefer metal instead of plastic and you could run to homedepot and jack yourself some.. .

As for the steel holddown for the dd block, you don't need to get that. It should be automatically included when u buy the block, mines did.

pphx459 said:

Also, for the hose clamps, I prefer metal instead of plastic and you could run to homedepot and jack yourself some.. .

Click to expand...

Now that's a damn shame! You can buy hoseclamps 10 for $1.00 at some plumbing shops or hardware stores. Anyways, everyone knows that jacked gear always leaks!!!!

apenland01 said:

Now that's a damn shame! You can buy hoseclamps 10 for $1.00 at some plumbing shops or hardware stores. Anyways, everyone knows that jacked gear always leaks!!!!

Click to expand...

hehehehe, that's why mines not leaking.

Here's what I did, and what I recommend:
I bought a brass topped RBX, maze4 gpu, tygon, zerex super racing, 2x120 aluminum fans, and 2 shrouds from dangerden.com
i got a magdrive 3 pump from a petstore(.com) that was having a sale. usplastics for barts and a t-line. 2x120mm heatercore from levine (it's expensive there though!).
I love my rbx, and from everything i've heard/read it performs about the same as the White Water (with a strong pump that is). I've also heard a LOT of complaints that dtek is doing a shabby job of making their WW's. I wouldn't put up with that crap, I know for a fact that the RBX is a quality product, and it has a well finished base (1200 grit!).
Personally I'd get an enheim (sp?) if i had the space and the money, but if you want to go smaller I'd highly recommend the mag3.
And... I'm done. Here's a pic of about 25% zerex (from dangerden) and 75% distilled water in my tygon tubing.

wow is that with no dye and zerex makes the color or u using dye? i think im gonna go dangerden...hope i have room for all the crap cause im getting eheim 1250....i have no idea where to stuff all this crap....maybe i can cut out some of the back of my case or something but i dont wanna do that lol thx for the help people

in my coolermaster case, i barely got the iwaki to fit.. i'm pretty sure you'll have no problems with the eheim..