Water bong cooling

Whatever happened to this? Haven't heard anything in this area in well over a year. Or have heater cores totally squashed them out of existence?

I agree what ever happened to water bong cooling? I think its been like a year and a 1/2 since I heard about one here???

I liked mine...I'd be running one for winter right now if the Mrs hadn't sucked the checkbook dry...
Of course, it wouldn't hardly resemble the origional ones. Ya gotta add some things to get over the origional's shortcomings, like refilling, noise, killing bacteria without poisoning yourself, stuff like that.

I'd run mine for winter only though, as a humidifier.

Good call, Diggrr, dry skin sucks. Yeah, I think the heater core killed them, but there's still the nostalgia of them, I guess.

killing bacteria without poisoning yourself...........

Tell me about it Diggrr. This is the one reason why I would never try bong cooling. I have a 5 year old daughter and I don't need her breathing in evaporated chemicals.

That is why I stopped running my evap system, the gooies. its just gross and to get rid of them safely isnt really all that easy. Another reason is because of lan parties, but forget about that

I had great plans to make a twister bong a while back, but the nasties would just make it gross.

Jon

SemiCycle said:

killing bacteria without poisoning yourself...........

Tell me about it Diggrr. This is the one reason why I would never try bong cooling. I have a 5 year old daughter and I don't need her breathing in evaporated chemicals.

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I'd thought of building a 1" acrylic tube into the bottom with a UV cold cathode in it to kill bacteria like the aquarium guys do. It'd also help to use a nice alergen catching furnace filter (well pieces of one) as an air intake filter media. My old Danner would get gobs of dust wrapped around the impeller when I just used a simple floss type filter.
In a case, dust is no real big deal. But in a bong it can accumulate and kill your pump if you're not watching.

Besides being a nice humidifier in winter, it's also filtering your air at the one time of year your house is all closed up tight.

I had a 6 footer going over a year ago. Due to space constrictions my reservoir was way to small and I had to refill almost every day . Never got any buggies but I only ran it a couple months. I loved those sub ambient idle temps and the fact that I had to go pee twice as much as usual due to the waterfall sound

im still thinking of makeing mine, but need abit of cash.
im gona tube it outside to get rid of most issuses.
and swap it with my hsf for lans.
i belive the reason heatercores killed bongs is because heatercores are able to be put inside your case, and look neat and tidy.

I sincerely have high hopes of the following in 2004: My trusty work winME Dell "dies"...of course only after I burn all needed files onto discs... and, instead of petitioning our IT boys for a new Dell, I make an executive decision to build my own AMD rig right there at work. If they are interested, which they won't be, I speak to the powers that be, explaining that the newest cpus "run too hot" for conventional cooling. "Er, I mean, they won't last very long, you know...and...and so, I have a much better way to cool them." I picture a 4 foot tall, 4-6 inch diameter wide pvc tower with a Y-joint near the bottom fitting a nice low-output fan blowing slowly onto the falling water. I picture a low-output shower head at the top spraying/dribbling heated water from the waterblock down the body of the tower. I picture steamy office windows from the humidity output-- maybe even puffs of evaporative steam on a cold morning-- and finally picture an overclocked cpu/vid card work PC i can be proud of using, and care for like a baby.

I think waterchiller is way easier and safer, so that probable killed it.

Water chillers....heater cores.....gunk in pipes = death of the bong.

Oh well. Cool idea while it lasted. Pretty good brag rights.

Voodoo Rufus said:

Water chillers....heater cores.....gunk in pipes = death of the bong.

Oh well. Cool idea while it lasted. Pretty good brag rights.

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not to mention using a word not usually assocaited with ocing

Diggrr said:

UV cold cathode in it to kill bacteria like the aquarium guys do.

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while UV will kill "naasties" the CCFL lamps are way way under wattage...you need to go to a coral reef store or a pand store and examine the wattage of the bulbs used...on average the small fellers use 60 watts of UV light to kill the nasties....and thats with moderate flow...the more flow the more light. I can track down all the info for you on this as I am sure my numbers are of slightly, but I run one on my 1200 gallon pond to keep the algae @ bay. Works great, but DO NOT stare @ the bulb while on(run away from the light carolann!)

All the guys using Water Bongs lost interest and went to Taco Bell for their munchies

FizzledFiend said:

while UV will kill "naasties" the CCFL lamps are way way under wattage...you need to go to a coral reef store or a pand store and examine the wattage of the bulbs used...on average the small fellers use 60 watts of UV light to kill the nasties....and thats with moderate flow...the more flow the more light. I can track down all the info for you on this as I am sure my numbers are of slightly, but I run one on my 1200 gallon pond to keep the algae @ bay. Works great, but DO NOT stare @ the bulb while on(run away from the light carolann!)

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I know how the aquarium guys use a UV, and those suckers are usually too big for my needs. There are some differences in bong .vs aquariums that I can take advantage of.
They must have a UV/killer inline with their systems because of exposing the fish would be bad, as well as people around the room would get eye damage, so they can only treat a small ammount at a time while the water is at speed through the system. Hence the huge wattage bulbs.
In a bong, with it in the res, and considering the much smaller ammount of water that needs exposure, most of the water would have exposure at most times. Only what's in the pump and tubing would be 'dark' at any given time, and that wouldn't be for long (my idea is a 2 pump, 2 loop heat exchange system).

I don't need to expose 100 gallons of water jetting past, I only need to expose 1-2 gallons on a much closer to constant basis.
The bong would also be opaque, so there's NO light exposure to the outside. Glowing tubes are cool and all, but cataracts and skin cancer would suck.
Contingency plan if that doesn't do it, includes eurethromyacin added as well, that doesn't move to vapor form.

Contingency plan if that doesn't do it, includes eurethromyacin added as well, that doesn't move to vapor form.

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What exactly is this stuff?

I am thinking of making a really big arse bong sometime, and am looking for an additive that won't kill me while I sleep.

Erythromycin is a macrolide antibiotic used to treat a wide variety of bacterial infections. Several chemical forms of erythromycin are available for oral use to treat infections in the body. Erythromycin-containing products are also available to treat eye and skin infections.

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It's for killing bacteria, and is used for people as well as fish. You can get it at most pet stores as tablets that you add to the aquarium. Of course, you may have to cut down the tablet some unless you have a 100 gallon bong...read the package for recommended dosage.
Even if it were to go to a vapor form from a solid, it won't hurt you.
We had a "bonger" that showed this secret a while back.

By the way, I spelled it wrong

I use Erythromycin in my loop. The tablets I have say 1 per 10 gallons. I got em from a buddy of mine who uses them in his aquarium. No buggies so far :fingerscrossed: