Aqua Computer Parts

FarEast · Mar 14, 2004

Odd as it might sound but here in Japan we are a little behind in the water cooling area for our PC's ... Earthquakes-Water-Computers= Not a good mix!

But recently my local overclocking specalist has started stocking Aqua Computer parts, now not only do they look like they where made by Audi but they are well priced too.

Now has any one heard of these people before? they are a German company and from the quality of there stock they seem good.

Now the next problem i have Is that i require a socket A block that clips to the Mobo and not screws in using motherboard mounting holes..... my motherboard doesn't have any

Not sure if this is for clip attachment or not?

Also the pump natually will be a Eheim 1048 or Eheim 1046 as they are Japanese and they have started doin them with a molex connector!!!! I will try and get a photo for you guys!

Also I have seen there a VGA cooler that does both sides of the card GPU and Memory.

Now i have posted images of everything that i was planning on getting for my system any remarks on it? What do you think?

Shadowcat · Mar 14, 2004

The 1046 or 1048's do not really have a very high flow rate (in related to something like a Mag3) but would suffice.

I like the dual bay res thing although I would have thought that for all the space it takes up, the res could be slightly bigger.

I agree that it does look very well made although the CPU block design looks to be the rather 'old style' maze type.

My guess is that the kit would perform OK, looks like it is more styled towards people who want something to show off and want silence, rather than a high performance cooling system, if the price is right... consider it.

FarEast · Mar 14, 2004

Ok so you recommend a Mag3 of the Eheim......do you have links?

Also yes I'm aware that the waterblock is similar to the maze design but as i said I require a Clip attachment to the Motherboard. If you know of one please link me in the right direction!

The reservior above holds 0.16 litres which seems to be about average.

Shadowcat · Mar 14, 2004

The tubing connections look to be either 8mm or 10mm, which is not the best but again will do for an average performance cooling system

The Mag3 can be found by just scrolling down in the watercooling forums a bit, there is loads of discussion about it, I don't know what voltage japan is, but the Mag3 is only 110/120v I believe.

Other pumps you may want to look at (all in this forum) are:

Via 1300,
Hydor L30,
Swiftech, MCP600,
DangerDen 12v
or the Ehiem 1250

They all have their positives and negatives, choosing one really depends on what suits you best.

From the looks of things, it seems as if that waterblock has the clips to attach to a socket already on it, although if it does not you might always be able to find a generic one on somewhere like www.dangerden.com

FarEast · Mar 14, 2004

Shadowcat said:
The tubing connections look to be either 8mm or 10mm, which is not the best but again will do for an average performance cooling system[/url]

So what size is best? your telling whats bad but not whats good...... which isn't really helping matters.

according to the website they are 70mm connections.

Shadowcat · Mar 14, 2004

70mm connectors? Do you mean 7mm or do they really say 70mm?

Ok, here is the flavour of the day setup in terms of watercooling:

Tubing: 1/2"
Pump: You are looking for High GPH and High head, commonly considered 'best' pump for this is the Danner Mag3
To cool the water: The Chevette Heatercore.. there is quite a bit about that on this forum
Tubing material: Tygon or Clearflex (clearflex is almost the same and is cheaper)
Coolant: De-ionised water + some form of racing forumla, dangerden currently stock 'Zerex racing supercoolant' to prevent corrosion and improve thermal transfer
CPU Block: Dtek WW, Dangerden RBX or the famous Cascade (these are the current top performers I believe)

You can always buy new barbs for that watercooling setup.

feyd83 · Mar 14, 2004

Some of that stuff might be hard to get a hold of in Japan.

As for the german stuff, I've seen it on a lot of german sites. I'm pretty sure most of the german stuff is catered to low flow design, so a bigger pump would probably be a waste.

FarEast · Mar 14, 2004

Shadowcat said:
70mm connectors? Do you mean 7mm or do they really say 70mm?

sorry the site is in German so it's tricky they are actually 10mm fittings, Although can you explain why 1.27cm is better than 1cm ? Does the 2mm really make that much difference?

Shadowcat said:
To cool the water: The Chevette Heatercore.. there is quite a bit about that on this forum

To get one of those out here in Japan I might as well go into the extreme cooling side. As import costs will be ridcouslly expensive, I could imagine that would be the same story for you in the UK.

Shadowcat said:
Pump: You are looking for High GPH and High head, commonly considered 'best' pump for this is the Danner Mag3

I have just been comparing the flow rates compared to Eheim 1060...Centrifugal pump and It out performs the Danner by quiet abit including noise output and flow rates.

Shadowcat said:
CPU Block: Dtek WW, Dangerden RBX or the famous Cascade (these are the current top performers I believe)

Unfortuanly both of those are out because my motherboard doesn't support mounting plates.

Also I'm interested to hear what setup you have Shadowcat as seeing what other use is always helpful.

walkerIV · Mar 14, 2004

FarEast said:
...
sorry the site is in German so it's tricky they are actually 10mm fittings, Although can you explain why 1.27cm is better than 1cm ? Does the 2mm really make that much difference?
...

The 10mm is probably the outside diameter of the tubing whereas 1/2 inch is the internal diameter of common american system.

also you might want to clarify as to the purpose of the setup you'll be building. Is it for quiteness, performance, extreme overclocking or just looks?

FarEast · Mar 14, 2004

Basicly It's for overclocking and quietness I'm happy with the O/C i have at the moment and not really wanting to take it higher so it's to drop my temps and sound ... As durring the summer here in Japan I either have to crank up the fans or drop the O/C. Of course looks are always important as i have to llok at the thing everyday and if it was ugly the wife would complain that its an eye sore.

The 10mm is internal diameter i think where as I actaully think the US measure the outside! Due to the Pumps diameters listed on the US sites and the Japanese sites have exactly the same fitting sizes. which would also explain the 0.27mm difference.

pauldenton · Mar 14, 2004

FarEast

as far as heatercores go, the guys on OCAU get very good results from the core from a Toyota Camry.....
http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?s=&threadid=49874

pumpwise you can't go wrong with an Iwaki MD (don't know what they go for in japan, but that's where they're made....)
corect me if i'm wrong but isn't japan 100V 50hz? if so then a mag3 won't perform as well for you as it would on a 60hz supply like the US....

dangerden RBX comes in a socket hold down version...
http://www.dangerden.com/mall/Blocks/rbx.asp

walkerIV · Mar 14, 2004

FarEast said:
...
The 10mm is internal diameter i think where as I actaully think the US measure the outside!
...

The US measures the inside. At least that's what they mean on this web site when they recommend 1/2 inch tubing.

As for 10mm could be either way. Judging by the photo of the water block, the pump fittting just seems too small for 10mm ineer diameter.

pauldenton · Mar 14, 2004

walkerIV said:
The US measures the inside. At least that's what they mean on this web site when they recommend 1/2 inch tubing.

As for 10mm could be either way. Judging by the photo of the water block, the pump fittting just seems too small for 10mm ineer diameter.

the aquacomputer (largest) fitting is a 10mm OD barb i believe - so you could use 10mm ID (or less) tubing - bigger would need adaptors of some kind.....

http://www.wizarddesigns.co.uk/ is a good source of info about aquacomputer stuff (if you're happier in english than german...)

ShoNuff · May 7, 2004

As feyd83 stated above, this is a system catered to lower water flows than what we typically see here in the U.S. FarEast, for your system, the Eheim 1048 should work fine. If you review some of the German watercooling sites they often use the Eheim 1046 instead of the 1048.

I am converting my system from a 10mm/13mm (3/8”/1/2”, inside/outside diameter) set up to a 6mm/8mm set up. The parts should be here in about two weeks, which should give me an opportunity to compare what I currently have vs. the German gear.

I strongly believe the fittings shows above are of the 6/8 sizes. Those fittings are called "Plug & Cool" and I have only seen them in the 6mm inside and 8mm outside diameter sizes. Note, they may be available in other sizes I however I have not been able to find them.

FarEast, your system should work great when you get it up and running. Check out this site site and see how the block you have chosen compares to some of the others.

FarEast · May 7, 2004

Thanks for the reply!

But i have had the system up and running now for around 3 weeks...... see the link in my sig

I currently have an OC of 11.5 x 218 = 2507MHz
with temps of 47°C and load of 53°C Although this does depend on the ambeint temps of the house as we are currently moving into humid season and alot of the water cooling guys here in Japan complain about the rise in temps!

I'm actually thinking of buying all the 1/2" fittings just to see if I get better results but to be honest the main part of this set up was to reduce noise and possilbly temps as pointed out in the project.

I'm really tempted to get the Cuplex Pro as the results given for that water block look great.

ShoNuff · May 7, 2004

FarEast said:
Thanks for the reply! But i have had the system up and running now for around 3 weeks......

Wow, your system is awesome. I am rebuilding my system around the NexXxus HP Pro. Hopefully the items I ordered will be here soon.

What voltage are you currently using to overclock your processor?

FarEast · May 7, 2004

The bios is odd and you go up in % so it's 10% above normal voltage.

Thanks for the compliment it's still a work in progress so keep checking back........im currently working on the monitor for the system. But I'm awaiting the window and custom fan grills

ShoNuff · May 9, 2004

FarEast, how do you fill the reservoir in your system? When the new LianLi's are available I am going to need a new reservoir and I like the one pictured above. I'm just not sure how it you would fill it? I am currently using the Innovatek Tank-O-Matic and I like it. I wont have the room to use it with my new case however.

Thanks in advance for the reply.

FarEast · May 9, 2004

ShoNuff said:
FarEast, how do you fill the reservoir in your system? When the new LianLi's are available I am going to need a new reservoir and I like the one pictured above. I'm just not sure how it you would fill it? I am currently using the Innovatek Tank-O-Matic and I like it. I wont have the room to use it with my new case however.

Thanks in advance for the reply.

The reservoir is very easy to fill as the acrylic sheet top unbolts and you fill it via that ...... I found that If you have a bleed valve it makes it easier to fill.... but once you have enough liquid in the system turn it on and as it drains out of the reservoir you just add more water before it empties.

The Aqua-computer pump controller actually has a filling mode that helps remove bubbles from the system as well.

fallguy · May 10, 2004

For your Aqua-Computer needs in the US, visit here: http://snt-systems.com/catalog/index.php

Great company, Ive talked with the only at great lengths many times.

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