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crimedog
04-07-04, 05:46 PM
This summer I'm gonna be playing around with some pelts. Since my case is already packed beyond belief, and I want best temps possible, I was thinking about an external box.
Components to go in it:
-2 2x120mm sized rads
-X blowers
-res (to be constructed)
-possibly pumps (not sure yet)

Anywho, I have a 2.1 system with a large sub, so I wanted to make it the same size as the width so it'll be almost hidden, this is about 7".

Attached is my idea for a box, but I want to know if my ideas on airflow are totally FUBAR or not. Blowers would be exausting, rest of box air tight. Any ideas?
Thnx guys
Dan

zip22
04-07-04, 06:34 PM
that seems like a pretty good idea. i like it

ls7corvete
04-07-04, 06:35 PM
I dont have any blowers but from what i have heard they dont like to suck through the radiators, might wanna look into that.

crimedog
04-07-04, 09:12 PM
there's no fundamental airflow problems with this?
pros please i beg you

diehrd
04-07-04, 10:00 PM
In my limited education I would say all would work well so long as the blowers have some power to them.Remember a furnace uses a blower that sucks it's air supply through ducts and filters.

JFettig
04-07-04, 10:07 PM
Originally posted by ls7corvete
I dont have any blowers but from what i have heard they dont like to suck through the radiators, might wanna look into that.

actually that is not true at all, in my experiment found it to do slightly worse than my ~90cfm sunnon. I later found out that I was mistaken and my blower was around 30-40cfm. BIG difference there.


Jon

crimedog
04-07-04, 10:41 PM
nice
my one concern is that air will only be pulled out of the "sides" attached is pic to explain

The Big One
04-08-04, 05:58 AM
really cool idea, but i also think that deadspots will be a problem

fletch
04-08-04, 09:27 AM
Hrm. To counter the deadspot somewhat, you could add an additional fan(s) on the top of the box?

slick
04-08-04, 12:40 PM
something like this?

it is a home depot tool box just the right size to fit all the components.

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/8382/entirecase.jpg

BIX Extreme up front, dual 120mm fans
BIX pro in back dual 120mm fans
vantec 4 fan fan controller
separte peltier cooling loop with peltier powersupply
relay to turn whole thing on with pc.
eheim 1060 main pump
hydor l20 for dedicated loop

its all take apart right now as i wanted to paint the case, gloss red, wasn't matching my black pc case.

sandwitch blocks are a custom middle copper water block, side blocks are maze3 blocks.
oh total cost so far ~$1000.
have picts of it in pieces if people are interested.

crimedog
04-08-04, 02:09 PM
that looks like a sick-ass setup slick, i'd love see pics and hear what your water temp is.
cost = ouch

i'm concerned about the blower properties on airflow, i know case fans w/ a shroud would work fine.

crimedog
04-09-04, 12:47 AM
Once I get moved into my mom's new house in FL (west palm beach if anyone's near there, I'll be a stranger in a strange land...) i'm gonna build this sucker out of mdf or plywood.
I'm gonna have two pumps feeding off a bay res (pumps are the grey things, res is the blue box). Two 'double' heatercores will be on the sides, airtight (not pictured because I lack the skills). Pumps' outflow will go into their respective radiator, and then it'll go out the side barbs (black dots on outside). The returning flow will come directly into the res which will have barbs protruding through the back (middle black dots).
There will be four Torin blowers (http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2004040723430662&item=16-1216&catname=) powered by a 16v inverter (http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2004040613181492&item=15-1158&catname=electric) . That should give a nice balance between flow and noise. The red circle is the 3-prong power input that will feed everything in the box.

The box will be these dimensions because then it'll fit right under my computer speaker's subwoofer. Sort of like the lian-li prommies except not nearly as sexy or cold. This will be cooling a maze4-1 cpu /w 226w tec for one loop, and a z-chip then maze4-1 with 80w tec for the gpu on the other loop.
I'm going to have to fabricate positions for 4 barbs in the back of my case so it'll unplug nicely.

Any thoughts or ideas? I've got a month or two before I build, so I can always change something.

Cytomax
04-09-04, 01:49 AM
thats a good idea i have actually been drawing up different designs to make an external cooling system.. be at it for like 2 weeks now..
not to hijack or anything but what progs you guys use to make all those cool pics... i know paint doesnt do some of that stuff..
Eddie

slick
04-09-04, 02:05 AM
Here is a picture with all the parts in the case, I dont have any of it put together, but one of the designs i wanted was all the electronics separtate from the water cooling hardware in case of leaks. a toolbox worked out the best as a peltier power supply and a 3.5" fan controller all fit easily in the top. probably won't be done until June.

http://img1.imageshack.us/img1/8684/PIC10.jpg

slick
04-09-04, 02:21 AM
cytomax -I made my image in paint, so it can be done it just takes time, and lots of cut&paste.

Crimedog- sorry to hijack this thread, been sitting on these images, and all my work has come from experience from this site.
I thought about using blowers, but radiators work much better with shrouded fans, i thought about a pass through, more passive design that it looks like you are considering, and it won't have as much effeciency for the design as other external units have. your picuter looks a lot like an external unit another forum member made. I am trying to incorporate some kind of dust filter right now so I don't have to worry about cleaning.

here is the case empty after a little dremel work and paint stripped:
http://img1.imageshack.us/img1/3607/empty.jpg

I will paint the whole thing flat black to match my case but right now this is an idea of what the front will look like:
http://img1.imageshack.us/img1/646/pic94.jpg

JFettig
04-09-04, 07:45 AM
slick, Im taking a look at the pelt chiller, and it looks like your trying to cool the water, then cool it some more, If the pelt chiller has enough power you will only be heating up the water by running it through a radiator. The water temp difference from going into the cpu block and back out will be about .5c, so there really wont be much precooling.

So if the pletiers have the power, run them on their own loop without a radiator and use both radiators to cool the water thats cooling the peltiers.

Jon

crimedog
04-09-04, 10:06 AM
i think you're misunderstanding his pics JFettig (gotta love MS Paint)
He has the left radiator cooling the hot sides, and the right rad taking out the heat from the loop and pump.
If it's a high wattage tec setup than the water could get below ambient though, and that second radiator would be best off cooling the tecs as well.

slick
04-09-04, 11:48 AM
your both kindof right, It is a dual loop system with one loop just for the peltiers. If i can get the electronics worked out , I wanted to be able to shut down the peltier side entirely (night time). Seen some other articles around here on how its not as a efficient, but 2 80w tecs at full amperage on there own dedicated powersupply is going to chill the water down way more than I want. thanks for the attention.

I'll be cooling an xp1700 (10x200), nbridge, and ati 9600 AIW
the blocks I'm using are all danger den, brass top rbx, nbridge,w/customm all copper top, older 9700 gpublock modified to fit.

I shortend all the barbs and soldered them to reduce leak points. I might have some pictures around somewhere of them.

this is my high end water cooling box. right now i have a heater core hooked up with an l30 pump and I'm getting 87 idle 95 load

here is the case, its up and running right now, my digital camera died and then got taken apart so no more pictures for a while.

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/2606/case.jpg

JFettig
04-09-04, 02:35 PM
no, I didnt misunderstand the picture, the water is going from the computer, through the pump, through the rad then through the chilled side of the pelt sandwich, then back into the computer. Most likely the water will be below ambient all the way around the loup, that being, the radiator would be adding heat and heating up the water.

I dont see any reason to be shutting down half of the cooling during the night, If you could work out the voltages just right to have the 'optimal' temp all the time that would probably be better and more efficient.


Jon

crimedog
04-09-04, 03:00 PM
oops, you're right JFettig

Slick, where'd you get those metal barbs and aluminum filters at?

slick
04-09-04, 03:19 PM
Not that it's anything to brag about but I live in Alaska, so, this project is partially doubling as my foot warmer during the winter :)

since i'm not running a really extreme system, the peltiers are something i want to play with in my watercooling setup. so if they were not running the radiator on the main loop would then be necessary.

thanks for the opinions, once it is all done I'll post my own thread with construction details.

-parts
the copper fittings are 3/8" 90 degree plumbing fittings, they barely fit inside 1/2" tubing,
the connection from inside to outside the case, is huge 1/2' barbed male/female hose adapters the threads are cut down, pipe goop was used to waterproof and they are cranked down tight.

the aluminum bracket is leftover lian-li side panel pieces from a different case.

for the fan grill i think i got it from case etc, I bought my parts a long time ago.
for the blocks I got all brass hose barbs, unthreaded them and cut down the barbs one notch.

for the gpu block i ordered copper from online metals and copied dangerdens plastic pattern for the nbridge top and made a new one out of coppper.

for the gpu block, i filed, cut, and grinded off large amounts of excess copper to make the block lighter and to fit around capacitors and such.

no really special barbs or parts used anywere.

Beast_USA
04-09-04, 03:59 PM
dd