Still a work in progress :)

[Rob Cork]

Some of you might have seen the pics I posted before the forum changeover of my clear reservoir. Well, since they got lost I thought I'd post some pics again. Of course, since then I've done a bit more, I've actually got the whole watercooling loop running fine now without any leaks. I've just had it running for 12hrs overnight and it's still fine.

There won't be a comp in the case for a couple of weeks yet though, as I still have to make the ducting for the radiator (it's gonna be ducted across the front, in one side and out the other). I've also got a bit of wiring to do, like the relay for the pump and a 12V/7V switch for the fans. And I do still want to paint the case if I have the money/time/inclination. Just thought I'd get these pics up anyway, enjoy :D

http://www.hcork.freeserve.co.uk/images/GW802/water1.jpg

http://www.hcork.freeserve.co.uk/images/GW802/water2.jpg

[Crazy Jayhawk]

Looks good so far. :)

[mudguts]

You got some great ideas Rob! Ducting that DD cube from side to side is innovative. How bout a clear top above the reservoir so we can see the pretty coolant? I started out like you, just gonna do one thing...then another , and another. Now I wanna build a plexi case from scratch with a hot rod style blower scoop on top and chrome exhaust pipes coming out the sides...maybe a Texmaster style paint job to push it over the edge!

Heres Texy's case...smooth huh?

[Crazy Jayhawk]

Originally posted by mudguts
You got some great ideas Rob! Ducting that DD cube from side to side is innovative. How bout a clear top above the reservoir so we can see the pretty coolant? I started out like you, just gonna do one thing...then another , and another. Now I wanna build a plexi case from scratch with a hot rod style blower scoop on top and chrome exhaust pipes coming out the sides...maybe a Texmaster style paint job to push it over the edge!

Heres Texy's case...smooth huh? Yes! You must put flames on it! :D

[Rob Cork]

Originally posted by mudguts
You got some great ideas Rob! Ducting that DD cube from side to side is innovative. How bout a clear top above the reservoir so we can see the pretty coolant? I started out like you, just gonna do one thing...then another , and another. Now I wanna build a plexi case from scratch with a hot rod style blower scoop on top and chrome exhaust pipes coming out the sides...maybe a Texmaster style paint job to push it over the edge!

Heres Texy's case...smooth huh?
Hehe, one step ahead of you mudguts... already got the top window done :)

This is an old pic without the reservoir installed yet - shows you the window though:

http://www.hcork.freeserve.co.uk/images/GW802/done.jpg

[mudguts]

heh heh...cant wait to see the side ducts Rob! Mod on brother! :D

[Xerka]

That resevoir looks great. What did you use to cut and glue your plexi glass stufff? I have been playing with some plexi glass lately, but I hate using it because my cuts look like crap.

[Rob Cork]

Originally posted by Xerka
That resevoir looks great. What did you use to cut and glue your plexi glass stufff? I have been playing with some plexi glass lately, but I hate using it because my cuts look like crap.
I used a fine-toothed modelling saw I had lying around to cut it - make sure you use something that is fine-toothed rather than coarse (like a hacksaw blade used for metal instead of one used for wood). I used one of the dremel sanding bits to sand the edges down to almost straight lines and then sanded them completely flat. I glued the whole lot together with epoxy, and it seems strong enough. I then sealed all the joins with silicone sealant to prevent leaks - and it works fine :)

[BF_TEXMASTER]

Very Nice work Rob! Can't wait to see the final version!

LOL Hiya Mudguts

Thanks for the promo :D

[Mord-Sith]

you should use aquarium glue it works realy well. Im sure your epoxy will be ok but aquarium glue is the best.

[Rob Cork]

Maybe I should have used aquarium glue. Since I lasted posted about the reservoir I've had nothing but problems getting it leak-free. As I said, I used my dremel and sandpaper to get the edges as close to square and straight as I could, then glued the whole lot together with epoxy. The problems seem to have started with the silicone sealant. The whole setup ran fine for about 48hrs non-stop with no leaks, then they began appearing. I suspect (though I don't know for sure) that the antifreeze is somehow attacking the silicone - I thought the silicone was supposed to be pretty inert but antifreeze is nasty stuff after all. It's definitely staining the silicone inside a nice dark blue colour :(

I've resorted to using plumbers epoxy to seal the joins now - it seems to be working much better, but it's a nasty brown colour. Thankfully with the top on the case, and through the window, you can't really see it. :rolleyes:

I haven't yet tested the repaired reservoir, but it's looking good so far. Just thought I'd pass the information on to anyone else intending to make a reservoir like mine - it looks good, but be prepared for a hell of a time sealing it! I hope I can get it done soon, I just got myself a 1.4GHz 266 bus AYHJA today, I wanna try it out :)

[scap]

I don't know if this would work but it a thought. you could use that RTV or whatever gasket sealent. that would prolly do it

[Rob Cork]

What's RTV? I've heard it mentioned but I've not seen it around, maybe you can't get it in the UK.

[mudguts]

Rob..you gotta find this stuff. Its absolutely the BEST way to glue plexi together. Ive used it to make very clean joints...they almost look like they arent even glued. It flows easily from the needle applicator by capillary action into all seems and is super stong. Ive even tested it under pressure in one of my rotary flow indicators and absolutely no leaks. Im sure you can find it in hobbie shops because plactic modelers have been using it for years.

[mudguts]

This is a pic of the applicator bottle I used. On the left is a glass applicator I have used for building plastic models. The stuff flows very easily like gasoline. Try this (http://www.modernmodels.com/HumbGlue.htm) this link. They have something called "precision poly" that sounds like it. This place (http://www.slatersplastikard.com/mekpak.htm) place sells it too. Sometimes it comes with a brush built into the cap...but I prefer the needle tip..more control and less mess. :D

[Rob Cork]

I'll try and get some of that if it's still leaking even after putting this plumber's epoxy on. It sounds like the 'ploystyrene cement' I used to use when modelling to glue plastic to plastic - it effectively melts the two plastics in contact and welds them together. Only thing is it's quite viscous, not thin like the stuff you're talking about, though I think I know where to get some thin stuff like that. The one worry I'd have is that it wouldn't stop leaks unless I can get all edges of the perspex pieces completely straight and square. This is pretty hard to do with the tools I have, though I guess I could do it with a bit of time. I'll bear it in mind though, cheers for the pics mudguts :)

[mudguts]

some of the cuts I made were not exactly flat and I ended up "lapping" them to get them flat. It cannot fill gaps very well.
Check my previous post...you responded so quickly and I was still working on getting them in there...you might have missed them. Goodluck Rob!

Oh..one more place to check...this place is like Mecca for plastic modelers...heh heh and I will pilgrimage there someday. Hannants. Here (http://www.hannants.co.uk/) it is.

[Rob Cork]

Well I certainly wasn't expecting this. I gave up trying to reseal the reservoir this morning, and pulled it all apart with the intention of squaring off the sides again, and getting rid of any gaps before even trying to glue it together. When cleaning up the pieces of perspex though, I noticed something funny... they have all warped, so they're no longer straight. Some are warped in both directions so they're concave now. It's not by too much, the center of the longest side is probably offset by about a millimetre from the edges, but that's a huge amount when we're talking about making it watertight. It does explain most of the problems I've been having - it appeared watertight at first, and then leaks started to appear after about 48hrs - and every time I think I've fixed one another appears. No doubt it's due to having warm water inside and cool air outside.

This is a bit of a problem (typical Brit understatement there :)). There's not much point in carefully sanding all the edges, and glueing it together again if it's just going to warp more and open up new leaks over time. Does anyone here have much experience working with perspex, and maybe know whether it's using for it to warp and if so by how much?

Any suggestions for how to overcome this problem? I'm pretty stumped at the moment, and I hope I can come up with something :(

[CrystalMethod]

I'd suggest using actual "Plexiglass™" or "Lexan™". Both are more temperature resistant, than perspex. Lexan™ being my product of choice.

[Rob Cork]

Cheers, I'll see if I can find either of those around. At the moment I'm trying to weld the pieces together with my soldering iron, but it's not quite hot enough so the joins aren't too strong. I'm going to try glueing it with epoxy again, then melting the edges together to make it watertight and strengthen it, but personally I doubt it'll work. It's kind of a last-ditch effort. I'll just have to look out for something else then - cheers :)

[KeyboardCowboy]

very nice,some very cool inovations

[CrystalMethod]

What about the sealant they use when they make aquariums? I saw that for sale in a pet store.

[fuzzba11]

Originally posted by mudguts
heh heh...cant wait to see the side ducts Rob! Mod on brother! :D

Oi! Side ducts are my patent!! Just installed two 60mm ones, last week, look really sweet, especially with my neon blue light glowing inside, but they make my case 100% wider! :p

(and yes, I will eventually have pics up!!)

[Rob Cork]

Nearly complete, just got to finish painting the front bezel and drives (another day or two), and tidy up the wiring inside (zip-tie it all so it's tidy and runs around the edges of the case). I think it looks pretty damn sexy at the moment, the paint job's turned out quite well. I just hope the reservoir doesn't warp once I get a heat source (cpu) warming the water up - and I hope that the cd drive below the reservoir doesn't heat it up too much either... hopefully I'll build the system Sunday if my mobo arrives tomorrow so I'll be able to post some preliminary results then.

As the song says, 'I'm so excited'... :D

[train22]

that's going to be one damn kewl case! I'm speechless!

[phiber]

Originally posted by train22
that's going to be one damn kewl case! I'm speechless!
the same thing except i am jealous
i really wish i could do things like that

[Rob Cork]

Cheers for the compliments - as long as it cools half as well as (I think) it looks, I'll be a happy man :)

[IFMU]

Just thought Id throw my 2 coppers in here.. When I was building my water cooling rig I tried using some anti-freeze type stuff. I was using it to connect the inside pump to the barb for the outside of the res, I ran it for a few days testing it and it also began eating at the epoxy that I used. I think that theres something in the anti-freeze that does it. So I would try to stay away from that and mixing it with the epoxy. I ended up just using a screw-on type attachment on the inside to help hold it in place, been working great there.

As far as the warping, maybe if you used some kind of metal frame on the outside to help support the plexi? Something to add a little extra stregnth to it. Just a thought...

[Rob Cork]

Thanks for the info - that could explain a lot. I've noticed the epoxy being stained blue by the antifreeze, maybe it is attacking it. I know my old system started leaking at the epoxied join to the inlet of the pump, and come to think of it that was soon after I put antifreeze in it - coincidence? Mind you, it ran fine without leaking after I repaired it for a good 2 or 3 months, so maybe it is ok... I'll definitely keep a close eye on it, if it seems to be the case I will have to come up with something else.

I thought as a last resort I could get one of those waterproof underground junction boxes and cut most of each side away, and use perspex to effectively replace the sides with - just leave the skeleton of the original box for strength. I'm sure I could make that work, and look pretty good, but it'd take some work and I don't know whether I could find a box the right size. Hmm... :rolleyes:

[IFMU]

Well keep us up to date on how it goes.... Like to hear how that stays together in the long haul...........