Heat is the enemy right?

[killem1x1]

So, If I take my air system stock HSK off, and put on the brand new Switech MC462 the UPS man just handed me, then I'll be able to go faster right?
My temps while running Seti are
79.5f Ambient and 109f
So how much can this lower my temps.
I must note that Seti alone is not heating up this system as much as when I run Seti and F@H at the same time, I was seeing around 113f when running both.
I'm off to install. I'll let you guys know how it turns out, and Oh BTW
I'm 1.4 @ 11.5X137@1.85=1578
All settings are as reported my MBM
CPUID staes 1575

[sfa ok]

You should be able to go faster, especially with that hsf. Let us know how it goes.

[killem1x1]

Wee, I've got some good news, and some bad news:
first the bad news,
While I was in the process of mounting this massive hunk of copper, I noticed that it comes with little plastic mobo hole covers. Although, the instructions (yes, I read them first) stated that if they didn't fit in the holes very easily, not to use them, So I proceeded to mount, then put my Shuttle AK32 back in, everything went well, and very fast. I must admit, even doing this monster of a heatsink operation is much faster than the most simple water install, albeit I'm much faster at pulling it all apart now as well. Anyway, It's looking sweet. I fired it up, and fans are running drives spin up, no POST, DAM*, I tried a couple of more times, even though I knew I did something wrong somewhere, and you guys that tweak your hardware lot's know what I mean. So I didn't even clear the CMOS, just oneof those things. I knew. When I pulled everything back down, there it was. Cut traces all around the mounting holes, but the instructions stated, blah, blah, whine whine. It's my fault. I should have used common sense, I should have gotten some nylon washers or something, but oh well, I'll get to work on soldering traces later tonight.
The good news:
I had a backup mobo. You guys probably think I'm nuts, but I buy two of everything except my video cards, yep two 1.4 birds, two mobos, although never identical, two HDD, two CD's everything, even two 450w PSU. I never want to be down longer than it takes me to install the bad component.
I grabbed my A7M266
wait you say, it doesn't have multiplier adjustments, how far will go with FSB alone? Well your about to find out. I noticed the A7M holes are already soldered around the holes so I don't ned to rig anything, I proceed with installation the exact way I did before. Man I'm feling good by now, my trusty backup system has paid off again, and I get to try out the so-called "best Northbridge available". I set it up for max DDR voltage, MAX I/O voltage, max vcore, pop it in, and turn it on.
I go straight in the BIOS, the mult is grayed out at 10.5, it seemes like it was kinda daring me to mess with the BUS. I sneered back and went straight to 150, I'm going for broke!
Boom, reboot, boot in win2k 150FSB on this first try!
My temps:
Well before you remember with the stock HSF combo I was at 107f with just Seti running, right now F@H i, Prime and Seti are all running to ensure I'm taxing this system and my temps are:

79.3f Ambient, and 92f under full load, the mobo is only 82f where it was at 86 before, but it's a different mobo. If anyone knows of a way to change the multiplier on this board please oh please hook me up. For now I'm gonna push this BUS 'till she won't post, and start working on my review of the best A7M266 Air cooled solution report. It's rock solid.
One other thing if you've read all of this do me a favor and reply, no matter what your reply states, just wanna know how long I kept your attention, I have prelim stuff done on the A7A266, and the Shuttle AK32, and I'll tell you this, I'm running faster with a FSB and a 10.5 multi, than I ever did on the Shuttle. That should tell you something about the Northside of this Mobo.
Have a good Sat night folks!

[killem1x1]

Just forgot to tell ya about the fan setup. I ordered this with the Delta, but they screwed up, and put he Sanyo Denki Part # 109P0812A201
I'm not sure of the cfm on this fan, but you can't hear it with the case on. All i hear is a very low, low, hummmm of my dual power supply fans.
Just kinda FYI stuff

[killem1x1]

Originally posted by Would71
Paint fumes are fun. :D

(you said any reply)

Ahhh, metallic black and chrome drive plates. Fun fun fun. Ran out of black, though. Might have to do the top of the case in the chrome paint, or go get a second can of metallic black.
Well, Would, are you bored? Or, was that some decent NfO?

[Richard]

Originally posted by killem1x1
If anyone knows of a way to change the multiplier on this board please oh please hook me up.

The only "easy" way I know of is to snag one of those, "golden socket" devices. I see plycon.com has them for sale. They are $50 a piece, and plycon claims they don't work with palominos. However, I have read a report of someone getting a dual tyan palomino rig working just fine with the golden sockets.

[wildbilly2k]

Well you said just reply if you kept my attention which you did and they really dont joke when they tell you stuff specially when amd puts in the warranty: Warranty void if this chip is used to be implented in the body!!! Well guess that sucks for your other mobo!!!

[funnyperson1]

Originally posted by wildbilly2k
Well you said just reply if you kept my attention which you did and they really dont joke when they tell you stuff specially when amd puts in the warranty: Warranty void if this chip is used to be implented in the body!!! Well guess that sucks for your other mobo!!!
they card you for spray paint???? haha...thats some funy shiznet...guess they probly wouldnt hook me up with any...:(

[killem1x1]

Originally posted by Richard


The only "easy" way I know of is to snag one of those, "golden socket" devices. I see plycon.com has them for sale. They are $50 a piece, and plycon claims they don't work with palominos. However, I have read a report of someone getting a dual tyan palomino rig working just fine with the golden sockets.

I had no idea these even existed for socket mobos. Thanks, I'm gonna have one here when I get back from Baltimore on Tuesday. I'm leaving in the morning. So you guys keep crankin out the watts while I'm gone!

PS Update on Temps
Still running F@H, Seti, and Prime Took the case off (working on a window), placed a boxfan on it, dropped down to 90f.
I think I've found the Ultimate Air setup.
Case on 92f
Off 90f
If anyone else is running cooler than this (with case on), please let me know what your seup is.
My case specs:
1 120MM Blowing directly on my NIC and Gf3
1 40MM intake, front bottom
1 40MM out the top-rear under the power supply
1 50MM pulling in power supply
1 50MM pushing out of power supply
4 20MM pulling in front of 2 HDD's(2 in front of each 1)
2 20MM pushing out behind 2 HDD's (1 behind each 1)
1 CPUFX Core chipset cooler on the NorthB
and ofcourse the HSF
All Ram is sinked, along with the Southside
I know alot of you will say I could do better with something blowing right on top of the HSF, but that isn't true with this HSF, I tried it, not one degree difference, So, give it up for the MC462-A w/Sanyo Denki.
As I don't have the actual fan specs noted, but will give them out in detail next week, but for anyone who thinks that tis is loud, your are wrong. With the cover on, you can hardly notice the low hum. All fans are mounted with plastic and rubber, no metal on metal. All drives are grommet mounted - "floating" with ground straps running to the case.
The only thing you hear is the 120, but it's a computer, lighten up ;)
Next up:
The ultimate water closed mid-tower, and then on to the pelts. I've got all of the materials so anyone in the Bham, AL area that's in this scene drop me a line, and come help out!

[Iron Prophet]

So you want to know how to change the multiplier.... Well It isn't all that difficult if you don't mind doing some soldering on your mobo. You see for some godly reason ASUS decided not to put a dip switch on the motherboard but on the motherboard itself they show the adjustments for using different multiplier settings.

http://www.overclockersonline.com/images/articles/a7m266/large/multipltable.JPG

Ironic huh they tells us how to but makes a solder on a dipswitch and some new resistors... Ah but now you say well I don't know if I want to solder on my mobo and get some ****ing awesome OC'ing speeds. Especially with no guide to doing the soldering. Well your in luck some nice guy out there has helped us all out by making a step by step guid to what to solder and where to solder. Oh and good luck in finding the resistors it took me a long time and a magnifiying glass to find them.

[Iron Prophet]

ASUS is out to make us toil for hours and find out what we did wrong or just so we don't mess with the multiplier but here it is the print on the board says that switch 5 has to be "OFF" to enable the multiplier setting via the dipswitch. This is wrong! Switch 5 must be in the "ON" position in order to change the multiplier. Pin 5 always has to stay in "ON".

[Iron Prophet]

My bad forget to give you the link to the web page with the step by step guide. Well here it is THE LINK (http://www.overclockers.com.au/techstuff/a_a7m266_mod/)

[Mick]

They ask for I.D. in the land of the free just to make sure your not dead!!

[Crazy Jayhawk]

Originally posted by Would71
I just got carded for spray paint.. some night this is turning out to be! LOL!

(umm, hello old Wal-Mart lady.. I turn 30 next month) Gotta love how spray paint is right up there with cigarettes and beer as stuff you have to be old enough to buy. :p