MCW50-T Concerns, Advice?

Hi,

I'm thinking of getting the Swiftech MCW50-T. Sounds like it comes with all the necessary mounting hardware & condensation precautions.

My concerns.......I want to just add this to my current loop. I have a Hydor L30 pump, CPU WB (RBX) all w/1/2 tubing. I have the Antec True Control 550W PS that has a 12v line you can plug directly into. (This is where I plan on plugging the MCW50-T into, which I think will be fine.) I have the Jr-120 Hi-Performance rad from Dtek, (basically a 78 chev. heatercore). I am currently using distilled water & water wetter as an additive.

Anyone see conflicts with what I want to do?! I still have to see if the tubing will reach & bend down to the graphics card........I hate to sound like a newb, but pelts & subzero like temps just are not my area of expertise.

Any input would be greatly appreciated, Thanks in advance!!

-ºb§

I own one and i think its great. You should be able to put it on your current psu stock. But if you get a better pelt like a 172 i recommend a meanwell 12v psu. On my meanwell i run my fans for the water case, the tec, and my prommie. You shouldnt worry too much about sub-zero temps, just sub amibent. Be sure to insulate with dielectric grease and neoprene foam. Good luck.

How/Where would you insulate with dielectric grease on chips such as the gpu and nb? you can't remove them to put it in the sockets and such. Or i could be completely wrong.

Not sure about the NB & where to put dielectric grease. But I know for the GPU you add the dielectric grease around the GPU, but not outside of the shim.

But if you get a better pelt like a 172 i recommend a meanwell 12v psu

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That is exactly why I figured the Swifty would be perfect because it's a low watt pelt.

Thanks for the response. Don't know if I will actually do this. I need to save my money........STRONGLY considering though.

Not sure about the NB & where to put dielectric grease. But I know for the GPU you add the dielectric grease around the GPU, but not outside of the shim.

Click to expand...

You actually should spread di-electric grease all over the card, front and back, to help the neoprene form an air-tight and air-bubble free seal with the card. A strong enough peltier will cool the entire card's PCB, and you're better safe then sorry. Go heavy with the dielectric grease, you don't want your video card to rust .

I have a 172W peltier under my Maze 4-1 GPU water block, and it ran fine on 12V in my system, with my Antec True Power 550W Powr supply. The standard 172W Peltiers that come in a 40X 40mm size are 24V peltiers, meaning that they operate at less than half efficiency on 12V, which is what you use if you don't have a 24V Power supply.

On 12V, a 172W peltier runs at about ~66W, drawing about ~5.5A from your 12V rail. Your TrueControl 550W can handle that easily. I should also add that the "80W" Peltier provided with the MCW 50T kit is intended to be run on 16V, meaning that it only runs at about ~50W on 12V, drawing about 4.2A. As you can see, the power draw isn't much different between the two when run on 12V.

With my 172W peltier running at 12V, my 9800 Pro card at stock speeds ran at about 13 degrees celcius load; it idled at about 6 degrees celcius. With the peltier on 22V, my card idles at -5 degrees celcius, and loads at 3 degrees celcius, at stock speeds and voltages.

If you can afford it, you want to get a 172W peltier. You can upgrade and use a 24V PSU later to icnrease its cooling potential, and it is superior even on 12V to the 16V / 80W Peltier most kits come with.

About affording it all; a better choice over the Swiftech peltiered GPU block would be the Danger Den one. The Maze 4-1 integrates a proper coldplate to keep your temperatures stable (peltiers fluctuate in efficiency, and the coldside temperature can jump about a little bit; a coldplate acts as an "equalizer"), and it also comes with pre-cut neoprene pieces. And, if you email Danger Den before ordering, you can request to upgrade the 80W peltier that comes with the kit to a 172W peltier, for a measly $12. Whatever way you look t it, the Danger Den setup ends up being cheaper, and better/easier to implement, especially when it's your first foray into peltiers.

Anyways, to sum up this long post, I'll say this: You *do not* need a seperate PSU to have a very effective peltier setup, a peltier on your GPU will greatly aid your card overclocking, and peltiers are a ton of fun, you won;t regret making the leap

hi felinusz, i wanted to ask where you put your temp sensor on the card, and also i have dd4 gpu with 80w tec but was getting high temp readings, someone suggested it might be the block not being able to cope with tec, any advice?