search for copper heater cores

I just finished a bunch of research and thought I'd give y'all a heads up. I've been looking for an all-copper '77 Bonneville heater core (or any other good core). After many phone conversations, net research, and driving all over h*** and back to see supposedly "all-copper" cores I found out a few things.
First, it appears that there are no longer any companies manufacturing all-copper cores. ACDelco, Stant, NAPA, Modine, Fedco/TransPro/ReadyAir no longer make them. All currently manufactured cores (non-aluminum) are made using a process called CuproBraze which uses brass tanks and copper fins. This process is much cheaper and the cores themselves are stronger. (see here...http://www.smp-training.com/Counter...ges/heat18.html)
For our purposes however, THIS SUCKS!! If any of you are finding all-copper heater cores out there I suggest you snap them up, 'cause once they're gone, that's it buddy!
'Course, I could be wrong here, and there may be some manufacturer out there who's pumping them out by the thousands every day, but if there is I sure couldn't find him. If anyone knows of a place to order a for-sure all copper core I'd appreciate it if you'd let me know.
Some of the copper/brass cores look like they're copper if you don't know what you are looking for. I can't tell you how many times some dimwit auto store clerk said "Oh yeah, it's copper fer sure" and I find out when I get there that it's brass.
Anyway, I've been wondering if I should keep my copper/brass core or just go ahead and get a Black Ice Pro II dual 120mm fan radiator. At least that ones copper. Any thoughts?

how can you tell if it's brass/copper? thanks

You can tell very easily on some because the caps and sides are bright yellow. On some though there is splotchy copper color on parts of the sides and/or caps. The sure way to tell is just to scratch the cap/side with a pocket knife or key. Copper will look, well....like copper! Brass is a shiny, bright yellow/gold'

I wouldn't sweat it buddy, there's so little difference in performance because the brass is thinner than the copper which offsets any performance difference.
Brass is over 90% copper anyway (closer to 97%), so it's definately NOT going to start battery effect corrosion problems.
The cooling power is in the fins, not in the tanks or sideskirts. The copper is still where it's needed.

And also, from the things I see some people do to the poor things, a little added strength surely isn't a bad thing.

i agree with diggerr all copper is cool but sometimes unless you have alot of cash in your bed. spend what you can and know the metals before freaken out

Thanks guys. I understand the metals and I've seen charts showing the relative heat transfering capabilities of copper, brass, bronze, aluminum, silver, diamond etc. but the collective wisdom I'd read was that the brass cores were also more difficult to mod due to the thin case and the barbs on the pipes. I'm just gonna try with the one I have. Put a couple of small pieces of copper 5/8 pipe>5/8 to 1/2 fnpt>1/2 mnpt to 1/2 brass hose barb. I'll let ya know how it works out.

I had little trouble modding mine....over and over.
Over time I've cut down the tubes, removed the tubes and placed 3/8" NPT barbs on the holes, replaced the tubes with 5/8" copper pipe and added 1/2" MNPT barbs soldered over top of the tube's ends (the brass fitting's ID is a perfect 5/8" fit). I've also soldered and desoldered a couple of copper fan shrouds until I found one I like (3" deep).

Big fun. Just don't hold the torch on for very long or you may get a leak at the edge of the tank next to the tubes (been there, pain to fix).
It's not a bad idea to fill it with water, and let it drain down to the edge of the holes, then solder as you wish with it propped upright.
The water helps keep the tank seam cool enough to not desolder durring the mods you make at the holes.

Have fun, be safe, scare the neighbors! :thumbs up:

Hey thanks for the info on the 1/2 barbs, Diggr. Sounds like I can avoid the adapter all together!

No prob, if you can get to a belt sander, you can take the unsightly and unused threads off to really make them look custom. Just solder them to the pipes first for a handle. Brass will load up a grinder wheel, so that's not advised.
Mine hangs in the basement, so I couldn't care less how it looks.

Might wanna take a piece of deburred 5/8" (1/2" copper=5/8" OD) pipe with you shopping to make sure the brand they carry fits like mine did.

G'night all!