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Another starter system thread!

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CaelStar1

Registered
Joined
Jun 1, 2004
Okay, this is another starter system thread, but I already have all of my equipment in the mail on the way here, so I'm about a step and a half in front of most first timers :) I'm going to see if I can get my camera from my girlfriend (lol) to chronicle my (mis?)adventure in installing it. Some things are a little different from the conventional setup, however.

First of all, I have an Ahanix Noblesse case. It's a mid tower, and there's not much room on the inside for the heatercore I'm going to use. I do, however, have a busted 5 CD-Changer that I gutted to use as an external case. The case is something like 15"x 17" x 4". I figured I could cut square holes in the top and bottom, the one on the top big enough for the fan (it would actually stick partially through the hole) and the bottom hole the same size as the heatercore's fin area. There is enough area for the pump to go into the case also. Since the case is much wider than the case the computer is in, if I put the ventilation holes on the side, the computer case could sit on top of the external water case.

Questions: Would sealing/insulating around sides of the h/c be good, as long as the front/back of it were clear? I'd like to isolate it from any heat the pump would put out. Should I make the top hole as large as the h/c itself, or just the fan? (A shroud will be used, btw) And, how much of a problem will it be if the lines have to run about 1' up to the waterblock?

Thanks :)
 
What's the total length of tubing that you are using? And what type of blocks? The external box is the new hot topic nowadays, everybody's making them. Probably because everyone found out that upgrading/changing stuff while a WC setup is installed is a real PITA. Anyways, need some more info. IMO Insulating the WB sides would not be a problem as long as there is unrestricted air flow through the rad and *out* of the box. Clean air in, dirty air out if you will.

Froz.
 
I'm using a DD TDX. I'm guessing that there will be about a foot from the h/c to the WB, another foot from the WB to the pump (Hydror L30), and maybe 6-8" of tube from the pump to the radiator depending on how the Tygon tubing flexes. I was going to put the t-line in the box too, but I don't know how it'll work refilling the system from the lowest point :eek: I'm trying to minimize the number of tube-device-tube connections inside the case for some extra leak protection.
 
You'd want as much open area around the heater core as possible, and if everything is enclosed, just make sure that large gaps are sealed somehow. The sides of the changer when assembled shouldn't be a big deal.

Just try to keep tubing lengths low as well. Sounds like a good system.
 
Just a tip - buy more tubing than you're going to need. I guarantee you'll find yourself using it at one point or another.
 
Okay, that raises a good question: How much tubing would be too much? I'm running 1/2" tubing. I bought 8' of Tygon, I don't see myself using more than 4' really, but you never know :)
 
You should be good with that. The reason I brought it up was that when I first routed my tubing, I botched the job completely, and had to redo almost all of it. I ended up using all but 6" of the 10' of tubing that I had bought. Even the most well prepared people can still do some really stupid stuff - myself a shining example.
 
Okay, all of my gear is here. Unfortunately I'm really busy until Sunday at the earliest. I'd like to post pictures of my escapade, but I need hosting. Where's popular for that?

Last minute questions:
Should I use RTV sealant on the hoses on the H/C, or is it okay just using the plastic clamps? The L30 pump has 2 screw-in barbs, should I RTV the threaded side and/or the barb side?
Distilled water and blue antifreeze will keep the system clean, or do I need the pet store anti-algae solution as well?
 
You shouldn't need anti-algae solution. As for the clamps, some people have had bad experiences with them, but I've never had any trouble whatsoever with mine. Crimp them down tight with pliers and they'll never come off or leak. Just make sure the clamp is seated behind the raised portion of the barb. A lot of first-timers can't seem to grasp that concept. Can't really help you with the pump, though.
 
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