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Why not use 3/8"ID tubing on 1/2" barbs?

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Cyrix_2k

Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2003
Location
Frederick, MD
As 1/2" barbs have a ID of 3/8", why not use 3/8" tubing throughout the whole system, excepting the pump intake? I don't see how it would hurt performance as it should have basically the same flow restriction as the narrowist point in the system determines that, right? It would make the rig look nicer and it would be easier to plumb with the smaller tubing too, so why don't we use it?
 
Thats a good question actually. And yes the most restrictive part in the system determines the flow rate. The water wont accelerate and de-accelerate in a close system.
 
If the narrowest point in the system determined the flow, the few lucky people with Cascade blocks wouldn't have any flow at all.

Flow restrictions and impediments are additive. All the little things that impede flow add up, tubing is just an cheap and easy place to start improvements. The restriction of a foot of half inch tubing plus a barb with a 3/8" ID is less the that from a foot of 3/8" tubing and the same barb.

Plus, it would be a huge pain to try to stretch tubing that much. 1/2" over 5/8" barbs is possible, but 3/8" over 1/2" would really suck.
 
A couple things need to be addressed here. First, the flow rate is a product of the sum of the total restrictions in a system. If you have a massive restriction in your system, say a Whitewater or Cascade, then adding more smaller restrictions in the cooling loop will lower your flowrate even more.

Fluid in a closed loop actually does accelerate and decelerate depending on the cross sectional area of the tube it flows through. Take a garden hose, for instance. The cross sectional area of the hose is constant throughout its length, so the water travels at the same velocity through it. But when you place a nozzle (or just your finger) over the end of it, the water leaves the hose with a much higher velocity. The rest of the water in the hose still travels at the same velocity it did before, though. What remains constant is the flow rate, the volume of fluid per second.

The advantage of larger diameter tubing comes in when you take into account the friction that is caused by the interaction between the water and the walls of the tube. Larger diameter tubes have less surface area exposed per unit volume of water, which results in less restriction. Less restriction in the cooling loop means that the centrifugal pump can operate more efficiently, which means a higher flowrate. The water in a 1/2" diameter system can actually have a lower velocity than a comparable 3/8" system while still having a much higher flowrate. Since flowrate is far more important than water velocity, especially with modern die impingement blocks, 1/2" tubing will inevitably outperform 3/8" tubing.

This is pretty much the CliffNotes version of things. If you really want to get into the nitty gritty aspects of one-dimensional flow, a good place to start is cpufan's post here: http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?p=2815392#post2815392 . If you read that and still want more, then you're definitely beyond the scope of these forums - I'd recommend a fluid dynamics textbook.

Hope this helps!
 
Plus, it would be a huge pain to try to stretch tubing that much. 1/2" over 5/8" barbs is possible, but 3/8" over 1/2" would really suck.

Boil some water. Take the pot. Dip the tube in wait 30 seconds to a minute or more and put it on the barb. Good luck getting it back off tho. I do it for our pool filters barbed fittings.

JT
 
A-Speck said:
If you really want to get into the nitty gritty aspects of one-dimensional flow, a good place to start is cpufan's post here: http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?p=2815392#post2815392 . If you read that and still want more, then you're definitely beyond the scope of these forums - I'd recommend a fluid dynamics textbook.

Mr. Speck. I didn't address losses in the post to which you have linked. I only answered a question from a forum member regarding laminar vs. turbulent flow in the tubing. I have addressed losses due to friction and fittings in other threads, but it isn't necessarry to link to one since you have explained the ideas quite well right here.
 
You have to keep in mind that flow friction losses are a function of diameter AND length. A-Speck is basically correct in what he said in that it's the suface area per unit volume of the tubing that basically affects flow in the tube. So for a specific length, larger dia. tubing will have less losses even if some points in the system are restricted to a smaller dia.
 
Actually, Metalwave brings up a good point here. Length of tubing is important! The longer your tubing, the more flow resistance you have. So keep tubing lengths short! This is especially important for anyone with an external watercooling setup.
 
I used 3/8" tubing on 1/2" barbs. Always have and always will. No clamps, nothing to leak. My little Maxi Jet 1200PH (295GPH?) pumped out a TC4, Innovatek GF4, a Gerwin style passive cu radiator (around 20ft of 3/8" copper tubing), all with 3/8" tubing and still had something left over.
 
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