Major cooling problem

[J0hnnyBrav0]

I have a major cooling problem with my system...I do not understand whats wrong!

My system at a glance:
A7M266 (audio) 133MHz
1.2 GHz t-bird C code
256MB Micron RAM@ cas2
Thermaltake super orb (trimmed slightly to clear capacitors)
CA-703 case (aluminum, mid-tower, built in CPU fan box and case fan)
Asus v8200 dlxe GF3
2 ibm 60gxp drives, promise raid card
ati tv-wonder
one dvd drive
realtek nic

With the system idling the temperatures are:
CPU: 60 C
Mobo: 47 C
GF3 card:
Chipset: 70 C
RAM: 54 C

Ambient temp: 28 C

Now I checked the airflow with some toilet paper and I have all 7 fans blowing in the correct directions....I used the white grease Tt supplied with the super orb (I used about 1.5mm covering the surface of the the CPU)
The cooler is firmly attached to the CPU, I have an extra fan above the cooler supplying extra air to the top of the cooler and my case is in an open enough spot beside my monitor. Why on earth am I getting such high temps compared to others who post here?

[bdf24]

Don't feel bad. I've got my 1.2 gig running @ 1.333mhz. CPU temp right now at idle is 60C, system temps is 27C. And this is with an SK-6 HS with an 80mm fan on it. I believe I've got major air flow problems in the case though. I'm gonna try turning all my fans around to bring in fresh air from the back and out the front. Maybe that'll bring in enough fresh air right over the cpu to cool it down some.

[William]

Asusprobe reports times about 5-10C too hot though you still have some high temps. Your big problem is the Superorb, its not really cut out to cool a 1.2ghz. If your an Orb fan the Dragonorb3 is much much better although the SK-6 and Glaciator are both much better.

[J0hnnyBrav0]

The super orb is bad? If thats my problem why does it rate so well at tomshardware, versus 45 other fans?
http://www6.tomshardware.com/cpu/01q2/010521/cooler-29.html

[Karsta]

Is that 28 ambient room temperature or case temperature?

I think that because your GF3 is running a bit warm also there could be something you could do to improve air flow through the case. My Asus GF3 deluxe runs about 48°-50°/33° with room temp of 25° (case 0°-2° more) looping 3D Mark 2000.

edit: Forgot to mention that this with two 120mm fans -one in front for intake and another on top for exhaust. Intake is slowed down for less noise. Lots of fans doen't necessarily mean good flow through.

Do you have power saving options turned off? If you have Windows to turn off your display when idle, it will also turn off the fan of display card which then heats up.

[J0hnnyBrav0]

I get:
CPU: 65 C
mobo: 49 C
video chipset: 74 C
video RAM: 54 C

room temp is: ~30 C

running Unreal Tournament for 3 hours.

Idling my temps drop to:
CPU: 60 C
mobo: 47 C
video chipset: 70 C
video RAM: 54 C

My room could be hotter, but it seems like even after 3 hours of intense (full effects, highest resolution) gaming on a full server, my temps are hardly affected at all...now I'll take off the sides and top panel of my comp to see the difference...if the temp. drops a lot then I know my expensive case needs some tweeking. Otherwise what could it be?

[Karsta]

With motherboard temp 19° over room temperature there has to be something seriously wrong with your case cooling setup. The positive side is that HS/fan seems to do pretty decent job - C/W somewhere around 0.25? And it seems plausible to me that temperature probe reports correct values for CPU.

With case open you still need active cooling to get the heat off the vicinity of CPU etc.

[chaosdriven]

Originally posted by J0hnnyBrav0
I have a major cooling problem with my system...I do not understand whats wrong!

My system at a glance:
A7M266 (audio) 133MHz
1.2 GHz t-bird C code
256MB Micron RAM@ cas2
Thermaltake super orb (trimmed slightly to clear capacitors)
With the system idling the temperatures are:
CPU: 60 C
Mobo: 47 C
GF3 card:
Chipset: 70 C
RAM: 54 C

Ambient temp: 28 C


OK, I will list some suggestions...

1. Get rid of that white silicon stuff and use Artic Silver...

2. Get a better HSF combo : Millenium Glaciator or Thermalright SK6

The Glaciator is very heavy and you are supposed to remove it when you transport your PC, but it's RELATIVELY quiet. I hear the Delta that usually comes with the Thermalright is a real screamer.

3. Take one of your 120mm(high velocity?) fans and mount it to blow outside air directly onto the CPU and adjacent motherboard components. This will require cutting a hole in your case.

Let us know how it goes.....

[J0hnnyBrav0]

Originally posted by chaosdriven

3. Take one of your 120mm(high velocity?) fans and mount it to blow outside air directly onto the CPU and adjacent motherboard components. This will require cutting a hole in your case.

Let us know how it goes.....

Well, I do have outside air directly on the cpu cooler...using an 80mm fan in a redirection box, which is speeding up my 2 cpu cooler fans by about 100 rpm each.

After I remove the 2 sides and the top of my case this is the idle temps:
CPU: 53 C
mobo: 42 C
video chipset: 66 C
video RAM: 49 C

now does this mean my supposedly high performance aluminum case is not doing the job they said it would?

[chaosdriven]

I plan to eventually build a duct as mentioned on one of the articles here so that the 120mm fan only cools the CPU.

Here is what I mean....

[chaosdriven]

I think you might be best off just trying the artic silver and a better cooler first...

[Karsta]

Yes, lower temperatures with case open indicate that you have problems with case.

Because you have high temperatures in all components the first thing to try is not buying a better heatsink for CPU! Better heatsink doesn't help much if it doesn't get cool air.

I think it is good to get temperature inside the case in vicinity of room temperature.

[Warlord2]

wow those are some high motherboard temps

when I first got my cheap $40 case I only had 2 80mm fans and that kept my mobo around 41c
and that is in a hot climate around 100f outside and no AC on....

I dont think I believe those readings

I wouldnt worry about the mobo reading but get a better heatsink if you plan on overclocking at all

65c should be fine + fall is coming so it should drop alot

[J0hnnyBrav0]

Hmm...and here I thought I bought a very good cooler and case :/ It does so well in comparison tests though...thanks for the info guys.

here is my open case with a 12" fan blowing into it (idle):
CPU: 44 C
mobo: 34 C
video chipset: 57 C
video RAM: 44 C

and the temp. with just the sides and top off (idle):
CPU: 53 C
mobo: 42 C
video chipset: 66 C
video RAM: 49 C

and the temp. with the sides and top on (idle):
CPU: 60 C
mobo: 47 C
video chipset: 70 C
video RAM: 54 C

and finally the temp. with the gf3 and CPU on load (UT):
CPU: 65 C
mobo: 49 C
video chipset: 74 C
video RAM: 54 C

edit: Even with those high temps it has performed flawlessly...until I overclock the FSB over 145MHz, then windows won't even load!

[Karsta]

It isn't so bad. Your system seems to do quite well with high temps (now I know that I don't have to worry about my high GF3 temperatures;)). After you have done some experimenting with fan positioning I guess you may well overclock it.

The best setup is not maybe easy to find. There are some common guidelines:
-don't position the fans so that they work against each other (in from one side, out from other)
-clear the path air travels: rounded cables, bunching cables etc. less turbulence is more efficient and lowers noise. Although fan filters keep dust away they also reduce airflow signicantly.

For me ducting with 51 CFM fan directly to heatsink hasn't lowered CPU temp but only raised GF3 and MB temp because the duct is hindering airflow in the rest of the case. Some other people have been luckier with ducting, though.

For me having fans blowing from the side have adverse effect on cooling because they for some reason work against the well functioning air path from lower front to top of case. But because it seems to be common to have fans blowing also from side it can obviously work.

I get better cooling case closed - whole case works as a big duct in a sense (midi tower). With side open the front fan pushes air mostly directly out from the open side and CPU HS/fan doesn't get as much cool air.

[wildbilly2k]

make sure your cpu doesnt hit 95c cause it will die and you will have a new keychain!

[Thelemac]

Originally posted by J0hnnyBrav0
The super orb is bad? If thats my problem why does it rate so well at tomshardware, versus 45 other fans?
http://www6.tomshardware.com/cpu/01q2/010521/cooler-29.html

For one thing, they controlled the room temperature instead of measuring it right at the cpu (since temp varies througout a given space, it can never be a control variable) and just give the temp.

Another thing that isn't mentioned is the processor type, or, more specifically, the wattage given off by the cpu. This is important because small differences are more significant with lower wattages, and are more prone to error. There is also a point at which a hsf will stop being effective in terms of wattage...once you hit that point, it no longer will work up to expectations.

In regards to your case, it can only work as well as you let it work. Meaning you have to put fans in and design the airflow for optimum cooling. Read the article that Hoot recommends in the Sticky at the top of the Cooling board for more information on good design.

There is also the fact that the in-socket thermistor is just plain bad for use as a temp indicator. It's ok to use to make sure you're not going to kill your cpu anytime soon, but other than that, it really isn't. Typically, for an AMD cpu you don't want it to run more than 60C given by in-socket, which accounts for discrepencies.

Finally, my suggetions for how to improve your temps:

Get a new hsf. As suggested the Glaciator and SK-6 are good. You could also go water cooling (though that's quite a bit more work and money).

Get better airflow (though you've already figured that one out)...your case will perform up to expectations if you give it a chance to.

Judge your temps more by your stability and how high you can overclock than by the monitor...but if you see temps like you are now, definately get them down first. In this case, cooler case temps.

[ve6jhc]

Forget using the Asus Probe temp. readings. Buy a cheap dual range digital temp. gauge from Radio Shack. Cut off the standard temp wires and solder on a pair of thermistors. Place one on your CPU (beside the die) and the other one tape to the metal of your case drive bays. I had temp. problems with an Asus A7V and I tried over 10 different heatsinks and lots of different fans with only 4-7 degree temp. changes. When I install my Radio Shack temp. gauge I found out that I didn't have a temp. problem at all.

[Hoot]

From your picture:

Move that CD unit up to the top bay.

Tidy up your cabling, especially ribbon cables, so that they don't influence the air pathway as much.

Get a fan going on both the front and rear of the case. The higher the cfm, the better. If that does not help then consider adding a
"Blow Hole" above the CPU. A 92mm would be a good choice. There are some which deliver good airflow without being too loud

Once you have your case to the point where running it with the cover on or off has a negligible impact of temps, then you can evaluate whether the HSF you are using can be improved upon.

Hoot