How do you bleed, leak test with MCP600?

My hydor L30II started making a terrible ratteling noise that I could not seem to fix. The impeller was set in correctly and looked it over carefully, but was not able to determine what was making the racket. I decided to buy a MCP600 rev2 since I have read all good things about the pump on this forum. My question is how do bleed and leak test with the MCP600 since it has to hook directly up to your PSU. With the hydor it was very easy to just plug it in and run it without running my system. I do have another PSU that I could run it off of until I think everything is ok. Is that how everyone else does it? Looking for ideas/suggestions, thanks.

Yea, just use the ATX pin trick to start it without a mobo and do that.

Jump pins 4&5 to turn on the PSU. However, remember to NOT run the MCP600 dry, at all.

Jumstart your atx PSU, just unplugg it from the mobo, use a wire or a foldout paperclip and connect the green wire with a black one. Do NOT do this with an AT psu, and as stated above make sure your MCP600 has enough water in the intake before you start it.

Thanks guys, I'll do that. I also believe I found the reson why all these hydors are making the ratteling sound after some use. There is just enough wiggle between the shaft and the impeller that after awhile the impller hole that slide over the shaft becomes distorted. Like the outline of a figure 8 as it begins to bang into one spot and wear it down.

I just swapped out my Rev1 pump head to a Rev2 pump head on my MCP600. I noticed a couple differences right off the bat, after taking them both apart. The first thing I noticed was that the impellar shaft on the Rev2 had a notch in it, and also that it had an extra disk spacer near the base. The second and most suprising thing I noticed was that the pump head itself was quite a bit bigger in diameter, almost filling the pump head housing completely, whereas the Rev1 was about 1/3" short from missing the sidewalls. I was also concerned at first when I took the brand new Rev2 pump head apart because I noticed some scratching or scoring around some of the port holes. After installing the new Rev2 head on my MCP600 mag body, I used a spare PSU with a jumper wire to start my leak testing. It has been leak testing for about an hour so far, and looks like it's going to be just fine. The best way to prime the MCP600 in a Tline system is to suck the liquid through the back end of the system. I had to fill my resevoir and then let liquid flow into the system, and then refill several times before I even turned on the pump. Dry running even for a few seconds can damage the pump severly. One of the first indicators of damage is a noticable increase in noise. The second would be a noticable loss of flow....yeah, rocket science I know....lucky I told you guys

I got it installed and jumped the pins. Worked great. This MCP600 is so much more quiet than the hydor. There is no way to hear it if you have any fans running.