Anyone with access to a pressure tesing equipment look here

pwnt by pat · Jun 21, 2004

I am asking anyone with pressure testing equipment and any kind of cube radiator to find the pressure that these rad's are capable of. I need to know of they will do 400ish psi.

Thanks.

Edit: I called dangerden and they don't have spec's on their cube radiators anymore. I also would like to know the dissipation value of the cube rads. I don't need to worry about pressure drop at all.

arabarabian · Jun 21, 2004

400 psi? That sure is alot. Mind sharing with us what it will be used for?

pwnt by pat · Jun 21, 2004

I'm planing out a waterchiller with the help of the members of phase-change.com. I want to build a box that will sit below my case similar to some external watercooling boxes. Instead of having a condensor and giant fan sticking out on the side of the case, I was hoping to use watercooling radiators - the cube ones because they are copper tubing and heatercores can't take the pressure of a refridgeration system, usualy around 300psi. I could use a standard condensor below the case but that would raise the case over foot higher than it already is. And if the rad's can take the pressure, I could use two to four of 'em as the condensor and stilonly have to raise the case about 9 inches. My goal was to make it portable.

Diggrr · Jun 21, 2004

I belive they were origionally made as condenser units. Of course, believing and knowing are two different things.... :eh?:

Sorry I can't be of more help than that.

Turbokeu · Jun 22, 2004

I use a BeCooling Aquacoil II cube rad and it's made of solid 3/8" copper tubing.
I'm fairly sure about the copper tubing at that pressure, but not so sure about the solderings on the bends...

CD

pwnt by pat · Jun 22, 2004

Can you tell if the bends are soddered or brazed?

Turbokeu · Jun 23, 2004

pwnt by pat said:
Can you tell if the bends are soddered or brazed?

I'm (again) fairly sure that they are brazed, as I worked as an household technician (refrigerators) about 25 years ago, and it doesn't look like the soldering I'm using actually on the copper in my loop.

My cube rad looks (I even think it is the same) as the last one in this page :

CD

ares350 · Jun 23, 2004

400 psi! thats a limited group that can even get a compressor that does 400psi, most top out at 125 maybe 150. I have a THICK cast iron pressure pot for casting urethane that only holds 60psi before it leaks. 400psi sounds too high for any tubing, figure the bends in the pipe are stretched, that would be the weak point, Id be suprised if it held 100psi.

I cant think of any place that they would get 400psi to point you in a direction to get a part. maybe hydroulics, but I dont know if they use radiators in the pressurized parts of the loop.

sandman001 · Jun 23, 2004

It won't hold 400 PSI. Hell, alot of compressors rupture at that pressure.

pwnt by pat · Jun 23, 2004

That's true but I'm fairly sure the high pressure side of a refridgeration system can be in the range of 300psi and I'd rather be safe than sorry.

Gary said:
From the refridgeration guru at phase-change.com

The highest pressure experienced by the condenser will be when the system is running and will be heavily dependent upon refrigerant type, cap tube sizing, condenser sizing, airflow, ambient temperature, etc. Keep in mind also that if the condenser fan fails, the pressure will skyrocket. The stronger, the better.

gizmo said:
Another regular at phase-change.com in regards to a "is this consensor any good" thread.

It almost certainly is not designed to handle the 250+ psi that a condensor has to handle.

redwolf said:
Reply to the same topic:
...and your worried about it being about to handle 300psi (what most systems are tested for on the high side) then pump it up 250-300psi and see if it holds over night

kthx

ares350 · Jun 23, 2004

what are you attempting to condense? do you need 300-400psi? Id consult a phase change diagram of the substance your looking at to see what pressure it needs to change phases at a specific temp. 400PSI would probably freeze water at room temp. but I think you just need to get vapor into liquid. that seems like alot of pressure for such a thing.

but good luck with it, post you progress, Im curious how it turns out if you can overcome the problems.

for your own safety, stay the hell away from the setup during testing.

squeakygeek · Jun 23, 2004

Why not use standard refridgeration condensers? You can cut them to any size you want.

zabomb4163 · Jun 23, 2004

what refrigerant are you using?

pwnt by pat · Jun 23, 2004

I am aiming for r404a/507 but propaine will work if I can't aquire anything else. I was hoping to make a custom condensor out of small rads so that I could build them in somewhat small external box as opposed to having a giant radiator and fan sticking out the side of my case. As I said before, I am trying to make it portable.
Cutting old ones might be a possiblity. I have to go to the dump and see what's there.

Diggrr · Jun 23, 2004

Another possible solution: Since you're building a waterchiller, and not direct block, you could build a second watercooling loop to cool the condenser and pump that water to a heatercore.
I'd thought about doing just that myself at one time. Space would be a problem though with two heat exchange reserviors and pumps in there.

There are pieces made to do just that by the way. Two pipes for the refrigerant to run through the block, and two pipes for cooling water. It seams to be more efficient than aircooling the condenser directly, and space is at a premium.

Drats, can't find the link right now....Holler if you want it. They probably cost some pretty good $$.

**found it http://www.apiheattransfer.com/en/Products/HeatExchangers/PlateHeatExchanger/BrazedPHE.htm

pwnt by pat · Jun 24, 2004

That's actually not a bad idea, cooling the condensor with a watercooling loop. The only problem is the condensor will be displacing about 900w of heat. I'm not sure on the specs of a heater core but I don't know if that's enough. If I do that, I would use two cores with a an eight by eight surfice area - that is if I could find one.

I was looking at those but I have decided that if this project gets off of the ground that I'm going to make a custom evap/res. I got a custom design in mind but the end result will looks similar to this:
http://www.gatecom.com/~tmethod/evapres4.jpg
That's Gary's latest creation.

Zork · Jun 29, 2004

Actually the Be-cooling Aquacoil radiator is working great for me, although I am only using r-22 I can tell you that the 180degree bends are brased on. From what I can tell the radiator is actually a true condensor that Becooling were selling as radiators, Ive heard the same to be true for the danger den cubes. Now my only problem is finding a supplier online that still has this style instock (Any one know of one?). The one at cool-computers looks simular but isnt the exact one as the aquacoil, there for dont want to pay that expensive of a price for something that may or may not work. Only if I could see the other side of the radiator where the bends are!!!!

pwnt by pat · Jun 29, 2004

That's good news. Now just to find them.

Turbokeu · Jun 30, 2004

Zork said:
The one at cool-computers looks simular but isnt the exact one as the aquacoil, there for dont want to pay that expensive of a price for something that may or may not work. Only if I could see the other side of the radiator where the bends are!!!!

Now I'm 99.9% sure

D) that this Cool-Computers cube rad is the same as the former Becooling Aquacoil II rad:

- Exact same dimensions.
- Exact same two 3/8" parallel water passages with 10 bends on one side, and 8 bends on the other side.
- Exact same 1/2" straight connections to the two 3/8" parallel water passages.
- Exact same screwed mounting of the chassis parts.
- Exact same color and galvanisation of the chassis metal.
- Even exact same red plastic protecting caps on in-and outlet!

Even the price is almost the same as what I paid to Becooling in july 2001 (54$).

CD

Anyone with access to a pressure tesing equipment look here

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