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View Full Version : TBird 900 - locked?


dheinsdorf
08-20-01, 02:56 AM
Hi,
This is my first OC system, TBird 900 and Abit KT7A.

I tried bumping the BIOS to 1gig but it still seems locked at 900Mhz. Do I need to solder the L1 bridges to unlock the cpu?

I didnt really notice if the bridges were cut or not, but I am real good with a soldering iron, so any help would be appreciated.

I been hitting the OC sites pretty heavy and read lots of L1 mod stuff, just nothing saying I need to do this to OC.

Thanks for any help,

Doug

RedDeathDrinker
08-20-01, 03:59 AM
No need to solder - use a graphite pencil or a conductive pencil to reconnect the bridges.......

Wahoogie
08-20-01, 06:27 AM
Well, to change the multiplyer you need to connect your L1 Bridges, called "unlocking."

Easiest thing to do is get a very sharp .5mm #2 mechanical pencil and some tape. Place tape on all bridges but the ones you are working with so you can be sure not to connect them horizonatally.

As you can see, I have a 900 T-Bird, and I love this baby....it's not the best overclocker but I have it up at 1040MHz...not too bad I guess :) Also make sure you have good cooling and your temps stay under 60, under 50 if possible.

FRANK
08-20-01, 07:51 PM
Go to the "Beginers Guide" on the front page of this site. There you will find an article on the "L1" bridges, this is really an easy modification, just connect the dots. There are some clear photos that show you exactly what the locked / unlocked CPU's look like.

mrpcman
08-20-01, 08:06 PM
yeah, you don't want to solder it. the heat from it could easly destroy the cpu. just stick to the pencil trick.

dheinsdorf
08-21-01, 08:38 PM
Originally posted by mrpcman
yeah, you don't want to solder it. the heat from it could easly destroy the cpu. just stick to the pencil trick.

I used to have to solder surface mount to do repairs on my old job, but I had a $900 iron and a big $ Ziess 45x binocular scope with an awesome light. I get your point. I had some extra dollars so I snagged:

Vantek 6035D full copper cooler. This item brings up the 3 to 4 pin converter issue. The Engineer I called at Vantek gave me the fan power and current specs, some vendors I spoke with say its a no go to hook the big fan onto the mobo. The guy at Vantek said its OK for the Abit KT7A. ???

Tt dimm heatsink kit (partly cause they looks cool).

AMD unlock silver epoxy kit. I concider it a better long term investment. Believe me, the pencil came to mind. I plan on building more bumped systems, I assume there will be plenty epoxy to go around.

I got some salvaged trick heat sinks from old non-fan Dells and Microns that I am gonna take the band saw to and epoxy to my 3DFX 3000 AGP. And I am gonna rig a fan like the mounted kits they sell to hit perpendicular over the 3000 heat sink.

Should be good after I figure out the optimum KT7A settings.