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Newbie and his watercooling questions.

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Keiron

Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2004
Location
New Haven, CT
I recently got a few watercooling parts from a friend and am looking at doing a conversion over to watercooling on my aging 1600XP (replacing parts as I go). I currently have a swiftech pump that has a small leak (if submerged it's fine, but enough to be a problem if not), a Maze 1 block, and a radaitor. I was planning on replacing the pump with a mag3 and the maze1 with a TDX, but I'm not sure if the radiator needs replacing as well, or just a shroud and some fans. I plan on mounting whatever radiator I end up with as a blow-hole on the top of my case. If I do end up needing to replace the rad, is this one any good?
Here are pics of the current rad, fits 2 120mm fans side-by side (with no shroud).
radkeir.jpg

stuffkeir.jpg
 
You can always try using the rad until you get ahold of a heatercore or something, and upgrade that later. If you go that route though, don't make the blowholes until you have a rad you like.

Important part of a rad is that it actually does its job. That's why you see banged-up heatercores instead of fancy commercial things often, since they work well. I'd take into account the surface area of the rad and flow rate of water within it; get those values high and you're golden.

Oh, and I almost forgot...
WELCOME TO THE FORUMS!! :bday:
 
If you are gonna end up replacing everything your friend gave you, what's the point? Granted, your block needs replacing but keep the pump and the radiator and see if you like the results. Your radiator looks slightly restrictive but you can't beat free. Just submerge the pump in a homemade reservoir and you are good to go. However, I do believe you have the MCP300 which is configured to work inline but I could be wrong. ;)
 
The only thing I would replace right off the bat would be the tubing and the block (MCW6000 not TDX).
Next (after a while maybe) get yourself a powerful pump (MCP or D4)
the rad is fine, however the $20 upgrade to a HeaterCore is so easily budgeted.

SenC.
 
That rad you pointed to at moddershq is a '77 bonneville heatercore I believe. You can get them cheaper at autozone. I got mine at autozone for $17.99. That's with the stock pipes sticking out though. If you wanted them to look like that, follow "weapons" guide on how to mod a dual 120mm heatercore. That's what I did, turned out great. I bought the shroud from that guy, and i think he's in the process of making it for me right now. He's really good at responding to emails as well.
 
Thanks for all the help, but I have a couple more questions.
Cache had mentioned I should go for the MCW6000 block, not the TDX. Is there a perticular reason for this, or is it just personal preference?
Can I go wrong with just getting the parts off DangerDen's website, or should I mix and match?
 
Well the MCW6000 performs better than the TDX. But most important to YOU with that 'weak' pump of yours, the MCW6000 performs much better than the TDX at low flowrates.
check this out
If you have questions regarding the graph just ask.
Note that you should be looking at the left parts of the graph, as your pump and your rad wont allow for high flowrates.
(btw. the lower the curve sits on the graph the better the block)

PS. I only suggested the MCW6000 because it looks like you have 3/8 ID tubing. If you want to upgrade your tubing (as I suggested also) and feel the need to move onto 1/2 ID tubing (the standard here at OCF) The MCW6002 would apply as my suggestion.The only diferebce between 6000 and 6002 is the size of the barbs. 6002 being 1/2 OD and 6000 being 3/8 OD.

SenC.
 
If I was to upgrade the pump (seriously thinking about it, as I don't have anywhere near my computer to hold a bucket of water for the pump to sit in), should I go with the mag 3? I would like to keep as much of this as possible in the computer (I have a couple cats who would very much love to chew the tubing), I have an old Alienware case (the cheiftec dragon type) so I should have enough space to hide it away.
Whatever way I go, I'll almost certionally use 1/2" tubing (just get a converter for the radiator if necessary).
 
Ok. go for 1/2 tubing then
Get the MCW6002 (~$40)
1/2 ID Clerflex60 tubing (~$10 for 10')
If I was to upgrade the pump (seriously thinking about it, as I don't have anywhere near my computer to hold a bucket of water for the pump to sit in), should I go with the mag 3?
! NO !, well I should ask you what your budget is first, but....F it.
Dont get the mag3. A month or so ago I wouldve recommended that pump to you (cheap and powerful) but I have since come to my senses. The pump has a common leak problem (do a search on mag3 leak here in the forums), and I am DONE recommending crap components like that to poeple, especially newcommers ! Save yourself the hassles and forget about the thing.
The only way I would ever trust my $$$$ system to a component like the mag3 is if it was in a bucket (you DONT want that, you said)

A great pump right now is the D4 (aka DangerDen 12v). I have no problems recommending that pump to you. Also the MCP600 or Aquaxtreme 50-z (same pump) are a good choice.

As for blocks...
Although teh MCW6002 will stil outperform the TDX at any flowrate you wil achieve with the aforementioned pumps, It does have that 'cool-look' factor to it.
If you want to only buy from DangerDen and have your heart set on the TDX then this is your lucky day :D
IN that case I would buy the DD12v (D4 pump), the TDX and th clearflex all at once.
otherwise check out these vendors.
cooltechnica
voyeurmods
 
Budget is $200-$300, but the more I save, the more goes twards a new mobo and XP-M (currently have a gigabyte board and a xp1600 thats undercocked to keep it from turning into mush).
Thanks for all the help btw, would have been quite a problem to have a small flood on my hands. If you're wondering why I don't want an inline pump, there is simply no room to fit the bucket in my case.
 
Yeah, bucket inside the computer isn't a good idea. Especially considering the only room you would have for a res is towards where a front intake fan usually is. It would be the lowest point in the system so naturally water would fill the bucket and basically get all over your components.

What's the deal with fancy tubing though? Home depot sells vinyl stuff for like $.50/ft, and it's lasted years on my fridge setup...
 
just build an external case if concerned about all your components fitting in your current case. constructing the case out of angle alluminum and using pop rivets is a good way of constructing an external case. best to also construct case to be air tight for overall performance.
 
I have that same case (Antec SX1040B II) The pumps I mentioned to you DD12v and MCP600 are small and will EASILY fit right besides your PCI slots.
look through here for examples
Dont get Homedepot tubing because it will kink on you and be a hassle.
With a budget like 200 dollars even, you can get top of the line WC gear!

I would get the D4 from DangerDen (DD12v) and the MCW6002 and that rad you linked to before (bonneville). That will be a killer setup !!
If you DO like the TDX that much then let nothing stop you from getting it. It is a great block if coupled with a pump like the MCP or Laing D4.

To make it easier on yourself, just buy all your stuff at DangerDen.
10' Clearflex69 (1/2" ID)
TDX with 1/2" OD barbs
DagerDen 12volt pump (Laing D4)
and even get one of their heatercores, if you want.
-The above sounds liek what you WANT (TDX)

If you want the best performance without paying too much, get the MCW6002 ($40) and a scratch and dent Dtek Procore with 1/2"OD barbs ($24) @ dtekcustoms.com

SenC.
 
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