Why are my temps so high even though i have good hardware?

Duke3d87 · Jul 23, 2004

This is really starting to really bug me. Heres whats going on.
I have an AthlonXP 2600+ (mobile) at stock speeds on water. Its at 98 degrees F idle!!! When overclocked, it hits around 120 degrees F on load!!! Whats going on and how do I fix this? I have a HydorL20, HydorL30, a 1978 Chevy Impala heatercore with 6 80 mm fans at 7 volts and the Asetek waterchill. From the ability of the Heatercore and waterchill to dissipate at least 400 watts (heatercore can probably do more) I’m baffled. Thanks

thorilan · Jul 23, 2004

post a pic of your rig please

Orka · Jul 23, 2004

if the tempreture reading is right, then probably the water block hardly touches the surface of the CPU. remount it and make sure there is a contact.

Duke3d87 · Jul 23, 2004

THis is the heatercore

this is the picture of the box. the Black rad is the Asetek Rad and the pump in there is the HydorL30. My L20 is mounted in the case as by the time the water reaches the CPU, alot of head is lost so the L20 boosts flow into the CPU and it seems to work...the water flows very fast.

Duke3d87 · Jul 23, 2004

Orka said:
if the tempreture reading is right, then probably the water block hardly touches the surface of the CPU. remount it and make sure there is a contact.

Also, its mounted right. I mounted very carefully and there is only one way to mount this right...its the MCW5002-A. And i made sure that it was mounted right.

EDIT: the motherboard is overvolting the CPu to 1.57ish volts.

Orka · Jul 23, 2004

if your are sure that you mounted it right and that there is enough pressure made by the block on the CPU, then i give up. when i shu down the fans completely cpu diode never reaches the reading you diode have reached. when i turn of the pump it will take a while to reach that tempreture, a very long while.
you should measure the flow in you rig. may be for some reason it's very very slow. you mentioned you have two pumps. what for?

Duke3d87 · Jul 23, 2004

with the swiftetech mounting, you have to unscrew the screw to apply pressure and after it reaches a certain point, the sprint is at max springingness. I have two pumps because the water flows through a really big rad and a very restrictive radiator. Thats used somewhat like a wireless network's signal booster. its used to boost the amount of GPH is flowing through the WB. also, now its 79 degrees F in the room and the CPU is at 116 degrees F.

Now, the big radiator there are 6 80 mm fans all at 7 volts. The underneatch of the box is not cut out and air is drawn through little holes that i've drilled. do you think i should cut out the entire bottom to facillitate the intake of air? The Fans on the heatercore dont seem to be pulling much air through the big heatercore.

tsulas · Jul 23, 2004

Are the fans you have on the rad pushing the air through it or pulling the air through it?

Duke3d87 · Jul 23, 2004

its pulling what air it can find through it

Albuquerque · Jul 23, 2004

What is the ambient air temperature in your room?

My room is approximately 80F all the time, and my water temp hovers between 84 and 86F depending on what kind of load I'm exerting. My BIOS reports CPU temps between 104 and 112 degrees. Since I know the temp of the ambient air and the actual water, I can conclude that my BIOS temps just aren't exactly right.

Unless your block is mounted wrong, the CPU should run 10-15F hotter than your water temp. And unless your rad / fan / pump setup sucks, your water shouldn't be much more than 5-10F hotter than the air in your room.

Thus, basically at all times, your real CPU temp should be no more than 25F higher than your ambient air temp in the room. If you're exceeding this, either your block is mounted wrong, your pump is too weak, your radiator sucks, your fans aren't flowing enough air through the radiator, or your BIOS is misreporting the temps.

Duke3d87 · Jul 23, 2004

I think its gotta be the bios. Cause my pumps are pumping water into the resivour really fast. I think it might also be the fact that the big radiators fans have to pull air through little holes in the bottom. So i think its a combination.

Albuquerque · Jul 23, 2004

I bought an infrared wireless thermometer from Radio Shack for $34.99 a week or so ago. You can tell the temperature of anything in your case or elsewhere simply by pointing this device at the piece you want to measure -- no contact needed.

This can help you determine the temps of your water in the res (point it at the exposed brass nearest the res), your ambient temp (point it at a blanket or at the carpet in your room out of the sunlight), the temp of your rad, the temp of the air coming out of your rad (point it at the fan mechanism) among a ton of other things.

You can then get a comprehensive picture of what your system is doing and how it's performing, which you can then use to make educated guesses as to REAL temps that your CPU is experiencing.

Duke3d87 · Jul 23, 2004

problem is that it all cost money, money i dont have...

tsulas · Jul 23, 2004

Have you tried another monitor program? Such as Motherboard Monitor 5? I use MBM5, and it's temps are pretty accurate.

Duke3d87 · Jul 23, 2004

thats the program i've been using

Mr.Guvernment · Jul 23, 2004

i ould say give your fan better air flow.. - you also seem to have ALOT of connectors and such - anyways to get them out?

Duke3d87 · Jul 23, 2004

nope. All the connectors that i have are there for a reason. most of them convert 1/2 to 5/8" or 3/8" to 1/2"

greenman100 · Jul 23, 2004

tsulas said:
Have you tried another monitor program? Such as Motherboard Monitor 5? I use MBM5, and it's temps are pretty accurate.

what is MBM5 monitoring?

How have you checked accuracy of your temps?

Xymurgy · Jul 23, 2004

Turn your fans from 7v to 12v to see if anything changes. How thick is that impala core? 2"?

Duke3d87 · Jul 24, 2004

i will try that thanks. I'm also planning on cutting out the bottom of the case so air can flow more freely

Why are my temps so high even though i have good hardware?

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