• Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!

Huge Res!

Overclockers is supported by our readers. When you click a link to make a purchase, we may earn a commission. Learn More.

Kaso

Member
Joined
May 5, 2004
Location
England, Yorkshire
I was thinking, if i had like a Huge Res (i was thinking likeWater Cooler Bottle Size) the water would be stading so long before it was re-circulated that it'd cool down a good lot. Maybe enough to run my Dual Heatcore on passive?

I dunno has anyone tried anything like this, seems like a good idea to me
 
To me it doesnt make sense cause the water doesnt change that much temperature and it would depend how much the temp of the water changed and whats the rooms temp but that would be a sweet thing to see,just w/o the culligan logo :p
 
No matter how much you try to go passive, my feeling is that it just ain't gonna work (unless the convection surface is VERY large). From what I'm understanding, eventually the water in the res will warm up and reach an undesirably hot temp.

But then again I've read a post where a guy used his SWIMMING POOL as the reservoir and in that case it will no doubt work.

A little airflow from undervolted, silent fans will be sufficient if your plans aren't to overclock.
 
enlightened is correct.

your radiator direectly effects your performance. even a little bit of air flow through the rad work. do push pull with 5-7 volt mods on fans and you shouldnt be able to hear them
 
It will severely hurt performance. The laws of physics state that all the water in a closed loop system will eventually reach a stable temperature, the amount of water in your system dictates how long that will take but it will happen eventually and when it does, if you have no active cooling on your rad your computer is gonna suffer....unless you have a radiator designed to be passive of course, ie: Zalman Reserator. Or unless you use your swimming pool for a res because of the huge surface area for cooling on the surface of the water..thats some crazy stuff..

But then again I've read a post where a guy used his SWIMMING POOL as the reservoir and in that case it will no doubt work.

enlightend do you have a link to that post ? I'd be interested to see it :D
 
envy said:
enlightend do you have a link to that post ? I'd be interested to see it :D
Me too. Isn't there some kind of *bleach* in swimming pools ? That would corrode the waterblocks i suppose...
 
SureFoot said:
Me too. Isn't there some kind of *bleach* in swimming pools ? That would corrode the waterblocks i suppose...


Im guessing he didnt put any in his, but its free pool heating :D Works both ways! :drool:
 
a few moons ago, a friend and me calculated dissipation of 100watts of heat in a 50 gallon tank in a 25c room and equalibrium would be less then 10c. it would work, just gotta make sure u have something large like a 50gal fish tank :)

the waterblock will corrode if there is a mix of metals of different electronegetivity, like copper and aluminum. Bleach might just speed up that process, but it will not corrode with another metal to leech electrons off. and it won't heat your pool :p
 
That guy's crazy. I was howling the whole time I read that tread. I wana know if he actually did it.
 
Dont remember what forum it was on but someone on some caribbean island, or hawaii or somewhere, just remember it was an island, talked about using a buildings fresh water supply to cool his computer.
The end result was to make a closed loop with a heatercore and to just put the heatercore in the giant like 500gal tank.
Guess you could do that with a large fish tank (like those ones that take up an entire wall in a large room). Just as long as the water additives you place in the fishtank wouldnt harm a copper heatercore. might develope a lot of algee on the HC though and I dont think a plecostomus would want to eat off something thats metal and always hotter than the water temp. Just and idea
 
jamesavery22 said:
Dont remember what forum it was on but someone on some caribbean island, or hawaii or somewhere, just remember it was an island, talked about using a buildings fresh water supply to cool his computer.
The end result was to make a closed loop with a heatercore and to just put the heatercore in the giant like 500gal tank.
Guess you could do that with a large fish tank (like those ones that take up an entire wall in a large room). Just as long as the water additives you place in the fishtank wouldnt harm a copper heatercore. might develope a lot of algee on the HC though and I dont think a plecostomus would want to eat off something thats metal and always hotter than the water temp. Just and idea
Yeah, as if we hadnt enough algae trouble already ;) Now you add the hassle of cleaning the HC from aquarium plant life and fish poop..
 
Korndog said:
a few moons ago, a friend and me calculated dissipation of 100watts of heat in a 50 gallon tank in a 25c room and equalibrium would be less then 10c. it would work, just gotta make sure u have something large like a 50gal fish tank :)

I don't that that is correct. First, the system is closed loop. Second, even if you had a 50 gallon tank, with no active cooling, the surface area of the tank is TINY compared to the amount of water. It is the same reason why just getting a large 1" copper pipe and bending it into a spiral does not work well at all as a radiator, there is not enough surface contact with the water and the wall of the copper. That is why radiators/heater cores are built the way they are.
Just a thought...
 
Sorry, a bit of a hijack here...

jamesavery22 said:
Dont remember what forum it was on but someone on some caribbean island, or hawaii or somewhere, just remember it was an island, talked about using a buildings fresh water supply to cool his computer...

Ahem...That would have been me :) and the location is the Northern Mariana Islands.
The project is proceeding apace; you can see a few pictures here

The only aspect I've not finished designing is the failsafe system. The regular system is intended to run off of the main house pump, and currently, if there's a power failure, the main house pump will not run until the generator kicks in...and that's only if I'm there. Therefore, I'm working on designing a failsafe system which will divert the flow to a rad/fan/pump system powered off the UPS and actuated via a relay for power and a solenoid valve for water. The system only has to operate for a maximum of 40 minutes or so until the UPS battery is exhausted and the auto-shutdown sequence begins.

If you've any ideas regarding the failsafe system, please post it to my original thread on this subject.
 
Last edited:
Back