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Hello, and intro to my WC project!

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yzf|champ

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Joined
Jul 28, 2004
I originally posted this in the parent forum, but after some some advice i have moved it here! *MODS, please feel free to delete duplicate post in parent!*


Hello fellow tweakers, modders, and overclockers!

I am new to the forum, and would like to introduce you to my WC plan as well as get to know some of you by asking a OC opinion question.

I have been a long time admirer of the majestic water-cooled PC. And I finally get to build one for myself. I figure if WC comes in a mac now, then it has to be STANDARD in a PC! :p

Attached is a schematic of my projected system. Feel free to add any comments or suggestions! It looks a little funny cause i had to resize it for the forums!

My question is in regards to unlocking my tbred B 2600 for use in my chaintech nforce2. I have heard some say that the motherboard unlocks it for you, and others say you have to short the bridge or the pins. Does anyone know the real answer to what I should do to unlock it?

I have also read that CPU's produced before a certain week are unlocked. I doubt mine is, and I won't be able to tell until next week when I install my h2o. Does anyone know an easier way to check if it's unlocked already?

Perhaps I should forgo all of these worries and buy an XP mobile 2500? I hear I should get the 35W model, as they are the best overclockers, and the stepping is not an issue. I mean for $80 i could probably get 2.6 ghz on my h2o guaranteed. Does anyone know what to expect (OC wise) from my tbred 2600 once I figure out the unlocking questions?

Thanks in advance, and stay tuned for some great pictures coming in the next week!
 

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it's a good design, very logical and would look very clean. have you found a y adapter with 3/8 on one side and 1/2" on the other? that would help to make it looks very clean :)

you also might want to consider a bigger radiator. for three blocks I'd definitely want a double 120mm radiator. depends what you can fit though.

I'm thought that all t-breds were unlocked, only bartons being locked. If that's true, the you were probably just using a motherboard without multiplier adjustment before, and a nforce2 board will let you adjust it. If you want to get a mobile, check this out:
http://www.excaliberpc.com/product_info.php?products_id=3874
Pretty expensive but it's probably the best mobile stepping out there :)
 
If you are running the TDX you should definitely run your pumps in series instead of parallel. The TDX likes high pressure. You will most likely be able to use a more restrictive nozzle (3 or 4). Also do away with the res and use a T-line instead since you would be in series it will all be one line.

SenC.
 
Senater_Cache said:
If you are running the TDX you should definitely run your pumps in series instead of parallel. The TDX likes high pressure. You will most likely be able to use a more restrictive nozzle (3 or 4). Also do away with the res and use a T-line instead since you would be in series it will all be one line.

SenC.


jw but how does it work that you get more pressure with them in series? to me doesnt quite make sense...
 
You want the pump in series for safety reason as well. If one pump fails in a parallel setup, you get reverse flow through the dead pump and kills the overall flow. If one pump fail in series, nothing happens except little flow restriction through the dead pump. Two pump in series also increases head.
 
ok then so wouldnt you want to par. the pumps if your only cooling your cpu? If your cooling cpu-gfx-chipset run them in series?
 
Believe me you get much more flow in series. In the setup I just finnished I started out with two pumps in parallel. As I was filling and bleeding my system I got more flow than if I just had one pump but when I put the pumps in series the water shot through so much faster. In some systems slow flow helps because the water has more time to absorb heat. In your system with your particular blocks high flow is the way to go. And put a dual 120mm rad or core in there with matching fans if you have the space. You'll be glad you did.
 
Ok guys, having water going slow through anything does not help it absorb more heat. Please stop posting this rumor. I have seen it posted about a dozen times this week. There is a thread in here that proves this to be false. Also take physics if you don't believe it. Other than that, definatly put the pumps in series. Change the nozel in the block to the one with all the litttle holes in it. This will give you a WW effect in it. Not as good as a WW, but will yeild better temps than the other nozels. Oh, nice drawing. It looks very well thought out. For someone working on their first system, you have done your reasearch. You may want to think about getting a good heater core such a a bonneville or chevette or something of the sort. Check what size you can fit and then go searching. Don't forget to put a shroud on them. Good luck and
Welcome to the Forums!
 
Hi guys, thanks for all the input. Putting the pumps in series doesn't make much sense to me. Wouldn't one pump just be repumping water that is already moving? I think the two in paralell plus forcing two 3/8" into a single 1/2" will accomplish much better flow! but i would like to hear everyone's opinion. this build is gonna happen the end of next week. i am so excited!

I began my project today bu modifying a supra heater core with 1/2" barbs. tomorrow i will make the shroud and post pics. this core fits dual 92mm fans beautifully.

I think i am going to replace my tbird with the 2600 mobile 45w. Funny thing is my processor cost $265 18 months ago, and this lil pupy is only $80. welcome to crazy town.
 
Nice work, it looks like a good system, I would also recommend the pumps in series, because you have 3 blocks and head stacks. Check out this thread: http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=313749 thats the system jenkx is talking about, it also raises the series vs parallel issue on pumps.

Let us know how it turns out :)
 
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