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Stoanhart

Member
Joined
Dec 16, 2001
Location
VIctoria, BC, Canada
Hi,

I have put my WC project on the backburner for a LONG time (1-2 years). I bought copper (I have 2 nice pieces) and have 3 nice heatercores to choose from. I know I want a T-line. I am holding off on buying a pump until I actually make the block to avoid putting more money into a project I don't know if I'll ever finish. Anyways, here's my question.

This is a picture I have found some time ago. I assume the numbers are correct, but is the measurement from the center of the holes or to the edge (the picture shows the arrows going to the edge)? Also, how big are the holes themselves. Is the core located directly in the center, so if I drew an X from hole to hole, the middle of the X would be the center of the core? To anyone who has made their own block, what is the best way to insure that the holes are lined up perfectly. I don't want to mess up my copper.

Thanks!
 

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This has the dimensions of s462, albeiet without the holes. Though i beleive that the core is in the middle of the mounting holes, so you caon work out the dimensions from there.
 
Yes, they should be from the middle of the holes. The size doesn't matter that much, because you should use washers when screwing it down anyway.
 
Here is the design I plan on doing with the WB. It's not to scale or anything. The square in the middle is obviously the core. The legend should explain all.

Has anyone done a design like this before? How did it go?
 

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Looks interesting, however I'm inclined to think that a WW type waterblock would perform a bit better. The water hitting the sides will drop the flow rate more than needed. Also, you went a bit overboard with the bolts to hold down the top. You should need no more than six, really.

That said, I'm glad to see that people are still making their own waterblocks. Props to you. :)
 
yeah, maybe too many bolts. I just added them to the diagram as an afterthought, and I figured better safe than sorry when it comes to watertightness. Also, what is a "WW" waterblock? I'd do a search, but WW is below the minimum word length (That is something that should really be addressed. SOOOOO many computer terms are under the minimum word length, and it makes it very hard to find what you're looking for. I've run into that problem many times before).

I came up with this design becuase I had seen many WBs that used what I like to call the "skyscraper" design, where the area above the core is lots of little towers usually in a grid, like a city from overtop. There is a lot of surface area in those designs, but the water flows quite randomly, and I'm sure a lot of needless resistance is caused by water going in perpendicular directions and colliding. I thought that lots of surface area with the water routed in a clear direction to a larger collection trough might be effective.
 
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A 'WW' is a White Water.

It would be more efficient than your design simply because the White Water doesn't have the water flowing perpendicular to the barbs. Are you going to do a plexi top? If you are, stick with your design because it would look really neat. It should still be a good design, even if the flow is lessened a bit. Just make sure that when you make it you get the channels as deep as possible, probably within 1 or 2 mm of going through the copper. Good luck! :D
 
Yeah, I am going plexi top so I'll stick with this. Hopefully I'll find the time to prep the block during the week (it has to be sanded, one side is a little uneven), and then make it next weekend. I only have access to a drillpress, though. I hope I can still make it look neat. I guess we'll see.
 
Well, I was going to use the drillpress to put one hole, then another hole, then another really close together to make a channel. Also, that way I can just set the depth and not worry about drilling through. I actully do have a dremel, now that you mention it. My dad is a dental technician, and in his lab he has one for when he's working on making teeth. I would have to go buy a bit for it. How would you prevent cutting through if you wanted a thickness as low as 1-2 mm?
 
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