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Iwaki Heat

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Yes.

Make sure there aren't any voltage problems though... They should be warm, but not so much that you couldn't hold your hand on it for an extended period of time.
 
I can leave my hand on it for about 5 secs before it gets too hot. I'm currently just leak testing my system...
 
Do you have a really low tolerance of pain? Can you handle hot toast? =p

Was this bought used? I've used 6 different Iwakis (6, 10, 20, 20, 30, 40) and I've never seen one get that hot. Are you starving the intake? You aren't using 8mm tubing or anything strange, right?
 
Hey, my first job was running around with hot dishes straight out of an industrial dishwasher. =P Now I'm on to consulting for some reason....

It was bought used. I've got about a foot of tubing between the intake and my dual 80mm radiator, don't think what would restrict the intake. I've got that big blower and 342 HC ready to hook up, just no where to put them at the moment.

Iwaki MD 20-RT -> D-Tek WW -> DD Maze GPU -> T-Line -> Dual 80mm Rad -> pump

I guess I could get a res? I suppose since I've taken my D-Tek NB out of the loop, for an air cooled Swiftech one, and the fact that I've got like 13' of head, a res prolly wouldn't hurt me too much.
 
See how it works in a free flow, low pressure environment... if it gets way hot that way, you've probably got a problem. Simply stick the inlet hose in a large container of water and route the outlet back into the container. Run it like that for however long it last took to get hot... if it still gets hot, you might have a problem. At low pumping pressure, the Iwaki should have no problem keeping cool.
 
greenman100 said:
I'm pretty sure the MD motors are all 100v....?

Mine actually says 115v on the label. I remember some people talking a while back about 100v getting hot at 115v so I checked to make sure.

I always have a lot of problems getting this thing primed, even with the intake hooked up to a bowl of water. Hm, might be time to bust out the bath tub and a lot of tubing.
 
Have you taken it apart yet and looked inside to see if there is anything wrong. Chances are you could spot if there was a major problem right off. Also if your pump is having trouble getting going, then it might just be ready to die :( . I hope this is not the case.
 
My MD-15R gets hot as a motha... with no fannage on that pup, 3 secs and yer hand will burn. It is 100v though... it is very normal for the casing to get hot. From the Iwaki America FAQ:

"My pump seems to be running hot?

The WMD series runs hotter than the MD series. A rule of thumb is that the pump should be hot to the touch but you should be able to hold your hand on it for about 5 seconds. All MD/WMD pumps are thermally protected to shut off once the pump reaches a critical temperature. There is an automatic reset."
 
HAAA HAAAA hot toast....whew my gut is hurting!

I know you don't mean to slag him, just amusing.
 
nikhsub1 said:
My MD-15R gets hot as a motha... with no fannage on that pup, 3 secs and yer hand will burn. It is 100v though... it is very normal for the casing to get hot. From the Iwaki America FAQ:

"My pump seems to be running hot?

The WMD series runs hotter than the MD series. A rule of thumb is that the pump should be hot to the touch but you should be able to hold your hand on it for about 5 seconds. All MD/WMD pumps are thermally protected to shut off once the pump reaches a critical temperature. There is an automatic reset."

Doh! Shoulda thought to look at their website, thanks for the info.

The first thing I did when I got it was to clean out the inside, everything seemed to be normal and in place when I took the front off.

Once the pump gets hot though, it doesn't really seem to get continually hotter. Guess I'll not worry about it too much unless things randomly burst into flames around it. :D
 
I gotta include my blistering experience. :). Found out the day I got my Iwaki MD-15R that not only it pumps water but it fries bacon also.... :eek:
 
Don't run the pump in a loop without some kind of restriction. Otherwise the pump will emit a turbine whine and cavitate due to lack of back-pressure.
 
tore my test system down and took out my dual 80mm rad. Put in my 342 HC, the pump is taking much longer to heat up. Shouldn't be a problem at all once I get the fans put on the system.
 
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