D4 problems...

Would a 12mm barb with a 1/4" NPT thread going to an inlet for the D4, would this hinder greatly the performance of the D4? I understand that this pump is used especially for highly restrictive systems and has been tested to perform well, but were these tests done with a commonly restrictive barb going towards the inlet (I know most barbs on a Bay res are 1/4" NPT)?

The reason I am asking is because I have constructed several cylindrical reservoirs out of acrylic tubes and even expensive polycarbonate tubes (and we all know how much these cost in bulk since online distributors such as mcmaster charge you an arm a leg for clear PVC) along with welded copper tubing, but, it will never look as good as the Tank-O-Matic. So I figure since I spend so much making my several revisions of different reservoirs I concoct (then selling them because I am unsatisfied), why not just buy a beautiful one without wasting any more of my time.

I know the Tank-O-Matic is 1/4" BSPT, similar in threading size to NPT, so I can just grab male threaded 1/4" BSPT to 1/2" tube polypropylene barbs at MCmaster to adapt to 1/2 as an inlet, but.... would this be too restrictive for the D4 (the new D4s dated after 07/04 that are quieter.... supposedly) along with a Chevetter HeaterCore, an MCW6000, and a DD 6800 waterblock?

My other option was just to bore out the hole to accomodate a 3/8" NPT, and tap it, but I'd rather not mod anymore, and, the thought of using an aluminum reservoir after it has been drilled doesn't appeal to me.

i am using a 12mm barb with a 1/4" NPT for my d4 inlet. even though this is my first wc rig, the performance of the pump still exceeded my expecations. i think you'll be fine

Rule of thumb, never restrict the opening of your pump. I'd swap out those fittings on the tank o matic for some larger ones, like 3/8 or 1/2, even if the rest of your cooling loop uses smaller tubing. I had to do that on my tank o matic plug on, when I fitted it up to my Mag3.

BigAl2 said:

Rule of thumb, never restrict the opening of your pump. I'd swap out those fittings on the tank o matic for some larger ones, like 3/8 or 1/2, even if the rest of your cooling loop uses smaller tubing. I had to do that on my tank o matic plug on, when I fitted it up to my Mag3.

Click to expand...

I know exactly what you mean. My last setup was entirely 3/8" ID tubing, but the only tubing I kept 1/2" was the inlet twoards the 1048. Here's a pic:


So..... I wanted to get the Tank-O-Matic or even the Fass-O-Matic (why do Germans make such nice res'?) But wanted to replace the barbs with bigger chrome barbs. Now.... I can't find a place that sells larger chrome barbs. I'm planning to bore the hole of the res and change it from 1/4" BSPT to 3/8" NPT, but I just need to know a place that sells different sizes of chrome barbs.

Well you could buy one of these and jack the fittings off of it, or you could just try emailing DD and asking them if they'd sell you some of their high flow fittings. I know there is a place on the net that sells the nice chrome fittings but I can't remember for the life of me what it was called.

http://www.dangerden.com/mall/Misc_Hardware/rbx_acces.asp

SomaGaze said:

i am using a 12mm barb with a 1/4" NPT for my d4 inlet. even though this is my first wc rig, the performance of the pump still exceeded my expecations. i think you'll be fine

Click to expand...

I would agree. The inside diameter of a 1/4" NPT male fitting is slightly larger than the inside diameter of the 12mm barb (which itself is only 0.7mm smaller than a 1/2" barb). That's why they're used for res fittings.

Hi quicksilverXP,

I observed in your pic that you use an airtrap.
Are you happy with it?

CD

Turbokeu said:

Hi quicksilverXP,

I observed in your pic that you use an airtrap.
Are you happy with it?

CD

Click to expand...

Haha... remember when I used to talkk to you about building it? Haha... I built like six of those for me and my friends. I think it bleeds the fastest out of any reservoir I have ever owned. My objective now is to make it look more industrial somehow.

quicksilverXP said:

Haha... remember when I used to talkk to you about building it? Haha... I built like six of those for me and my friends. I think it bleeds the fastest out of any reservoir I have ever owned. My objective now is to make it look more industrial somehow.

Click to expand...

Yes I remember...
I have still trouble to convince people that a well designed airtrap is more efficient, easier to use, less prone to cracking & leaking, and less space consuming than all those reservoirs...
But yeah, it's not as cool looking...

Did you receive my reply to your PM about the flowmeter?
Cya,

CD

Yeah.... I just checked my messages right now and pm'ed you back. Anyways, I wanted to purchase the Swiftech Fill and Bleed and Kit, but, I saw your Fill and Bleed kit that you made and it looks a lot better. My question is, it seems that this would pose a 90 degree bend before the pump. I was thinking if I built it, where else exactly can I place the fill and bleed conveniently without placing it before the pump?

I was thinking in the drive bay, but the way my new configuration will be setup is that the water would go from the rad, to the fill and bleed (which seems very restrictive) and then to the CPU block. Would that be bad for the CPU?

quicksilverXP said:

Yeah.... I just checked my messages right now and pm'ed you back. Anyways, I wanted to purchase the Swiftech Fill and Bleed and Kit, but, I saw your Fill and Bleed kit that you made and it looks a lot better. My question is, it seems that this would pose a 90 degree bend before the pump. I was thinking if I built it, where else exactly can I place the fill and bleed conveniently without placing it before the pump?

I was thinking in the drive bay, but the way my new configuration will be setup is that the water would go from the rad, to the fill and bleed (which seems very restrictive) and then to the CPU block. Would that be bad for the CPU?

Click to expand...

Yes, I received your PM.

Swiftech's fill & bleed is great, but unfortunately only 3/8" ID.
My F&B uses also two 3/8" valves but only for fill & bleed, the main valve is still 1/2" (its smallest ID is 10mm internally).
The reason for all those (20mm-3/4" ID) 90° bends and tees is simply convenience due to the position of my Eheim pump.
I can assure you that they are not very restrictive at all, the most restrictive part is the 1/2" valve itself.

I just found out that Eheim sell those valves for 16/22mm (5/8" ID 7/8" OD) hoses - Eheim part number 4005510.
This valve should have 1/2" threaded connections (the 3/8" valve has 1/4" threaded connections, the 1/2" valve 3/8" threaded connections) which is perfect to connect to those 20mm ID bends and tees.
I estimate the internal ID of this 3/4" valve at about 12-13mm which is truly 1/2".

Now back to your question...
The best location of the F&B would be as low as possible, to be able to bleed the loop as much as possible.
Unfortunately that makes it most of the time located near the pump.
Another advantage is that valve 3 is in the suction line to the pump while filling.
All you have to do then is suck through valve 2 till the pump is primed and then start it.




Please feel free to ask any questions...

CD

Turbokeu said:

Yes, I received your PM.

Swiftech's fill & bleed is great, but unfortunately only 3/8" ID.
My F&B uses also two 3/8" valves but only for fill & bleed, the main valve is still 1/2" (its smallest ID is 10mm internally).
The reason for all those (20mm-3/4" ID) 90° bends and tees is simply convenience due to the position of my Eheim pump.
I can assure you that they are not very restrictive at all, the most restrictive part is the 1/2" valve itself.

I just found out that Eheim sell those valves for 16/22mm (5/8" ID 7/8" OD) hoses - Eheim part number 4005510.
This valve should have 1/2" threaded connections (the 3/8" valve has 1/4" threaded connections, the 1/2" valve 3/8" threaded connections) which is perfect to connect to those 20mm ID bends and tees.
I estimate the internal ID of this 3/4" valve at about 12-13mm which is truly 1/2".

Now back to your question...
The best location of the F&B would be as low as possible, to be able to bleed the loop as much as possible.
Unfortunately that makes it most of the time located near the pump.
Another advantage is that valve 3 is in the suction line to the pump while filling.
All you have to do then is suck through valve 2 till the pump is primed and then start it.

Please feel free to ask any questions...

CD

Click to expand...

Wow... thanks for your help man. I think I'll consider using that 1/2 in. valve you just gave me.
I remember in another thread you mentioned these for what you got for your fill and bleed setup.

Part numbers:
1/2" (12/16mm) valve: 4004512
3/8" (9/12mm) valve: 4003512
Completely made of PVC (no metal parts).

So.... 4004512 would be replaced with part number 4005150, which as 1/2" threaded connections. Then I would have to use 1/2" threaded connections for the tees before and after this valve. So what part numbers can I used to the inlet and outlet taps?

Wow... I just realized how expensive this Fill and Bleed kit will cost. Well worth it for ease though.

quicksilverXP said:

Wow... thanks for your help man. I think I'll consider using that 1/2 in. valve you just gave me.
I remember in another thread you mentioned these for what you got for your fill and bleed setup.

Part numbers:
1/2" (12/16mm) valve: 4004512
3/8" (9/12mm) valve: 4003512
Completely made of PVC (no metal parts).

So.... 4004512 would be replaced with part number 4005150, which as 1/2" threaded connections. Then I would have to use 1/2" threaded connections for the tees before and after this valve. So what part numbers can I used to the inlet and outlet taps?

Wow... I just realized how expensive this Fill and Bleed kit will cost. Well worth it for ease though.

Click to expand...

I just bought the 4005510 valve (16/22mm). Massive, and expensive! (about 18us$)

Unfortunately the threaded connections are not 1/2" but 5/8" (like the original Eheim 1250 inlet barb clamp)...
If I want to use it with my 20mm PVC tees I will have to file away the threads on both sides of the valve and hard PVC-glue it onto the tees...
The internal ID is 13mm (1/2") as I suspected.

For the in and outlet valves I would stick with the 3/8" ones (4003512), they're used only during filling & bleeding.

And yes, those Eheim valves are quite expensive but very good quality.
I would never setup a watercooled rig again without such a fill & bleed system...

CD