CritiCool PowerPlant?

[Xiode]

I was adding a GPU block, chipset block, and some other stuff to my cart at CritiCool, and I see it. I Google it and it returned some pretty good reviews.

Have you guys ever had any experience with it? It sounds pretty cool, but I have x2 concerns.

1) It has a molex connector on the back, which it says for external fans. However, it said something about a 5 watt max or something. Would that be enough to power a Rheobus controlling x4 120x38mm Sunons?
2) Do you have to solder the wires? I don't have a solder gun or anything. :(

[Xiode]

Anyone? I'll probably be purchasing this stuff tonight, so I'd like to know whether or not to include it in my purchase. :)

[Guderian]

I haven't figured out what that molex connect is for, since anything I plug into it doesn't seem to be getting any juice.

As for the wires... they have a screw connector to clamp them in place, which only requires some small head screwdrivers. (not as small as the glasses repair ones, but those might work just as well)

[Xiode]

So then no soldering is required? :D In that case I might get it. I haven't soldered anything and I didn't want to mess with my expensive watercooling setup for my first project. :)

Also, many of you are aware of how I'm going to build my watercooling setup, for I have posted many times about it. :p How could I make it so that my external watercooling box has to be getting power for my PC to cut on?

[Guderian]

Put the powerplant in your case, and extend the three wires from your pump along your tubing lines to the powerplant. Pump will turn on with the pc.

[Xiode]

Three wires? Which three?

Wouldn't it be the other way around? Wouldn't it have to be connected to the exernal PSU in the box, then to the powerplant, then to the PC or something? I'm sorry, I'm trying to picture this in my head and I guess I'm picturing it wrong. :(

[Guderian]

The powerplant has two modes: always on, and on when the pc is on. The always on method would be better served if you just skip the powerplant and plug the pump into the wall directly. The powerplant also only gets power from the wall, hence you cant power the powerplant from (either of) your psu(s) with out some serious psu modding.

The other method requires the powerplant be in your mobo in a pci slot. The three wires from the pump (-, +, and Ground) are hooked into the power plant and when the pc's starts the powerplant allows the juice to flow from the wall through the relay, into the pump. Therefore if you put the pump in the other box, you will have to run the cable from the pump up to the pc and into the powerplant. If this is not your intention, then I wouldn't get the powerplant.

[Xiode]

Bah, I just won't bother with it and leave it on all the time. :)

[Alacritan]

I like the Swiftech relay kit better.

http://www.frozencpu.com/cgi-bin/frozencpu/ex-pmp-07.html

[Guderian]

The problem of having to run lines from the pc to the water box still remains if you use the swiftech relay.

Given his situation, I would run the pump to the surge protector the pc is on and leave the pump 'always on'.(no relay)

I would also ditch the spare psu and run two wires down to his water box for the fans.

[Xiode]

I haven't been able to find some molex exentions, and I wouldn't know how to sleeve them. I guess I could if I could find some, and bought a sleeving kit to sleeve them with.

[BeerHunter]

Damn criticool has awesome prices for USA customers.


RBX for only $ 41.00 GPU Maze4 for only $ 38.00..Eheim 1250 only $58.00 ... industrial Sunon Fan $ 8.00 ...

Cheaper than DD or anyplace else by far.

[Alacritan]

That's unusually cheap for an RBX. I still wouldn't buy one though. I heard more than enough complaints about mounting it and the Swiftech MCW6000 is just as good.

[Guderian]

I haven't been able to find some molex exentions, and I wouldn't know how to sleeve them. I guess I could if I could find some, and bought a sleeving kit to sleeve them with.

Spare molex conectors is all you need, aside from some appropriately sized(gauge) wires.

Just cut your extensions in, wind em together, and wrap the connections in electrical tape(or heat shrink tubing from radio shack).

[Xiode]

That's unusually cheap for an RBX. I still wouldn't buy one though. I heard more than enough complaints about mounting it and the Swiftech MCW6000 is just as good.

What problems exist with mounting it?

Also, Guderian, hypothetically if I got a solder gun, I could solder them together instead of twisting the wires, just to be safe, right?

[BeerHunter]

That's unusually cheap for an RBX. I still wouldn't buy one though. I heard more than enough complaints about mounting it and the Swiftech MCW6000 is just as good.


What does "just as good" mean? I generally agree all blocks are "just as good" in that they wil be with 3-5C of one another all things being equal, after all the c/w's for WB's arn't like HSF's which c/w's vary huge but instead range within 5% of one another. So what's your definition? The Swifty is more restrictive and has a higher c/w than RBX. Maybe you mean not as good?

http://overclockers.com/articles373/wbplot19.gif

[Xiode]

On that graph, is lower or higher better?

[BeerHunter]

Like Golf;)

[thorilan]

1) It has a molex connector on the back, which it says for external fans. However, it said something about a 5 watt max or something. Would that be enough to power a Rheobus controlling x4 120x38mm Sunons?
2) Do you have to solder the wires? I don't have a solder gun or anything.
i have several criticools and use them in a lot of setups.

they are great .
answering the first question. 5W isnt enough for 1x sunnon unless you are running at 7 volts i believe Over continious use. i use it to set out the same fams though just to power them up as a kind of convienience without opening the case but usualy use the one on my truepower 550
second question. no soldering of any kind hence it being very convienient .

btw why would you want to put the reo outside the case?

[Xiode]

Because I'm building an external watercooling setup, and I'll be running x4 120x38mm Sunon on x2 Bonnevilles, and I want to be able to control the speed of the fans, plus I have an extra Rheobus laying around. :p

[Silversinksam]

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He's not good with PM's but I will try to help him out. ;)

[BeerHunter]

Are they silent at 5V? Silent I mean if you go in the bathroom at 3am hold them 1ft away from ear will you hear them?

Honestly the motor housing is so large compared to most fans I have a hard time believing thier are very efficient.

[Xiode]

I read that whole thread, and they sound pretty sweet. :) I just have one question, before I go and buy 4 (even though I already bought 4 Sunons :D). Do you know how much CFM they push at full speed? I don't mind noise, as I already have a 92mm Tornado at full speed running 24/7. :p I didn't see it in the specs at the site.

[Guderian]

Yes you can soder them instead of wrapping them, you dont have to though. I soder some of my joints, but I tend to put alot of stress on them, and they break when not sodered. If you aren't like that you might save your self $12 and not get the iron.
either way, make sure you insulate the joint.

as for this 5v stuff... I'm not certain he(xiode) is planning on running his fans @ 5v.

He was planning on running a spare PSU in his water box, and there were some proposed issues with not getting all the volts/amps on the 12v line if you didn't put some stuff on the PSU's 5v line.

EDIT: Sam, are those the 127mm ones?

EDIT #2: On that graph, is lower or higher better?

The lower on the y-axis, the more effective the block. The farther to the right on the x-axis means the block is more restrictive, and would require a pump with more head in order to maintain the same flow as a less restrictive block.

[Xiode]

I don't know, I might solder an additional molex connector to one and just extend it to my box. That way I won't fry my PSU or anything. I'm not sure, I still haven't decided. I might get a TEC later and run it off of the old PSU.

As for the CFM of the fan, anyone know?

[Guderian]

For those who don't know how to convert CMM to CFM the ratio is about 1:35.315.

So 2.9 CMM = 102.4 CFM approx.

[Xiode]

Hrm... the Sunons DO do more CFM, but I guess they aren't as quiet. I'd email that guy and order 4 today, but I'm out of money and I already bought the Sunons. :(