• Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!

Copper Cap Water Block

Overclockers is supported by our readers. When you click a link to make a purchase, we may earn a commission. Learn More.

ghettocomp

Master of teh Ghetto Mods
I had promised several days ago to post some pics of my copper cap water block. So here it all is. :thup:
Many months ago I had decided that i needed to start with water cooling. The primary reason for
this was not so much that I was going to OC, which is what I do, but because my rig is
sealed inside my desk with low air flow. Temps there were just too intolerable.

001.jpg
I took a standard 2 inch Copper Cap ($1.95), a trusty Dremel and Cut about 1/2" from it. Like so:

009.jpg

For $2.50 at Home Depot I had found some Brass Finger Door Pulls that would fit exactly inside the copper Cap:

002.jpg
004.jpg
The next step would involve a little work! first the cleanup of the upper edges of the cap:
006.jpg

Then a little power lapping of the Bottom of the copper cap.
For this I used a standard belt sander with a fine grit paper. This is something that
I would never do to any more expensive waterblock. But for the purpose of getting
a nearly flat surface in a hurry this will do. It was Later lapped by hand using a 600grit wet/dry.
Another note: wear tight gloves when doing this, The copper material
will get very, very, very HOT!
007.jpg

With The extra material I had removed from the cap, i shaped into vanes and soldered
them in with a high grade silver solder, so that they would move water in a more or less outward circular pattern:

003.jpg
sorry about the blurred pic, its all i have on this one.


For most of the rest of this Pictures were lost, not sure where they are so bear with me.
At the Center of the Brass Door Pull I had Drilled a 3/8 hole and soldered in a length of 3/8"
copper tube with the end approximately 1/8 from the bottom. The outside edge of this
waterblock also had installed much of the same thing with about 1/2" Clearance inside for the
outlet tube. The whole thing assembled with a little JB weld and held down by a small bit of Acrylic stock and:

008.jpg



The picture is a little blurry and the camera flash obscured how even the surface for the thermal paste
was. But I assure you that it was VERY LEVEL and of an even thickness.
The Temps before the installation of this water block for me was very high. at the time I had 50+c
under load and 41c at idle. Now the Load temps will sit about 41c and have jumped to as much
as 47c. while I include a little Folding. Idle temps have been hovering around 36-38c

Cost of this project: $5.30 not including taxes

2" Copper Cap $1.95
Solid Brass finger pulls $2.50
Copper Tubing: had it from repair of the kitchen sink..
Plexi: A left over from I don't know what..
Nylon nuts and bolts: appx .85 (mostly leftovers from an auto repair project).


Edit: a couple of weeks after posting this, the price of the copper caps increased nearly twice what I orig paid: $3.95ea!! Inflation really messes with some projects!
 
Last edited:
HAHA that's awesome man :D

There was a variation on this design a while back with copper tacks sticking up in the center of the cap. I almost made one myself but I never finished the project.
 
ghettocomp said:
The silver Solder, I got from Home Depot, cost me somewhere around $8.00 for a roll, mostly silver, no lead. I forget what the percentages were. I origionally used it for some plumbing projects at home.
Silver solder usually comes in sticks like brazing rods and is not soft, I think you used 95/5(regular plumbing solder). I did the exact thing once and the copper cap can be flattened so you dont have a dimple in the center if done before any soldering, simply hammer out from the inside of cap on a flat steel surface.
Looks good though....nicely done.
 
uno said:
Silver solder usually comes in sticks like brazing rods and is not soft, I think you used 95/5(regular plumbing solder). I did the exact thing once and the copper cap can be flattened so you dont have a dimple in the center if done before any soldering, simply hammer out from the inside of cap on a flat steel surface.
Looks good though....nicely done.

true - most "high silver content" silver solders that are commonly sold in DIY stores are no more than 1-2% silver with the rest being tin or some other combination like 95/5 (95% tin, 5% antimony) as lead is a no-no in plumbing applications nowdays. Better ones, such as those used in HVAC applications, are usually 4-7% silver (the rest Sn) with a nice price tag in the $50 per pound range. The solders sold for automotive applications (like acid core solder and other rosin core solders) are usually 40/60, 60/40 or 50/50 (where the first number indicates tin content and the second denotes lead content.)
The solder I normally use on cores is one of the $50 per pound variants that is rated 15,000psi on joints - it is heavy overkill for heatercore pressures but I'm a fan of overkill. Besides, it has a nice 105° F plasticity range that has spoiled me and I can't give it up. :)

On the other hand, silver brazing rods, can be 15-75% Ag with the rest being copper, a mixture of Cu and Zn, phos/copper or silver/phos/copper alloys. You can normally spot these by the liquidus temps which are usually over 1150°-1250° F and the psi ratings (50,000- 90,000psi or higher).
 
dude i wanna do this! i was gonna try the beehive approach but somehow this looks alittle better...although the beehive got temps of 28C-32C, im in a similar situation, dont wanna OC, just quiet my compt...11 fans on a dually isnt easy.

http://www.overclockers.com/articles678/

he redid it with a twisting thing inside which dropped temps

i vote for a tutorial..this is awsome...i needa make 2, then a chipset one..i assume this is a socket A, looks like an XP? barton maybe? im an MP guy, i wouldnt know. and how did you go about mounting that? springs? home made backplate? how much does it weigh?

EDIT: If you could post some tips or sites on soldering with copper thatd be sweet..i can solder wires no prob and am well aware this is much different, as ive never done it before, although i do have a torch and some tough flux. i hope to be building some of these in the next couple weeks
 
Last edited:
sunrunner20 said:
Lol, How much heat do 180mhz P-pro's put out?

The Ppro's I have are 200Mhz and the stock HSs get almost too hot to touch, (and no fans, pretty much the standard Compaq approach then). That is the primary reason I set out to find the cheapest way to build watercooling for them.
besides most of my rigs are sealed in a closet and get very little actual airflow.


MadSkillzMan said:
i needa make 2, then a chipset one..i assume this is a socket A, looks like an XP? barton maybe? im an MP guy, i wouldnt know. and how did you go about mounting that? springs? home made backplate? how much does it weigh?

The CPU was an Athlon XP 2400, was- it just smoked out a couple of pins underneath prob was a faulty cpu anyway.
as for mounting it had a backplate the same size as the one holding it in the pic. no springs just long nylon 8-32 bolts. the Acrylic or plexi, whatever, was 1/8In thick and when tightened slightly would flex giving a spring like action. this held this waterblock very well on the CPU. And as for the weight.. I never did check, it is slightly less than the origional 2" coppercap.
I actually put this thing in my main rig to test it and liked how it worked so much that I left it there. Now I'll have to build more for the P-Pro dualie server I orig meant it for.
 
He said it smoked out some pins so it was probably something unrelated to the block itself. What I have no clue since I've never heard of pins frying.
 
oh im not sure what he meant..ive never once toasted a CPU...so i woultn know..im still doing this lol

maybe something shorted? also can u post pics of the backplate?
 
I doubt that it was the WB itself. If the bottom of it was flat then it would be like any other HSF/water block. 3 reasons I can think of might be: Faulty cpu, block was crooked, or something about the backplate/nuts shorting something. Did you use a spacer?

VERY cool idea tho. Set up a cheap watercooling for a 500mhz overclock K6-3 :D

JT
 
Back