help, horrible temps!!!!

[whoever]

okay so I jsut got my water cooling setup

mcw 6002-a
dtek core
via 1300
dd maze 4 gpu
clear flex 60

okay so there are my components. So anyways I have horrible temps. My xp 2000+, stock, 133X12, or what ever it is at 1.6V was getting 45C!

Then I checked the block and it was mounted bad. So I remounted it and now I get 38C. 38 is doable, but I have water cooling!. I was getting 32 with a tornadoe at 200X9.5 @1.85! So this isn't right, I know the tornatoe is powerful, but this is rediculous.

whate else is happening?
Vid card isn't working right. Got it to display 1 out of 2 monitors once, and when it did everything was distorted with lines gowing though. It may be heat issues, it may be fried. I plugged in an old 32mb card with a passive cooler. It posts the temps for me to read


what if I try to boot? It gets all the way to the XP screen and then crahses. It flashes a blue screen (simular to the one you get with ram erros, maybe the same) and then restarts. I can't read the screen and I can't diagnos the problem. I tested each stick and got the same results. Disapionting.




any suggestions??????? Im totally stuck. Thanks for replys.

[dicecca112]

make sure there are no kinks in your system, make sure there is no bubbles in your waterblock, and the system is completely bleed.

[whoever]

there are a few minor bubles in the system, but its 99% bled. Could just a slight bit of air, really screw the temps over like that?


more suggestions! I love them and thank you all!

[SomaGaze]

how are you cooling your heatercore?

[nikhsub1]

OK, first, what mobo? If it reads the insocket thermistor, it would likely read HIGHER with H20 than with air, you have no fannage around the CPU socket anymore. Pics of the system?

[situman]

have u tried reseating the cpu? make sure everything is tight (i.e. ram , vidcard...)make sure u didnt get arctic silver everywhjere....psu sockets plugged in right?

[diehrd]

I would go back slowly over the Water block instlation..I would also be curious to know if you are using an 80mm fan or 120mm and if it is shrouded ?

[johan851]

how are you cooling your heatercore?
That was my first thought too. Also, make sure that your tubing isn't pulling the CPU block in any direction. That'll cause uneven contact with the CPU and make temps not so good.

If your video card is distorting, and wasn't before, then reseat your GPU waterblock as well.

[ls7corvete]

Temps seem ok, 38 is fine, some fine tunning always helps. Something besides heat is causing instabilitys. You get any water anywhere? How are voltages?

Something is up with your comp, but its not heat.

[whoever]

Temps seem ok, 38 is fine, some fine tunning always helps. Something besides heat is causing instabilitys. You get any water anywhere? How are voltages?

Something is up with your comp, but its not heat.


38 Idle is fine for an overcloked system. Not a stock one

My voltages arn't as steady as I would like them but steady enough. CPU alternates between 1.60V and 1.61V I will bump it to 1.65 and see if it helps. It should be able to take the heat.

Also, I have a 120mm fan attached to the radiator, no shroud. I ran some screws through the fan holes and then inbetween the rad fins. Its not the best setup but it works. I can feel the cold air blowing though. The radiator is not warm, or hot. It feels neutral. I can hear water trickling in the rad, which makes me think there is air in there. The air won't come out though so I am doubt full.

Additionally I do agree, while I think these temps suck, Its not crappy temps that are keeping me from booting.

I will check some old ram I have lying around; I put some heat spreaders on my current ram, I don't OC ram, and they don't do anything but look cool, I will peel them off and see if they were messign up the ram.

I have an unuassually clocked 5700, Its like an Ultra with out the ddr2, there is no molex dapater, and never has been for the card. It draws its power form the agp.

I tired reseating te card and it did the same thing. Its possible that the block is mounted badly on the card, I have also remounted the gpu block.

but I cannot get any image from the card at this piont sometimes the monitor will come out fo sleep mode but it doesn't display anything. Thats why I am using a 32 mb card for testing.

I am using an abit NF7. I see your piont about the temps averging higher now that im off air. I will try to accept that and if I can pinpiont my instability I will do some testing. My system seemed to crash at about 54C before and I usuaaly kept it at about 48C, so we will see what happens


thanks for the posts, they are much appreciated.

My gpu is a sad story I hope I can fix that, infact I hope that nothing is broken casue after spoending $200 on WC I won't have $$$ to replace any parts.

thank you!

[nikhsub1]

Yep, the NF7's read the insocket thermistor... and read ususally higher than other boards. I wouldn't worry too much about the reported temp, use it to make sure you don't have a bunk mount etc. A shroud will really help out too, likely 2-3C.

[ls7corvete]

Idle is not good, didnt knowtice those were idle temps. IME bios is more than idle.(windows sends the cpu into a low power state). Anyways like I said "fine tunning" will get you where you need to be. shrouds really help noise and heat.

Anyways, I have a 5700U as well. without having a molex for the gpu I worry that maybe the mobo voltage regulation is messed up and causeing problems on your system. Even without overclocking the vid card using just the agp slot for power is drawing alot.

Hard to tell what the problem is but that is anouther option to think about.

[whoever]

yeah but there isn't even a place to plug a molex in! I couldn't do it if I wanted too!

[johan851]

Also, I have a 120mm fan attached to the radiator, no shroud. I ran some screws through the fan holes and then inbetween the rad fins. Its not the best setup but it works. I can feel the cold air blowing though. The radiator is not warm, or hot. It feels neutral. I can hear water trickling in the rad, which makes me think there is air in there. The air won't come out though so I am doubt full.
Well...this could be it. A shroud makes a very big difference in the amount of air that moves through the radiator. There's a large dead spot without one, and the only parts of the rad that do get air without a shroud are the areas right next to the fan's blades. I'd definitely recommend getting a shroud. You're right; it works. Apparently it only works for about 38C. :p Without that shroud you're probably using only about 30% of your radiator, if that.

Hearing air (or water, I suppose) in the radiator is another problem - it means that water isn't going through the entire area of the radiator, and it's not getting cooled as well as it could. I'd suggest rotating your case (or just the heatercore) until you get those bubbles out.

[whoever]

well Ive already given it a pretty good rotation. We will see. Also, i had a though, i recently added a passive sink, http://store.yahoo.com/directron/zmnb47j.html , and I used as5 adhesive, I don't know, but it could be possible that that is causing my system crashes!


Current status?

replace fan (its loud and moves little air.
Buy a shroud.


whats still needs to be fixed?

OK, so lets say a shroud will fix temps,

GPU isn't working, computer crashes in windows boot.

GPU-
may be overheating,
may be fried,
block may have some contact with metal,
as5 may be connecting a bridge on the card

Boot up crash-.
Ram may be faulty
Ram channels may be burned out from possible leak (although I doubt it)
Ram heat spreaders may be making contact with metal connector on ram
NB may be overheating from as5 adhesive and zlaman sink (though I doubt it since that stock cooler was pretty crappy)
CPU may need a voltage boost (although its at stock so I doubt it)

thats all I can think of. any other suggestion will be appreciated, there really isn't much I can do in testing the NB, and the GPU may have as5 all over it, can't remember, so I will check that, I will try to get the bubbles out of the rad, and in the meantime I will buy a shroud, its only $10, drop in the bucket.

[whoever]

also it look like from dteks site, that the fan should be drawing air of off the radiator, whats your opinon on that? Ive been pushing.

also, this makes me not care bout as5 connecting bridges.

"Not Electrically Conductive: Arctic Silver 5 was formulated to conduct heat, not electricity. (While much safer than electrically conductive silver and copper greases, Arctic Silver 5 should be kept away from electrical traces, pins, and leads. While it is not electrically conductive, the compound is very slightly capacitive and could potentially cause problems if it bridges two close-proximity electrical paths.)"

I asume that there warning is so when some guys covers his mobo in it and breaks his computer they don't have to pay for it.

[johan851]

Definitely check out the AS 5 on the GPU. To test the NB, just see how hot it is. I'm referring to the finger test. :p It may need a fan, but I doubt it.

*EDIT* Pushing and pulling are pretty close, but I believe pulling edges pushing out by a bit. Do that if possible.

[DarkJester]

also it look like from dteks site, that the fan should be drawing air of off the radiator, whats your opinon on that? Ive been pushing.


Pulling is considered a little better, but it shouldnt matter that much.

What model 120mm fan are you using ?

[whoever]

right now an ever cool, someone made a thread aobut how they are quite and still move air, its the dumbest buying decision I've made yet. Im going to buy either an L1A or a H1A. Until I get the cash, I will be using some unstikered fan that pushes about 100CFM, but is nosiy as hell!

the shroud should come by wedsady assuming they ship it by tomarrow, thats with ground, it sure is nice living 40 minutes away from dtek.



so what about the other problems?

[johan851]

Well shoot, just drive to DTek and pick it up! :D

If you're looking for a good 120mm, check out the sticky for the Sanyo Denkis in the classifieds. They're quite good fans, especially for what you pay. Don't know if you have access yet, but once you do, head over there.

[BeerHunter]

nm

[whoever]

Well shoot, just drive to DTek and pick it up! :D

If you're looking for a good 120mm, check out the sticky for the Sanyo Denkis in the classifieds. They're quite good fans, especially for what you pay. Don't know if you have access yet, but once you do, head over there.


I would in a heart beat but insurance rates killed me after I had an accident, so I don't drive anymore.

so what aobut hte system crashing though? Itt not from heat does any one have more suggestions, or should I just keep trying?

[johan851]

Well...did you check out how hot your NB heatsink is? If it's cool to the touch it could be mounted improperly. Those Northbridges are usually pretty concave and hard to mount stuff on.

[whoever]

um I don't know, i really havn't had the pc on for more than a few minutes, I think that it may be the northbridge. Maybe I will mount it with push pins? I don't know.

[johan851]

Yeah, mount with push pins and make sure you have enough TIM under there.

[pwnt by pat]

Go back to air. Set the componants on your desk and test them one by one with all your "stock" comoponants. If you have another machine, check them with that. Once you isolate the problem or if everything works as it's supposed to, then report back.

[whoever]

well, unfortunately I don't have extra parts lying around besides a vid card and ram, so I know the vid card is shot, so maybe the ram is too. I sure hope not. CPU is still fine and we will see if I can lower those temps with a shroud and with some finer bleeding.

thanks! a lot wish me luck!

[whoever]

well,the ram tested out, I remoutned the gpu and cpu, and bled the lines a bit more, I will remount the nb cooler, and we will see how it goes tonight.

[pwnt by pat]

Remember, all you need is a video card, mobo, cpu, ram, and powersupply to test. If you only use those and you say the ram checks out, it's only a matter of time until you target the problem.

[stang8118]

When i set up my H20 kit a few days ago, the only way i could get ALL the air out of it was turning it COMPLETELY upside down. My CPU block was trapping in a ton of air even when i left it on it's side. When you set it back up turn it all the way around (so the bottom of the case is toward the ceiling :)

[darthdana]

Yeah, its times like these that I look at my often chastised koolance case and say, wow, 44C at load for dual 248 opterons@ 2.4, not bad not bad, one day it will be a dual phase change when it grows up.

[whoever]

well I can't say that If I were to do it all over again i still would have bought this stuff, but since im so close im not willing to give up.

okay, so I remounted the cpu block again, and fixed up the as5 (did a primo job of applying it!) and blew out the socket holes with some spray, let the spary evaperate (sometime it squirts warer, so Im just being safe) and then I hooked it back up.

I remounted the nb passive sink, I mixed some as5 with the AS adheasive, I think that it was not cooling well in the middle, it should do great now, I did a test to see if it was still adhesive and it was, acutally, maybe better. SO that should be good.

I remounted the dd maze 4 on my 5700, cleaned up the as5 (it wasn't bad) and tightend the screws in 1/8th turn segments like the DD video says.

still no video

So I pull unintall the block and examine the core, It has a chip in it, a very small one in the corner, and it may have a crack in the other corner, This might be since when I initially insalled the blck I cranked it all the way down and crushed the core. It might be because I bashed something into it when I was uninstalling that dang vga sink from zalaman. Either way the card is gone. All $127 of it.

So I tried to install the block on the old card, a TNT2 32mb I can see after I pop the sink, and the holes arn't lined up right. So I put some as5 on there, since I wiped off the white stuff and installed the original sink. It would have been fun to overclock something like that.

So I boot and I was still getting crappy temps. Then I turned my case upright and all the sudden the computer restarts! what the heck! So I power off to check everything. Then I power on all seems fine, three secounds pass, the mobo sounds the post beep, the monitor just comes out of sleep mode and then the comp shuts off.

So I hit the power button to turn it back on. Nothing, I pull the plug and the red mobo sleep light goes off, then plug it back in and hit pwoer button, It comes on, but only for three secounds. I can't seem to find the problem. I tell you, its days like this that make me sure in all my mind that I don't want to be an IT guy.

help would be apreciated now more than ever. Im pulling an all nighter tonight, so suggestions are much appreciated. Much!

[pwnt by pat]

Gather as many extra parts from friends and neighbors as you can. Then systematicly test everything. Once you have a "working" pile and a "questionable" pile, assemble everything you need to post using air cooling. Make sure all fans [in the psu] spin and everything turns on. This was a nf7 right? If so, check malvescorner.com and pull out the multimeter and check the voltages.

[whoever]

I think this is going to take a long long time. I'll bet that the dang psu is shorting out, those crappy molex connectors do that a lot, Ive topped most of them but I probably missed one. This is extremly frusturating, I have crappy temps and my comp wont power on. Im going to have to pull everyhting from the case.


The CPU should be fine, but I don't know any one that runs AMD. I know the gpu is dead, so im using the TNT, and th ram tested out fine. THis just really sucks. It it does. Well I will see if I can get it to boot tonight.

$#%$%ing water cooling . . .

[pwnt by pat]

You could always give all your stuff to me - or just the wc stuff... Yes, taking it out of the case should have been the first thing you have done. The psu might be a problem. How much have you hacked it up? Like I said, make it as simple as possible and when you get it working again, remember what you did. That way if you transfer it again and the same thing happens, you know what to do.

[whoever]

what do you mean by hacked? I have a lot of cut end on fans and all sorts of crap. I've got a good 4-5 hours of work. but the psu itself is sturdy.

[whoever]

okay just got the shourd, this isn't worth $14 shipped. But hell if lowers temps then great

[HiProfile]

First I'd like to ask pat if he can underline, italisize, and caps his posts too, I can't read them well enough yet :rolleyes: j/k


I'd highly suggest you go back to air and see what you get. If you get worse temps with air this time than you did before WC'ing - assuming it doesn't start rebooting/sleep-mode-exiting like now - then its probably the PSU. If nothing else, go to a place that gives 100% refunds for PSU's they sell, get a 400 watt PSU, then test your setup with it. If it still gives you problems, its probably the board. I'd also suggest that before trying a PSU if your air temps prove worse, I'd try bending the thermosistor below the CPU up a tad, high enough so that it can hold the CPU off the ZIF socket a tad (obviously push it down flush when you lock it in), and use some TIM paste on it.

My guess if you still have probs, it would be the board. I have an idea that if it works with air again, but then not with water after that, you're having board-cooling probs, like some bad mosfets. Not fried, just sensitive to temps - on my NFS-7 rev2 with a 80mm sucking through the HSF and a 140mm psu fan above, the power fets rise to 135F (via an infrared thermometer).

[pwnt by pat]

SoRrY, iS tHiS bEtTer?


Wow, that takes a long time to type. But yeah, this is my new thing and this is how I get my thrills, humor me.

What I mean by hacked, whoever, is how much have you done to it? I know I have cut several cables out of mine, like the odd plug that I can never find a use for. I cut extra connecters and channels out of my psus and sometimes replace the fans too.

[whoever]

yeah I was actually surpriesd at how hacked it was. I got it to respond diffretnly not better. I unplugged everything! Even the 4 pin P4 connecotor. I got it to boot. Yay!!! So I hop into bios now my idle is 52C! holy @*&$! And then it shuts down after that! Im kinda considerign Im considering that my cpu might be dead. It has a slight chip in the core. I don't know if its serious or not but Im a little tempted to just sell it all off on ebay and hope for enoguh cash to set me up with a 64 bit.

[pwnt by pat]

I unplugged everything!
*sigh*

Socket temp, right? Don't trust that at all as it changes from bios to bios as well as cooling to cooling. It could be reporting more than 10c over. If your cpu is chipped and it boots, then it should be fine. If it's not booting/posting then it's dead.

[whoever]

well sometimes it posts. I don't know what the problem is, It could very well be psu. Lets think, the gpu is fine, atleast eh TNT2. The ram is fine. So the only thing I am unsure of is the psu and the cpu, and sicne its probalby not hte cpu and I need to upgrade anyways; then I should probably buy a cheaper psu. I am using a True blue 480W right now. Also can a post card tell me that the psu is shorting out? Also I will unmount the mobo to check to see if its shorting but I seriously doubt it.


But first clarify something with me. First I say that I have 38 Idle, which is a high temp. and then it goes up to 50C, now weather or not the mobo is reading higher than it should, it shouldn't move from 38 to 50. Also, what could casue the system to shut off after running for about 1 1/2 minutes. Please elaberate. Im frusturated. I would really like to get up and running. I really didn't plan to have 3 weeks of down time.

[pwnt by pat]

FUDGE!! (g-rated) I just spent a half of an hour typing up something and it all vanashed 'cause my laptop doesn't like using an external keyboard at all.

All I can say now is keep testing stuff one at a time. Check your psu and empty motherboard voltages (empty as in no cpu). Take your time and slowly check parts one by one.

Also, check your pump. Open it up and see if anything happened to the inside. Your VIA might possibly be shot. These pumps are definately known to be unreliable - even brand new.

Bios very well may have influenced the change in temeperatures. The old bios may have reported under while this one reports over. You never know with in socket temp sensors.

The problems are sounding more and more to be psu related.

[whoever]

that sounds good. Really good. Thans I thingk i may buy this buy zalman its supposed to be quite. It very well may be psu, and I'll bet your right, i sure did have a lot of splices in the wires.

http://www.newegg.com/app/viewproductdesc.asp?description=17-103-212&DEPA=0

[whoever]

okay I bought the psu hope its a good one!

http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=17-159-022&depa=0

[pwnt by pat]

Output: +3.3V@28A, +5V@35A, -5V@0.5A, +12V@15A, -12V@0.8A, +5VSB@2.5A
Efficiency: >65% at full load

The 12v line is really REALLY lacking in amps but for $35, it seems decent. The efficiency could be a little tighter but for that price rance, it's expected. Too bad yourr psu budget isn't twice that as that could get you a forton 530...

http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=17-104-968&depa=0
Now that's a powersupply [within a budget - we all know PCP&C are beasts].

[whoever]

well you were dead on! So I ordered the new psu, and when I went home I opened up the old one, an Antec 480W true blue. And the grounding nut that holds the cable down was totally half way up the bolt so I tightend it down and everything works! Whoo hoo! So the new psu should come today and I will return it and then replace the gpu that I broke.

What other good news? Got windoze running. Called M$ and re-activated windows (to many hardware changes) and they gave me a new code, took 5 minutes, people get too passonite about the activations, its easy!

The temps were all fixed! I don't think its that the probe reads 10C higher. I think that its that the WC system can deal with a lot of heat past a certain point. So what I think happens is the water block can only abosrb say 50% of the heat at idle hence 38C temp, but then at load with 2V running through a tried AMD at load its only 49C, wheres as in air it was 32 idle with a 48C load. So I think that the properties of WC are simply diffrent and its going to close the gap between idle and load.

Overall, I didn't hit 2500mhz like I wanted to. But hell im on an Unlocked 2000+. I hit 1900mhz on air (extreme air at 70dbs!), 200X9.5 @1.85V. On water im at 200X10 @2V and about 30dbs. I will probably be able to hit 2100mhz (10.5X) with some fine tuning. and maybe 2200mhz once the system is 100% air free and the as5 seats.

Thanks for your on top of it responses. And all you help ocforums.com truly is great!

[pwnt by pat]

Glad we got you all straightened out. Something I didn't notice earlier: 200X9.5 @1.85V vs 200X10 @2V. This is actually where your temperature problem lies. It's not the fact that your system sucks, it's that you are compairing 1.85 on air to 2.0 on water. A low 30's will RARELY happen on water with 2.0v. Oh, and is your core a rev a or b? That will make a major difference and is probably the reason you can't go any higher.

[whoever]

i think im on a tbird, and the funny thing is, stock I got 38C that 1.6v and and and at 2v I get 39C idle, its pretty much the same. Problem is my processor crashes at 50C was that way on air too.

But yeah thank a lot! The system is stable, and incase your woundering I coudl probalby run it on high 1.9Vs but the abit board jumps from 1.95 to 2V so thats why. Anyways I will be buying a 2600M with the good stepping soon.


Thanks for all you quality help and patience!

[pwnt by pat]

Tbird? Hmm. Tbred for 2000, but what revision: a or b? A's had hard times breaking 2ghz while b's could go as high as you could feed 'em voltage and keep the temp down. I just want to clear one thing up real quick: it's not idle temps that matter, it's load. Plus, excaliberpc.com for the mobile 2600. Get the mpmw. Mine is doing 215x11 @1.7 (~1.68 actual) with an aluminum heatsink that only begins to warm up under stress.

[whoever]

whats the mpmw? I know they have the two diff steppings, IQ . . and the AQ. . .


I don't know what rev it is. All I know is I got it in the spring of 02 from CompUSA, bought the first one retail with a warranty (that was before the days of online Forums and over clocking for me) and when I burned it I got a new one in spring 02.

I have no idea about the rev though, Its brown and it unlocked with the pencil tric if that helps. the origianl was green. I thought that it was a barton core, but I unlocked it so i guess not!

Anyways, If I can pull 2V with this old 2000+ how far do you think I could push a good 2600? Im hoping 3ghz!


btw if it makes any diff I was able to achieve 1.9ghz on extremem air, but I think you might be right, I'll be I have an A, cause even though I was only at 48C on air, I wasn't abe to hit 2000mhz on anything, and recently I have, so it sounds like Im on a A chip. Also I had to give the chipset and extra .1V of juice, I guess 400mhz fsb is a litle high for that old chip and that ceared up my stability issues, I'll back it down thought the make sure, it would suck If I burned my board!

[pwnt by pat]

For the 2600's, don't concider any stepping except the IQY,, stepping. The MPMW is the other stepping. Hitting 3ghz with a mobile isn't out of the question but it'll take extreme cooling like waterchilling or phase change. Get a new mobo before you get a new cpu. It will help more I think.

[whoever]

well what could I hit on water? People are pulling 2.5ghz with out to much trouble on the 2500s even, and even more commonly on the 2600s, so being on water, doesn't that sound reasonable?

[pwnt by pat]

For the IQYHA MPMW chips, 2.5-2.6+ on air isn't unheard of but that's with 1.85+ voltage usually. These chips have a very high diminish return on voltage, watercooling on them tends to be about 2v. Depending on how well your other componants can hold up, you should be able to expect 2.7-2.85 on water with 2.0+v. That is just a guestimate, remember. You might get a bunk chip.

[whoever]

awsome, so lets say I wanted to drop my temps a bit what would be the best way, I know I should jsut start a new thread but I'll ask anyways. Keep in mind of what I have

Via aqua 1300
Swifty MCW 6002A (1/2 barbs)
pro core
Rad
Generic fan
DD maze 4


what would cool the system best? A new pump? Of r a secound rad?

also, how important are fans on the radiator? For instance, if I cut the air flow in say half, how much will this effect my temps, cuase my rad doesn't even feel hot right now.

[pwnt by pat]

Initally, I would say the pump only 'cause I don't like my Via - leaked without being touched and then the housing broke off really REALLY easy. But, a new pump won't really net you too of a much performance increase unless you get another 1300 and run them in series. In fact, that's not too bad an idea and for $20, you'll like your temps a lot better. Is your rad a procore or a jr-120 core? If it's the later, upgrade it. If not, it's fine - but bigger is better and for another $20, you can get a caprice or 2-343 core. Oh and you could trade your 6002a for my ww... if you wanted. I don't know if you would see an increase but you'd have a ww..heh.

Airflow and pressure across a rad have a large affect on the temperature of the system. More is better, in general. However, more also equates to louder. If you want to cut back on noise, get a second fan and shroud and set up push-pull and 7v or 5v mod the fans. Pushpull on 12v makes an ignorable difference however, when fan speed and pressure drops (pressure drops exponentally with voltage decrease), push-pull makes a noticable difference. A member here has notices a 2-3c gain with push-pull over a single pull while going from a loud woosh to an almost unnoticable breeze. I don't remember who it was though - it was recent.

Oh, and this was assumed but if you don't have a shroud, get one now and run a single-pull setup.

[whoever]

okay so you push the air through 5V and then pull it 7V. Cool, I have a fan controller, thingy. It seems that I can turn the fans all the way down unless im loading the cpu. So thats cool, I will probalby buy anather fan since I have to by more CCs form directron anyways (cracked em all when leak testing)

thats a good idea!.

I may look into a secound via, now would that be like

via 1>rad>via 2>water block>gpu block>

or

Via 1> Via 2> Rad > Water block > Gpu block >

Thanks a lot! You've been a great help. Im having trouble with my bios now, but the WC setup is good!

[pwnt by pat]

You're welcome. It doesn't matter where in the system you have the second pump but it's easier to prime by having both right after your fill spot, be it rad or tee. For pushpull, run both at either 5v or 7v. 5v will be silent but will take a bigger hit in temps. 7v will be fairly quiet and not-so-bad on temps, and 12v is loudest but best performance. But yeah, don't push on 5 and pull on 7, push/pull on the same thing.

[whoever]

gotcha.