help, horrible temps!!!!

okay so I jsut got my water cooling setup

mcw 6002-a
dtek core
via 1300
dd maze 4 gpu
clear flex 60

okay so there are my components. So anyways I have horrible temps. My xp 2000+, stock, 133X12, or what ever it is at 1.6V was getting 45C!

Then I checked the block and it was mounted bad. So I remounted it and now I get 38C. 38 is doable, but I have water cooling!. I was getting 32 with a tornadoe at 200X9.5 @1.85! So this isn't right, I know the tornatoe is powerful, but this is rediculous.

whate else is happening?
Vid card isn't working right. Got it to display 1 out of 2 monitors once, and when it did everything was distorted with lines gowing though. It may be heat issues, it may be fried. I plugged in an old 32mb card with a passive cooler. It posts the temps for me to read


what if I try to boot? It gets all the way to the XP screen and then crahses. It flashes a blue screen (simular to the one you get with ram erros, maybe the same) and then restarts. I can't read the screen and I can't diagnos the problem. I tested each stick and got the same results. Disapionting.




any suggestions??????? Im totally stuck. Thanks for replys.

make sure there are no kinks in your system, make sure there is no bubbles in your waterblock, and the system is completely bleed.

there are a few minor bubles in the system, but its 99% bled. Could just a slight bit of air, really screw the temps over like that?


more suggestions! I love them and thank you all!

how are you cooling your heatercore?

OK, first, what mobo? If it reads the insocket thermistor, it would likely read HIGHER with H20 than with air, you have no fannage around the CPU socket anymore. Pics of the system?

have u tried reseating the cpu? make sure everything is tight (i.e. ram , vidcard...)make sure u didnt get arctic silver everywhjere....psu sockets plugged in right?

I would go back slowly over the Water block instlation..I would also be curious to know if you are using an 80mm fan or 120mm and if it is shrouded ?

how are you cooling your heatercore?

Click to expand...

That was my first thought too. Also, make sure that your tubing isn't pulling the CPU block in any direction. That'll cause uneven contact with the CPU and make temps not so good.

If your video card is distorting, and wasn't before, then reseat your GPU waterblock as well.

Temps seem ok, 38 is fine, some fine tunning always helps. Something besides heat is causing instabilitys. You get any water anywhere? How are voltages?

Something is up with your comp, but its not heat.

ls7corvete said:

Temps seem ok, 38 is fine, some fine tunning always helps. Something besides heat is causing instabilitys. You get any water anywhere? How are voltages?

Something is up with your comp, but its not heat.

Click to expand...

38 Idle is fine for an overcloked system. Not a stock one

My voltages arn't as steady as I would like them but steady enough. CPU alternates between 1.60V and 1.61V I will bump it to 1.65 and see if it helps. It should be able to take the heat.

Also, I have a 120mm fan attached to the radiator, no shroud. I ran some screws through the fan holes and then inbetween the rad fins. Its not the best setup but it works. I can feel the cold air blowing though. The radiator is not warm, or hot. It feels neutral. I can hear water trickling in the rad, which makes me think there is air in there. The air won't come out though so I am doubt full.

Additionally I do agree, while I think these temps suck, Its not crappy temps that are keeping me from booting.

I will check some old ram I have lying around; I put some heat spreaders on my current ram, I don't OC ram, and they don't do anything but look cool, I will peel them off and see if they were messign up the ram.

I have an unuassually clocked 5700, Its like an Ultra with out the ddr2, there is no molex dapater, and never has been for the card. It draws its power form the agp.

I tired reseating te card and it did the same thing. Its possible that the block is mounted badly on the card, I have also remounted the gpu block.

but I cannot get any image from the card at this piont sometimes the monitor will come out fo sleep mode but it doesn't display anything. Thats why I am using a 32 mb card for testing.

I am using an abit NF7. I see your piont about the temps averging higher now that im off air. I will try to accept that and if I can pinpiont my instability I will do some testing. My system seemed to crash at about 54C before and I usuaaly kept it at about 48C, so we will see what happens


thanks for the posts, they are much appreciated.

My gpu is a sad story I hope I can fix that, infact I hope that nothing is broken casue after spoending $200 on WC I won't have $$$ to replace any parts.

thank you!

Yep, the NF7's read the insocket thermistor... and read ususally higher than other boards. I wouldn't worry too much about the reported temp, use it to make sure you don't have a bunk mount etc. A shroud will really help out too, likely 2-3C.

Idle is not good, didnt knowtice those were idle temps. IME bios is more than idle.(windows sends the cpu into a low power state). Anyways like I said "fine tunning" will get you where you need to be. shrouds really help noise and heat.

Anyways, I have a 5700U as well. without having a molex for the gpu I worry that maybe the mobo voltage regulation is messed up and causeing problems on your system. Even without overclocking the vid card using just the agp slot for power is drawing alot.

Hard to tell what the problem is but that is anouther option to think about.

yeah but there isn't even a place to plug a molex in! I couldn't do it if I wanted too!

Also, I have a 120mm fan attached to the radiator, no shroud. I ran some screws through the fan holes and then inbetween the rad fins. Its not the best setup but it works. I can feel the cold air blowing though. The radiator is not warm, or hot. It feels neutral. I can hear water trickling in the rad, which makes me think there is air in there. The air won't come out though so I am doubt full.

Click to expand...

Well...this could be it. A shroud makes a very big difference in the amount of air that moves through the radiator. There's a large dead spot without one, and the only parts of the rad that do get air without a shroud are the areas right next to the fan's blades. I'd definitely recommend getting a shroud. You're right; it works. Apparently it only works for about 38C. Without that shroud you're probably using only about 30% of your radiator, if that.

Hearing air (or water, I suppose) in the radiator is another problem - it means that water isn't going through the entire area of the radiator, and it's not getting cooled as well as it could. I'd suggest rotating your case (or just the heatercore) until you get those bubbles out.

well Ive already given it a pretty good rotation. We will see. Also, i had a though, i recently added a passive sink, http://store.yahoo.com/directron/zmnb47j.html , and I used as5 adhesive, I don't know, but it could be possible that that is causing my system crashes!


Current status?

replace fan (its loud and moves little air.
Buy a shroud.


whats still needs to be fixed?

OK, so lets say a shroud will fix temps,

GPU isn't working, computer crashes in windows boot.

GPU-
may be overheating,
may be fried,
block may have some contact with metal,
as5 may be connecting a bridge on the card

Boot up crash-.
Ram may be faulty
Ram channels may be burned out from possible leak (although I doubt it)
Ram heat spreaders may be making contact with metal connector on ram
NB may be overheating from as5 adhesive and zlaman sink (though I doubt it since that stock cooler was pretty crappy)
CPU may need a voltage boost (although its at stock so I doubt it)

thats all I can think of. any other suggestion will be appreciated, there really isn't much I can do in testing the NB, and the GPU may have as5 all over it, can't remember, so I will check that, I will try to get the bubbles out of the rad, and in the meantime I will buy a shroud, its only $10, drop in the bucket.

also it look like from dteks site, that the fan should be drawing air of off the radiator, whats your opinon on that? Ive been pushing.

also, this makes me not care bout as5 connecting bridges.

"Not Electrically Conductive: Arctic Silver 5 was formulated to conduct heat, not electricity. (While much safer than electrically conductive silver and copper greases, Arctic Silver 5 should be kept away from electrical traces, pins, and leads. While it is not electrically conductive, the compound is very slightly capacitive and could potentially cause problems if it bridges two close-proximity electrical paths.)"

I asume that there warning is so when some guys covers his mobo in it and breaks his computer they don't have to pay for it.

Definitely check out the AS 5 on the GPU. To test the NB, just see how hot it is. I'm referring to the finger test. It may need a fan, but I doubt it.

*EDIT* Pushing and pulling are pretty close, but I believe pulling edges pushing out by a bit. Do that if possible.

whoever said:

also it look like from dteks site, that the fan should be drawing air of off the radiator, whats your opinon on that? Ive been pushing.

Click to expand...

Pulling is considered a little better, but it shouldnt matter that much.

What model 120mm fan are you using ?

right now an ever cool, someone made a thread aobut how they are quite and still move air, its the dumbest buying decision I've made yet. Im going to buy either an L1A or a H1A. Until I get the cash, I will be using some unstikered fan that pushes about 100CFM, but is nosiy as hell!

the shroud should come by wedsady assuming they ship it by tomarrow, thats with ground, it sure is nice living 40 minutes away from dtek.



so what about the other problems?

Well shoot, just drive to DTek and pick it up!

If you're looking for a good 120mm, check out the sticky for the Sanyo Denkis in the classifieds. They're quite good fans, especially for what you pay. Don't know if you have access yet, but once you do, head over there.