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Multiple T-lines

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em00guy

Member
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
What would bethe disadvantages to installing multiple t-lines to bleed air from different points in a WC circuit. For example. one after/before the rad, one after/before the pump and one after after/before the cpu block?
 
While such an idea may increase ease of bleeding, it would completely assasinate your flow. T fittings provide a significant measure of backpressure, and it would be especially disadvantageous to use as many as you mention. In the end, all we are talking about is a few more minute sor hours of bleed and then months possibly of solid running, not wortht he sacrifice.
 
T's are not flow killers if done right, but I'd think a total of 2 would be enough. I'd put 1 close to the pump inlet and another on the highest tube in the system. Fluid would be added or removed from the bottom one and the top would allow air an easy way out when filling (or in when draining).
 
gungeek said:
T's are not flow killers if done right, but I'd think a total of 2 would be enough. I'd put 1 close to the pump inlet and another on the highest tube in the system. Fluid would be added or removed from the bottom one and the top would allow air an easy way out when filling (or in when draining).

What does being done right entail?
 
To minimize the flow resistance, I try to use a size larger T and strech tubing over it, but that requires 1/8 wall tubing and heating it with hot water. The result is the ID of the tubing and the ID of the T is very close to the same size.

The other trick I've used is a copper fitting which have very thin walls and are smooth on the inside. A nominal 3/8 inch copper-T is a good fit for 1/2ID tubing; just a little snug but not hard to get tubing over. Hoseclamps are mandatory for smooth fittings like the copper Ts.

I can't imagine a need for more than 2 Ts except maybe with an external rad assembly seperated by several feet of tubing. Then a 3rd T might make sense.

Few people have more than 1; usually the people with multiple Ts change components alot and rapid fill/bleed/drain is important.
 
gungeek said:
To minimize the flow resistance, I try to use a size larger T and strech tubing over it, but that requires 1/8 wall tubing and heating it with hot water. The result is the ID of the tubing and the ID of the T is very close to the same size.


This is not entirely true. My Home Depot sells 5/8od 1/2id brass tee's that even the generic 3/4od 1/2id tubes could slip over without being heated. They have almost no flow restriction but worm-gear clamps are a must.
 
Not to rain on your parade, but if you had two t-lines at different heights in your system and one(the highest) wasn't absolutely sealed, your other t-line would overflow.

also IMHO, filling and bleeding isn't that hard with one t-line.
 
Guderian said:
Not to rain on your parade, but if you had two t-lines at different heights in your system and one(the highest) wasn't absolutely sealed, your other t-line would overflow.

also IMHO, filling and bleeding isn't that hard with one t-line.

2nd that, had the overflow problem as well..
if u want easier bleeding, go for the t-line hybrid :)
click on 'my wc case' in my sig to see what i'm talking aboot.
 
pwnt by pat said:


This is not entirely true. My Home Depot sells 5/8od 1/2id brass tee's that even the generic 3/4od 1/2id tubes could slip over without being heated. They have almost no flow restriction but worm-gear clamps are a must.

So, the only thing you disagree with is you may not have to heat the tubing to strech it over a 5/8OD barb. It's easier if the tubing is warmed with hot water first. I've done it both ways and I'll use hot water next time.

Yes, both Ts (especially the top T) need a good, airtight seal.
 
I use oversize Tee fittings and double T-Lines in my main system.

Filling and bleeding is a SNAP- 15 minutes from shut down to start up for a complete drain and fill of the system.

For the lower T-Line I use a 1/2" brass ball valve to ensure NO leakage. Costly, but effective. :)
 
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