- Joined
- Jan 27, 2004
I resevoirs really requires in a watercooling setup....cause i am having trouble finding a good one. i don't know if the res with the 1 inch hole would go with the mcp650 pump.
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res. ..required??
- Thread starter cheece2001
- Start date
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2004
- Location
- Tampa, FL
No, not at all. They do make it tons easier to fill and bleed though. They can also increase flow by reducing the restriction on the intake of the pump.
You can also use a T. Some people have even hooked everything together underwater and not used anything!
Anyways, there is some more good info in the stickies.
Good luck with your WCing project!
You can also use a T. Some people have even hooked everything together underwater and not used anything!
Anyways, there is some more good info in the stickies.
Good luck with your WCing project!
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2004
- Location
- Los Angeles
You could use a T-Line instead. It will be lighter, won't take up a lot of space, and will cost a lot less.
i did it with no tline or res and i would never do it agian, very messy and time consuming but if u must heres how i did it.
my pump cant go under water so i couldnt submerg everything so i took a gallon jug cut the top off and filled with water + coolant. then with everythig connected i made a separation between gpu block and hc. put gpu block in jug and with the open end filled with water so pump would run dry then i pointed that end into jug ran a while till bubbles all collected in the top of hc and moved it around. then the hardest put where u have to connect the open end to my gpu block under water in jug keeping everything submerged.
good luck whatever option u choose
my pump cant go under water so i couldnt submerg everything so i took a gallon jug cut the top off and filled with water + coolant. then with everythig connected i made a separation between gpu block and hc. put gpu block in jug and with the open end filled with water so pump would run dry then i pointed that end into jug ran a while till bubbles all collected in the top of hc and moved it around. then the hardest put where u have to connect the open end to my gpu block under water in jug keeping everything submerged.
good luck whatever option u choose
- Joined
- May 29, 2002
- Location
- Japan/Daytona Beach
personaly unless you really need one i recommend a t line
very few people benifit from a res other than initial fill and bleed.
very few people benifit from a res other than initial fill and bleed.
Fill & Bleed can be time consuming and frustrating (bubbles...), a res/airtrap will solve this. The new white-plastic 3-part bay res is just what we need for watercooling. Can be used as a junction box as well (2 inlets). And it's cheap, i'll definitely go for one.
Remember you'll have to fill & bleed about every 6 months to keep everything 100% clean.
Remember you'll have to fill & bleed about every 6 months to keep everything 100% clean.
- Joined
- May 29, 2002
- Location
- Japan/Daytona Beach
you dont have to change your water out every 6 months and the new bayres while much better in design than previous models also presents a bit of resistance
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2002
- Location
- St. Peters, Mo.
cheece2001,
This is what a t-line looks like (at least my t-line).
See the tube that points toward the top of the case and has a black screw cap on the end? That is the t-line. It gets its name from the T fitting that connects it into the rest of the tubing.
You assemble the system and then pour your coolant mix down the t-line. Do not turn the pump on until you get a good amount of water to the pumps inlet. Then just flip it on and right back off to kick the water farther into the loop. Depending on your setup you will need to tip the case in many directions to get the coolant where you want it to go. Eventually you will get it filled. Mine usually takes about 1 hour to get filled and bled.
This is why a res is better for filling and bleeding, the res will allow you to fill and bleed rapidly. I use the t-line because it saves a lot of space.
Good luck!!!
update: WOOHOO... got my 4th star on this post.
This is what a t-line looks like (at least my t-line).
See the tube that points toward the top of the case and has a black screw cap on the end? That is the t-line. It gets its name from the T fitting that connects it into the rest of the tubing.
You assemble the system and then pour your coolant mix down the t-line. Do not turn the pump on until you get a good amount of water to the pumps inlet. Then just flip it on and right back off to kick the water farther into the loop. Depending on your setup you will need to tip the case in many directions to get the coolant where you want it to go. Eventually you will get it filled. Mine usually takes about 1 hour to get filled and bled.
This is why a res is better for filling and bleeding, the res will allow you to fill and bleed rapidly. I use the t-line because it saves a lot of space.
Good luck!!!
update: WOOHOO... got my 4th star on this post.
- Joined
- May 29, 2002
- Location
- Japan/Daytona Beach
soshootme has a very good example of a well configured system.
notice the Tline is at the top of the loop . while this actualy makes it more difucult to fill , once the painfull process is finished it will help with bleeding and also notice his very short amount of tube length
another very good thing
also notice that the pump is at the lowest point and that the fluid has to travel upwards to get to the rad ( important for keeping air out of the pump as it helps bubbles go with the flow )
in fact the only thing i would have done and it may not be possible is to rotate his rad so its resting on its side with both barbs near the window side of the caseand make sure that the pump pumps to the bottom barb and the top barb leads to block.( you also want to slightly elevate the rad so that the tube travels nearly straight horizontal or slight incline to the rad intake)
overall a very good example of what a system should look like
notice the Tline is at the top of the loop . while this actualy makes it more difucult to fill , once the painfull process is finished it will help with bleeding and also notice his very short amount of tube length
another very good thing
also notice that the pump is at the lowest point and that the fluid has to travel upwards to get to the rad ( important for keeping air out of the pump as it helps bubbles go with the flow )
in fact the only thing i would have done and it may not be possible is to rotate his rad so its resting on its side with both barbs near the window side of the caseand make sure that the pump pumps to the bottom barb and the top barb leads to block.( you also want to slightly elevate the rad so that the tube travels nearly straight horizontal or slight incline to the rad intake)
overall a very good example of what a system should look like
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2002
- Location
- St. Peters, Mo.
Thanks Thorilan.
I did try laying the rad down on its side, but my case is a little too narrow. This is actually the 2nd config I tried. MameXP looked at my first set up and convinced me to reorient my pump to shorten the loop. I was able to cut over a foot of tubing out of the loop. Here is what it used to look like:
Compare this old picture to the current system photo above and you can see how much less tubing is in there now.
If anyone is interested, you can see the whole build page for my system here:
http://webpages.charter.net/jim-decker/WaterCooled.htm
I did try laying the rad down on its side, but my case is a little too narrow. This is actually the 2nd config I tried. MameXP looked at my first set up and convinced me to reorient my pump to shorten the loop. I was able to cut over a foot of tubing out of the loop. Here is what it used to look like:
Compare this old picture to the current system photo above and you can see how much less tubing is in there now.
If anyone is interested, you can see the whole build page for my system here:
http://webpages.charter.net/jim-decker/WaterCooled.htm
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2003
this reservoir will probably do.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2002
- Location
- St. Peters, Mo.
Lithker,
That cap is from a garden hose repair kit I got at a regular hardware store, sorry I can't remember which one. It came as a set, with the threaded male hose end and the cap. I just clamped the male end into my 1/2" ID tubing and capped it.
That cap is from a garden hose repair kit I got at a regular hardware store, sorry I can't remember which one. It came as a set, with the threaded male hose end and the cap. I just clamped the male end into my 1/2" ID tubing and capped it.
