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Quietest setup

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kiljaden5

Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2002
Location
New Jersey & NYC
I'm looking into water cooling as a possible solution to the noise maker i have here.

The best bet I think would be a quiet pump and quiet radiator fan(s) but what about the rest of the setup? I don't want to sacrifice too much performance for the lesser noise level.

I kinda want my rig to be nearly silentand I'm willing to do some modifications to achieve this.

give this warer cooling newb some help
 
what case do you have. this is the first step.
then whats your budget.
whats your definition of quiet . of performance . give specific examples.

help us help you . read the stickies to get a better idea
 
I have a Chieftech Dragon series case, the one that lots of people have, with no window so appearance of the interior is meaningless.

Budget I'm still not sure of, I guess thats what will determine if I end up buying this stuff or not.

By quiet I mean extremely quiet. Right now I have 6 80mm fans in my case, 2 of them are supposed to be "quiet" fans and they really are, I didn't hear much difference after I added them. the 2 rear exhaust fans came with the case, they're not too bad but loud enough to hear. PSU is a Sparkle 350W i believe, its the one that matched performance with some 400+W PSU's in a bunch of tests. I think that fan is loud too although its not too powerful.

My CPU fan is the worst, Thermaltake smart fan II. it has to be set close to its highest speed to be of any use, otherwise my cpu runs too hot. Oh yeah, the heatsink is a Thermalright SK6 all copper.

All that is just too noisy. I'll try to describe it.

Imagine trying to watch TV real quiet at night while someone is sleeping in the same room with the computer in the same room. The noise from my rig is loud enough that the TV has to be on loud enough to wake the person. I know its relative to how heavy the person sleeps but I can't think of any other way to describe it.
 
you want a basic setup then most likely and should not worry do much about performance as long as you use some common sense and pre planning. with your case you have a good start.

since oyu arnt aiming at ultra performance i would still get a good block and a good block and just have the fan 7 volt modded ( through simple wiring or through rheobus)

my sugestion for quiet and durability since oyu dont have a window is this

ehiem 1048
1/2 inch ( since it cant be seen and it will allow a little better performance to make up for the slower speed of the fan on the rad )
jr120 rad from dtek or dangerden cooltechnica etc etc .

block should be something fairly good. a rbx /tdx or something more simple and wait for a g4 from cathar ( maybe a cheep maze block to hold you over till a g4)

and a single pulling 120 fan at 7 volts. m1 or sanyo or many availible fans are suitable as long as you keep the case closed .
 
I think if performance is important as well as silence and cheapness isn't too big of a factor, I'd go with the Eheim 1250 over the 1048 as it's considerably more powerful. If you don't want something that powerful, still try to stick with Eheim because they are the quietest of all the pump brands (the old Swiftech MCP600 might be on par, the MCP650 is not).

A double heater core is generally the most popular way to go and also least expensive, HOWEVER, the esteemed Mr. Bill Adams has shown that for quiet systems, ie, low rpm/undervolted fans, thinner radiators are the way to go. Heatercores require higher pressure fans to get good performance because they are thicker and have a higher density fin arrangement and in general, high pressure means high rpm, and consequently, high noise levels. For a quiet setup, thin radiators are the way to go.

Case in point, the Swiftech 676. Oddly, Sidewinder has it for less than Swiftech's own store. But then again, the Hydrx water additive, Coolsleeves (prevents kinks) and the Bleed/Fill kit are less and you save on shiping if you get 'em from Swiftech's store. The 676 comes with mounting brackets and quick connect hose adapters so it's really not a bad deal at all.

As for the block, you have two options in my eyes. The Swiftech MCW6000 because it's only $40, (because the RBX and TDX are $52, use poly tops that may crack down the road and don't offer measurably better performance) or option two, the Dtek WhiteWater, which is basically the same as Cathar's original WhiteWater (I think there might be the very slightest difference in peformance), but measurably better than the MCW6000 (1-2C optimal).

As for fans, I can't recommend any other than Sanyo Denki's after using them myself. You hardly hear the motor at all, only airflow. Well, maybe some low frequency stuff, no high pitched sounds though. And they so solidly built too. Best fans I've ever owned. Undervolted they're near silent.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=3673&item=6708287662&rd=1

Don't worry about it ending soon. That seller always has at least 1 listing on ebay for those exact fans. As soon as the auction ends it's relisted. They're a wholesaler of sorts. Great prices too.

So to sum up, the best quiet but good performance setup I can think of would be the following:


Swiftech MCW6000 or Dtek WhiteWater (Danger Den's popularity is unwarranted)

Eheim 1250 (flow rate is THE most important thing if you don't have high rpm fans) or Eheim 1048 (the 1250 is only $10 more and significantly more powerful)

Swiftech 676 rad (cheap and your best bet for quiet fans) or 2x120 heatercore (actually a bit more expensive if you don't buy one from Autozone and make your own shroud)

120mm Sanyo Denki's (102cfm, 39dba, 9.6mmH20 - very quiet undervolted)


And you'll obviously want to stick with 1/2" ID for everything, and use nylon fittings. There's no reason for brass fittings. They'll only break your plastic stuff. And while Tygon is good tubing, it's overrated. Mine still kinks so you're best off saving money and getting Clearflex and using Coolsleeves on it to keep it from kinking. And that's it.

And of course use distilled water and either 15% antifreeze or some other additive like Hydrx (it's green, but it's the only one that doesn't stain your lines or leave deposits on your pump and waterblock). But you already know that.
 
Well look at my sig, i have achieved a very quiet and yet high performance setup.
Note that it required a lot of money (some parts like the PSU are very expensive) - keep in mind that usually, performance and silence are opposed, to have them all means laying down the cash.
What is not in my sig:
* HDDs are Seagate 15K3 Ultra320 - they are very silent from scratch, but they need active cooling. They are very well in a special enclosure from Silentmaxx that reduces their noise to near nothing and cool them down passively. The enclosures are suspended via silentblocks.
* my new setup has a dual heatercore (Caprice-like) but it's not operational yet. I'll try two combinations: 2x fans @ 5V, or 1 fan @ 7V.
* apart from the heatercore fan, there's ZERO fan. That's part of the quiet equation
* i've tried a lot of fans, PAPST and Panaflo are the best for quietness
* tubing is 1/2" for most parts, with a parallel 3/8" loop for the NB
* i've built that setup over years. Today you can get a better CPU waterblock.
 
Alacritan said:
And you'll obviously want to stick with 1/2" ID for everything

If he is going to stick with 1/2" and going to get the swiftech block, then he should get the MCW6002 instead. MCW6000 has 3/8" barbs if i'm not mistaken.
 
nartac said:
If he is going to stick with 1/2" and going to get the swiftech block, then he should get the MCW6002 instead. MCW6000 has 3/8" barbs if i'm not mistaken.

Sorry, that's what I always refer to it as. Regardless of whether it's Socket A, P4, A64, 1/2" ID or 3/8" ID. Didn't mean any confusion.
 
SureFoot said:
Well look at my sig, i have achieved a very quiet and yet high performance setup.
Note that it required a lot of money (some parts like the PSU are very expensive) - keep in mind that usually, performance and silence are opposed, to have them all means laying down the cash.
What is not in my sig:
* HDDs are Seagate 15K3 Ultra320 - they are very silent from scratch, but they need active cooling. They are very well in a special enclosure from Silentmaxx that reduces their noise to near nothing and cool them down passively. The enclosures are suspended via silentblocks.
* my new setup has a dual heatercore (Caprice-like) but it's not operational yet. I'll try two combinations: 2x fans @ 5V, or 1 fan @ 7V.
* apart from the heatercore fan, there's ZERO fan. That's part of the quiet equation
* i've tried a lot of fans, PAPST and Panaflo are the best for quietness
* tubing is 1/2" for most parts, with a parallel 3/8" loop for the NB
* i've built that setup over years. Today you can get a better CPU waterblock.


I think you've taken silence to the extreme. I'm not sure he's looking for a silent system, just a quiet one. And that doesn't have to be expensive. And a Laing D4 will always be louder than an Eheim pump, whether or not it's a muffled Swiftech/Danger Den version or not.
 
Wow thanks Alacritan for the tip on the Sanyo Denkis
bidding just finished I belive
what a good deal. I picked up 7 myself
 
My cooling setup is silent for all practical purposes (quiter than the drives) when I turn the fans down (I do this for anything but gaming, with fans its still very quiet)

Danger Den RBX
Via Aqua 1300 with impeller mod (it was $10 :) )
Danger den dual 120mm heatercore- I can run fanless if I dont overclock much with this one :D
This is a very high performance setup also. It gave me about 80mhz of stable overclock in the same system over an slk900 and a flat out fan (noisy)
 
for pump i would go mcp600(aka aquaextreme sold at D-tek) or a D4 (aka mcp650)... 7volt a sanyo denki fan, try to get ur hands on a chevette heatercore (get one here off the forums, they come and go here or go to ur junk yard!) and then just use tupperware as a shroud, get g4 block if u cant wait or the latest swiffy block (if $$ is a factor, if ur interested i might be selling Cathar's Little River White Water block, i personally never used it although it had been used b4 pm me if interested)... For a res u can got t-line or get one from DD, SVC, D-tek... Just matters what kind of res u want... All this should cost you well under the 200 mark....

If you integrate ur chevette into the front of ur case, that'll eliminate 2 fans, and then u can just move around the quiet fans to the back...

20 for chevette
2 for tubberware
10 for tubing and clamps (get clearfex tubing, same as tygon except cheaper)
45-90 for Cpu block
65-75 for pump
20-30 for res

Max Spending 227
Min Spending 162

You'll prolly ending up spending somewhere inbetween there...

oh yea and this setup will be quiet as whatever is quiet... ... ....
 
I see that sanyo denkis are rated form 102 cfm and 39dBa at 12V.

Would anyone who has it guess as to the rough estimate for the cfm and dBa at 7v? Thanks...
 
thanks for all the help, now I know a little more about this stuff

quick question though, since I'd be going 1/2" ID, what OD would that be? and how would I be able to use more waterblocks (VGA and NB) if most are for 3/8" ID?
 
mR|bUNgLe said:
Wow thanks Alacritan for the tip on the Sanyo Denkis
bidding just finished I belive
what a good deal. I picked up 7 myself

They're always on there. As soon as the listing ends it gets relisted. I was surprised at the price when I first saw them but they're so much better than Panaflo's.
 
I'd also like to reiterate that for a quiet, relatively low cfm setup, a heater core is NOT the way to go. The thickness of the heater core combined with the high fin density makes low rpm 120mm fans less effective. 120mm fans are already at a disadvantage for static pressure due to the fact that they rotate slower than 80mm or 92mm fans, despite moving the same amount of air or more. But the most important factor is static pressure when cooling with a heater core. For the most effective quiet setup, a thinner radiator must be used. So either get a Swiftech 676 or a transmission cooler if you want to use quiet fans. They're usually about 3/4" thick and less densely finned, and you'll get better airflow through them and better temps as a result.
 
Which rad is better the 676 or the BIX2? I plan on using the 2x120mm Sanyo's at 7v and if a rad would be better than a 2-302/2-342 with these fans.
 
Alacritan: the topic says "Quietest setup" and he said he wanted the most silent solution... IMHO computer quietness is a no-compromise challenge, as leaving only one aspect can ruin everything else.

PAPST are still the quiestest fans around, and with the most advanced designs.
Look here (the graphs are self-explanatory):
http://www.materiel.be/refroid/120mmfans_2/page22.php
In this test the GlobeFan 120mm shines (as quiet as PAPST fans and more powerful).
Panaflo and Vantec are good too (no surprise..)
Sanyo Denki are *very* noisy compared to those !

and a good (the best?) reference site about silent computing:
http://silentpcreview.com/

Especially read this:
http://silentpcreview.com/article25-page1.html
and this:
http://silentpcreview.com/files/fanspecs/fanspecs.pdf


Also i beg to differ about rads, as i've tried both kinds ("true" rad or oil cooler, and heater core). The heater core provides way more cooling power with not much more backpressure actually, my already low-spinning PAPST performs wonderfully at 5V or 7V.
 
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I have to interject at all these mentions of Papst and Panaflo. They are simply second best as far as noise to airflow ratios are concerned. SilenX fans are in a dBa range that neither can touch at the same CFM. They are a bit more expensive, but for us quiet freaks there isnt any monitary consideration in this respect. I wonder why they are so grossly underrepresented on ocforums, and I expect its simply that they go too far into the "crazy silent user" genre of cooling.

If you want to hear these fans, youll have to put your ear 3 inches from one, and then all youll hear is *whoosh*. Youll forget its on.

SilenX


:cool:
 
Manufacturer specs look impressive indeed. But i'd like to see an independant review, with a comparison done in an anechoic chamber, with the same DB-meter at the same distance.. because each mfger has its own "standards" when it comes to rating fan noise.
 
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