Okay So I just bought a new Abit Motherboard and an Amd Xp-M 2500+ and i got the swiftec water cooling block pump and rad was working well with my old setup now this is really odd, hooked the Xp-M up started it up stock or understock maybe not sure its at 1.8 ghz and with stock voltage 1.45w now for some reason temps are very very high like im getting a reading of 50C from Motherboard Moniter and from my own coolmaster fancontroller/temps thing its reading that the cpu is at a temp of 36/38 witch is still very high for stock and i have no clue what could be casing the system to have such high temps like even with air i could get lower temps, only think i could think of was that the block wasnt tight but it is, the screws cannot be losened anymore could anyone help me out with this problem ??
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very High Temps
- Thread starter Adam_2002
- Start date
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2004
- Location
- Vancouver Canada
What A-bit motherboard?
I have an NF7-S and if I cold boot it when ambient temps are above 74F my temps show up a good 10-12 degrees C hotter than they actually are. If I cold boot below 74F the temps are normal.
The thermal probe is probably correct though. My guess would be some sort of problem seating the waterblock. I would suggest you take it of, clean it, reapply thermal paste and stick it back on.
It could also be some sort of problem with your water flow. Possably air traped in the waterblock or something like that, or the pump not working correctly.
I have an NF7-S and if I cold boot it when ambient temps are above 74F my temps show up a good 10-12 degrees C hotter than they actually are. If I cold boot below 74F the temps are normal.
The thermal probe is probably correct though. My guess would be some sort of problem seating the waterblock. I would suggest you take it of, clean it, reapply thermal paste and stick it back on.
It could also be some sort of problem with your water flow. Possably air traped in the waterblock or something like that, or the pump not working correctly.
- Joined
- Jun 10, 2004
- Location
- Ft Worth - Texas
Can I assume the wb is a 5000/5002 model block?
Was it used?
Was it used?
- Thread Starter
- #5
i also tryed cleaning the block and added new temeral paste to it but the temps are still pretty high i got it to runn at 166x12.5 speed of a 2800+ cuz the temps are a little lower now its about 42 with a vcore of 1.65 but still thats very high i have no clue on what to do
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2004
- Location
- Vancouver Canada
could be that the air in your case is really hot and not letting the radiator work well. Try running the system with the side pannel of and a desk fan blowing into the case to ensure the radiator is getting fresh air. Also, could we get a shot of the back of the computer, i.e. where the air is coming out of the radiator. If you have a crappy fan gaurd there or something it could be killing your airflow through the radiator.
Is there any way you could measure your water temperature at load? If you could do this it would tell us if your problem is with your waterblock and pump, or with your radiator. One way to do it is to load your system for a while, and then quickly shut it off everything and stick a thermometer into your resevoir or something. Putting a thermometer against the side of your tubing and insulating all around it and letting it sit there for a while ehile you load the comp should also work.
Is there any way you could measure your water temperature at load? If you could do this it would tell us if your problem is with your waterblock and pump, or with your radiator. One way to do it is to load your system for a while, and then quickly shut it off everything and stick a thermometer into your resevoir or something. Putting a thermometer against the side of your tubing and insulating all around it and letting it sit there for a while ehile you load the comp should also work.
- Joined
- Jun 10, 2004
- Location
- Ft Worth - Texas
If i'm not mistaken, it looks like you have the inlet and outlet on the block mixed up....
pump, rad, outlet of block......
center barb is inlet.
switch those tubes.
EDIT: Related reading, to prevent a reflex reply on the part of the thread starter.
pump, rad, outlet of block......
center barb is inlet.
switch those tubes.
EDIT: Related reading, to prevent a reflex reply on the part of the thread starter.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2001
- Location
- Random Dumpster/Alley
Try reseating it, check the flow (especially through the rad), check the bios readings thoroughly, and then see what happens when you start to overclock a bit. If you have any Socket-A HSF I'd suggest you try it and check the temps. If they are way higher, it might be that the motherboard somehow OC'd it. Or...it could just be a faulty thermal probe. Try the old finger test on the wb to determine if it is really hot as well.
- Joined
- Sep 7, 2004
Adam_2002 said:
i would change inlet outlet thingie, you could have air trapped inside the water block, also i think the design of the block inside, is made for water coming from the center and going out trhu the other outlet.
also you are using another mobo, abit reads higher? at least my max 3 use to read really high.
i would go for a bigger rad, maybe a heatercore? you could get a much better o/c for almost no money.
the set up looks good.
- Thread Starter
- #13
okay what are some good heatcores im gunna go to the junkyards to see what i can find anyone got any that are good as well what size tubing should i use, stick with 1/2" go with 5/8" or something larger then 5/8" ? give me some input ive already added a blow hole to the top of the case and gunna get a fan up there as well but for the water what are some good heatercores?
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2001
- Location
- Los Angeles
OK first, the NF7's temp readings are insocket, sometimes they will read HIGHER with water than with aircooling because there is no air around the socket. Next, you MUST get the inlet and outlet switched, your shooting yourself in the foot. Lastly, every cpu runs different re temps. I would get to concerned with what the temp reading reports, use it as a guide to make sure nothing is terribly wrong, and it seems it is not.
- Joined
- May 22, 2004
- Location
- Gainesville, FL / Frankfurt Germany
I know that there were several prints of the swifty-kit manuals with an error in the assembly diagram (the inlet and outlet of the block were switched)
Im going to assume, that you have one of those manuals, and followed it excatly.
nikshub is right, get that block properly plumbed asap.
As far as I know the problem with the manuals is now corrected in all swifty kits.
SenC.
Im going to assume, that you have one of those manuals, and followed it excatly.
nikshub is right, get that block properly plumbed asap.
As far as I know the problem with the manuals is now corrected in all swifty kits.
SenC.
