finally making the change to water cooling...any problems in my setup?

Achilles17 · Sep 27, 2004

well im about to order my water cooling parts, just wondering if theres anything you guys think I should change. So far all ive ordered is the cpu block and the fans but ill order the rest later today. anyway, heres what im gonna get:

Storm G4
DD D4 12v
'77 Bonneville HC w/AC (2-302)
2x120mm Sanyo Denki
Silverprop Fusion HL + GF4/FX/6800 adapter kit.
Tygon R-3602 1/2 ID tubing
Swiftech MCW20-P
T-Line w/ Danger Den fill cap
Metal Hose Clamps from hardware store

I dont think im missing anything there, but I have 2 quick questions. 1) If I were to use the MCW20-P, because it has aluminum in it, would I need an anti corrosion addative, as nothing else in my system has any aluminum in it at all. 2) Would it be worth it to just take it out so i dont have to deal with an anti corrosion addative, or should i just leave it in and put some kind of addative that has anti growth and anti corrosion (any suggestions on what would be best? water wetter seems to be what most people use, anything else?) Thanx a lot guys, sorry for the long post but thanx for reading!

nissmo300 · Sep 27, 2004

Swiftech MCW20-P

Change this... does not match with anything... get the Maze from DD, the Silverprop chipset cooler, or the polar flow one.

Achilles17 · Sep 27, 2004

are any of them all copper, or do they all have some alum in there

crimedog · Sep 27, 2004

isn't the storm's top aluminum?

you always want corrosion/growth prevention

the silverprop gpu block has a brass top i believe

Achilles17 · Sep 27, 2004

im pretty sure its copper, but i could be wrong, we'll see in a few days. Any particular addative that you guys recommend?

jackrungh · Sep 27, 2004

If I were you I'd leave the chipset out of the loop and NB1-C it. It really is just better left out. The NB1-C can cool it just as effectively as any NB block. However if you must, I would go with the Silverprop Nexus LX as it contains no Al and while delivering good performance is low restriction, as well as pretty small as far as NB blocks go. The main advantage is simply the corrosion factor. Itll run well in a loop with a D4, though you may want to run parallel for the GPU/NB to reduce the restriction.

Achilles17 · Sep 27, 2004

I got a microcool northpole on there now, and it keeps it cool enough, but the fan is kinda whiny. My case is rediculously loud now, so its hard to tell what it would sound like alone, but im kinda worried that once i get wc in there it will be very noticable. would this be true, or would it be fairly quiet

Achilles17 · Sep 28, 2004

bump, anyone? last bump until I order

wfarid · Sep 28, 2004

g4s arent alum topped... they use another material, something that starts with a d, forgot the name... People use antifreeze to stop anti-growth and anti corrosion...

shraad · Sep 28, 2004

wfarid said:
g4s arent alum topped... they use another material, something that starts with a d, forgot the name... People use antifreeze to stop anti-growth and anti corrosion...

Delrin IIRC

Guderian · Sep 28, 2004

crimedog said:
isn't the storm's top aluminum?

Holy Sheep Shaggers Batman.....heheh

Shraad has it right.

crimedog said:
you always want corrosion/growth prevention

the silverprop gpu block has a brass top i believe

almost always, and yes.

EDIT:

The Silverprop Nexus (NB block) does NOT state what kind of metal the top is made of, but states this:

Type II, Class 2 Anodization for corrosion resistance

and this:

SILVERPROP STRONGLY RECOMMENDS USING AUTOMOTIVE COOLANT TO INHIBIT THE DEVELOPMENT OF GALVANIC CORROSION IN THE SYTEM.

Take what you want from that.

The GPU block does state that the top is Brass. Low profile High profile

Achilles17 · Sep 28, 2004

argh ok, so it looks like i cant use just distelled water and something to kill bacteria/algae. Any coolants you guys recommend, something simple that I would combine everything in one (i.e., a bacteriacide, anti-corrosive, and anything else I might need).

CGR · Sep 28, 2004

First dont get Tygon go with Clearflex 60, its a bit better and cheaper than the Tygon. Also I like using either Purple Ice or HydrX additive in my system.

Achilles17 · Sep 28, 2004

ive heard tygon kinks less and is clearer, and more chemical resistant. How is the clearflex better? Its only like a $10 difference between the two, and when your spending as much as I am that hardly seems significant. And do both purple ice and HydrX serve as an all in one addative?

CGR · Sep 28, 2004

I have heard the opposite actually. That Clearflex kinks less, is clearer and has a thicker sidewall then Tygon.

mR|bUNgLe · Sep 28, 2004

you heard wrong then

CGR · Sep 28, 2004

Well all my research said Clearflex60 had a thicker wall and kinked less then Tygon. Thats why I chose Clearflex60 over Tygon. If you can link something that says Tygon is superior please do I would like to read it..

CGR · Sep 28, 2004

Here are the reviews I based most of my descision on with some added comments from the Forums. Regarding Tubing.

http://www.wc101.com/reviews/clearflex/

http://www.wc101.com/reviews/tygon/

jackrungh · Sep 28, 2004

Tygon and clearflex60 are generally neck and neck for performance, however tygon is more transparent, while clearflex has a certain whitish color especially when contrasted against the dye additions of blue or green seen in so many WC rigs. The tygon has a slightly more tolerable bend resistance, but not enough to write home about over the clearflex60. I got tygon truthfully because I really wanted it to be crystal clear, and as for the "voodoo" of watercooling, I really enjoy owning an using products that are incredibly overengineered.

Anyway, unless you are vain as I am, I would get the clearflex60, but I had the little bit of money extra in my cooling budget and decided to go for the tygon, it up to you.

EDIT: IF you look in this contrast picture you can see what I mean about coloration, with clearflex60 on the left and tygon on the right.

.Maximus · Sep 28, 2004

I have heard the opposite actually. That Clearflex kinks less, is clearer and has a thicker sidewall then Tygon

I ordered both types of tubing. I can say without a doubt that Tygon will not kink, and Clearflex will. I was going to use Clearflex and to my dismay, started to kink on a not so tight radius. Tygon handled the radius just fine. You can also get different wall sizes for tygon tubing from 1/16" wall, all the way to 1/8". I got the 1/8 wall, and would be damn hard to kink. I suppose you could get the same wall sizes for clearflex as well

finally making the change to water cooling...any problems in my setup?

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