Should the MazeII be warm?

[dwango]

Should my Maze II be warm to the touch? Its pretty cool, and my processor is idling at 39c and at full load its about 44c. At least that's what EPoX's probe says. I took the block off of the cpu and there was an AS mark on it, so I assume its making contact.

WC specs:

Danner mag7
DD Cube
DD maze2

[Billvill]

I think your temps are normal.

Billy

[dwango]

Thanks for the reply.
I don't think the temps are bad. And the difference between idle and full load is pleasing.

[William]

idle temps seem high, but overall looks pretty good.

[Crazy Jayhawk]

A warm block indicates that it has good contact with the CPU, i.e. nothing to worry about. :)

[The Overclocker]

if it is warm, you could put a small heatsink on top of it, incase the pump fails

[dwango]

No no.. I guess I wasn't clear. My block is fairly cool to the touch.
It can't be pushed down anymore, so I figured its making good contact with the core...

[dimmreaper]

Everything looks fine to me . . . .

[RJ]

I just took my maze 2 off I was running the same temps 38/44.I put the MC462 back on and the temps are 32/40 ??

[ve6jhc]

I have given up on using the temp. probes on the MB.....What are they really measuring and how accurate are they? I found on my Asus A7V the CPU temp sensor is mounted to the MB underneath the CPU. I can cool the top of the CPU very well but the backside heats up the air and gives me a false reading. I noticed when I went from air to water cooling that my CPU temp (as measured by the MB probe) would start off at 32C and slowly climb up to 43 on idle/websurfing. With air cooling my system would jump right up to 45C very fast. I ended up getting a DigiDoc 5 and I now monitor the temp of both the top and bottom of the CPU. Big difference in the numbers. I think that it is like a Peltier cell....Hot on one side and cold on the other....it just depends on where you take the temp from.

[Ingo]

Remember, these motherboards are designed for the average Joe (even if he/she is an overclocker. 99% of users will use some kind of air-cooled heatsink on their CPU. Since the CPU's don't have on-die thermal probes, the motherboard manufacturer has to come up with an effective (though by no means totally accurate) way to measure temps. So they test using convential air-cooled heatsinks and aside from the few who have the CPU thermistor touching the back of the CPU (ABIT comes to mind), must adjust their probe monitoring algorithm to compensate for this deficiency. That is why most WC setups will read higher temps than they should compared with Air-cooled heatsinks. A good test of this (if you're 'puter's water cooled), is to mount an 80mm fan on the side of your case blowing onto the board on the northbridge/CPU area (doesn't have to be full voltage, either). You will likely find your temps drop accordingly. Like ve6jhc said, a Digital Doc 5 or Compunurse will give you far more accurate temps.

[Colin]

Sorry but I dissagree with most of the folks here. If you block is warm, your pump or radiator/airflow are weak. With 128 watts of CPU heat and two 128 watt pelts, my Maze 2.2 runs cool.

[ve6jhc]

I agree with Colin...My home made cooler is room temp when running. I compared this with several HSF combos I have tried...some of the cheaper ones are so hot they burn your fingers. With my current setup it doesn't matter if the case side is on or off the temp holds firm.