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View Full Version : coolin will never be a problem pt 2


AlanSr
09-04-01, 08:44 AM
Now I have 2 of these bad boyz hooked up
555 total cfm, 260 blowin in 295 blowin out. Well I didn't count the 3 11cfm bay freezer fans:)
win 9x boot up temp 30C
idle 25C
load 38C "not real sure on this one cuz I haven't really had the time to sit down and game for any period of time.

The Comair in the front blows so much air I can feel cold air on my feet 10 feet away!!!

it is loud though, it gave me a headach the first night but now I'm used to it and I love it!!!!

Crazy Jayhawk
09-04-01, 09:07 AM
(same question I asked in alt-mod :p)

Where do you buy these fans?

The front fan looks like it belongs there, really. Just needs a finger guard of some kind.

millertime
09-04-01, 12:42 PM
bg micro there like 8.50 reel cheap.put those suckas at 7volts and they hardly make any noise.

Paul -The Mad Hatter
09-04-01, 02:03 PM
that is awsome, forget the 120mm fans! i got to get me some of these

The Coolest
09-04-01, 02:19 PM
I like those fans... A LOT!!! kewl...
Where can you buy those? and what is their diamiter ?

AlanSr
09-04-01, 02:35 PM
6.75in X 5.7in X 2in

I may be off a lil on the 5.7 but its 5. something

AlanSr
09-04-01, 04:43 PM
@
BGMICRO.COM

Warlord2
09-04-01, 05:53 PM
put your tow to close to that fan and it might vaporize

I would realy be looking for some guards:D

Patchmaster
09-04-01, 07:57 PM
Let's see... The case is roughly 2 cubic feet. You're pushing through almost 300 cubic feet per minute. If my calculations are correct, you're completely turning over the air inside the case every 0.4 seconds. If you add any more fans you're going to have to bolt the case to the floor!

Nealer
09-04-01, 08:38 PM
Holy crap, can a normal 300w power supply handle one of those fans :-)

Also how many dB are the fans, i couldnt see on the site. with a 7v mod is it still pretty noisy?

AMDGuy
09-05-01, 09:06 AM
Whoa those fans are huge!

Intraveinous
09-05-01, 10:58 AM
I think that when they're running at 12V they're around 53 dB if I remember right. @ 7V, they're MUCH quieter, but still move a TON of air. @ 12V they draw 2.26 Amps, so if you've got a lot of other 12V devices on the PSU already, I'd watch it b4 leaving it hooked up. In my case, with a 330W Enermax PSU, the 12V Rail drops from 12.66 to 12.60 when the Comair Rotron is hooked up. I haven't found a source for fan Grills yet, but I've got an email in to Comair. They originally came with grills, but BGMICRO is selling them in a bulk type of a situation, so no grills.
I'll let you all know if I get a reply for a source of the grills.
John

AlanSr
09-05-01, 11:05 AM
how do you lower the voltage?

I have mine running full power and haven't seen any problems with my 300watt.

I want to upgrade it soon, but money is the big kicker:)

Intraveinous
09-05-01, 12:25 PM
Well, as far as lowering the voltage, I wouldn't do it with a Rheostat without looking long and hard. These suckers pull 2.26Amps at 12V (27.12 Watts), which puts them quite a bit over the wattage maximums of most of the cheaper rheostats I've seen at RadioHack etc. The way I've done it is with the 7volt mod. I have a 3 position switch (less than 4 bucks from RadioHack) set up as is shown here: http://www.fanbus.com/faq/fanfaq.htm
(do a search for THE "7 VOLT TRICK") Basically, you hook +12V (Yellow wire on the PSU Molex) to the Positive terminal (Red wire on the fan), and +5V (Red wire on the PSU Molex) to the negative terminal (Black wire on the fan). By using +5V as the ground, the +5 cancels out 5 volts of the 12 on the positive side, hence giving you +7V. You can also wire a 3 position switch (what I did) so that you can switch between 12V, 7V and Off. I'll leave fanbus.com to do the explaining for that one, as it's harder to do without diagrams (which that site has).
Just in general, Fanbus.com has been VERY useful to me in my quest to have both good cooling and low enough noise to be able to sleep with my computer on.
Hope this helps, sorry for the long winded post.
John

Nate-X
09-05-01, 12:42 PM
That's just f'in insane lol :)

OddOne
09-05-01, 12:46 PM
Allied Electronics (http://www.alliedelec.com/) sells fan grills for 180mm (6") fans, as well as the fans themselves and pretty much any electronic part you'll EVER need/want. Check them out for the grills. You might wanna get a larger order together than just a grill though, maybe parts for a fanbus or whatever.

oO

The Overclocker
09-05-01, 01:32 PM
Originally posted by AlanSr
Now I have 2 of these bad boyz hooked up
555 total cfm, 260 blowin in 295 blowin out. Well I didn't count the 3 11cfm bay freezer fans:)
win 9x boot up temp 30C
idle 25C
load 38C "not real sure on this one cuz I haven't really had the time to sit down and game for any period of time.

The Comair in the front blows so much air I can feel cold air on my feet 10 feet away!!!

it is loud though, it gave me a headach the first night but now I'm used to it and I love it!!!!
good job you keep your toes cold, when your toes get cut off freezing then is the best way to preserve then till you get to the hospital

Patchmaster
09-05-01, 08:33 PM
Has anyone tried just sticking a resistor in the line to quiet down a fan? The only rheostats I've been able to find that will handle the kind of load presented by the Major DC cost in the $30-$40 range. Allied Electronics has 50W resistors for a couple bucks each. Obviously it's less convenient because you can't just dial up the noise/cooling level you want, but it's sure a lot cheaper.

I was thinking of getting a few of these resistors in various values and wiring them up to a rotary selector switch. That should let me dial up different resistances and hopefully tame the fan noise that way.

dimmreaper
09-05-01, 09:40 PM
Not trying to be offensive, buy your nuts!

Makes me glad I took up watercooling a long time ago . . . .

bodezafa
09-05-01, 09:43 PM
Anti M, Anti M, its a twister!, Its a twister!
LOL:D

AlanSr
09-07-01, 08:44 AM
They may be loud but I think my temps can compete with any water cooling temps:)

I'm still looking into water cooling just because you can put a lil die in it and make it look awesome:)

my next upgrade will be some new pc 150 ram and some neon lights

Hoot
09-07-01, 08:58 AM
Originally posted by Patchmaster
Has anyone tried just sticking a resistor in the line to quiet down a fan? The only rheostats I've been able to find that will handle the kind of load presented by the Major DC cost in the $30-$40 range. Allied Electronics has 50W resistors for a couple bucks each. Obviously it's less convenient because you can't just dial up the noise/cooling level you want, but it's sure a lot cheaper.

I was thinking of getting a few of these resistors in various values and wiring them up to a rotary selector switch. That should let me dial up different resistances and hopefully tame the fan noise that way.

You certainly can use a fixed value power resistor, but you lose the variability. For most muddling around, you can run the fan fairly slow and quiet, but you will not be able to vary the speed to fit your cooling demands. Also, that resistor is going to get hot. If it's inside your case, you can add that heat to the existing heat you need to get rid of. If you do go with one, I recommend mounting it somewhere near an exhausting fan so that the heat it generates does not disperse throughout the case. Some people use a fixed resistor along with a toggle switch to short it out, for those times when you need the extra uumph.

Hoot

Naeleros
09-07-01, 02:28 PM
Originally posted by AlanSr
They may be loud but I think my temps can compete with any water cooling temps:)

I'm still looking into water cooling just because you can put a lil die in it and make it look awesome:)

my next upgrade will be some new pc 150 ram and some neon lights

What are you using to check your temps? Mobo sensor or ...??

James

Patchmaster
09-07-01, 02:59 PM
You certainly can use a fixed value power resistor, but you lose the variability. Thanks for the reply. Turns out BG Micro has a rheostat that looks like it should do the job. 150 watt, 7.8 Ohm. Only potential problem is the 4" diameter. I think I can find room for it though.

I'm an almost complete ignoramous when it comes to electronics and I've never messed with rheostats before. I gather from what I've read that a rheostat provides a variable resistance. Is it correct that the 150 watt specification on that 'stat is the upper limit it can handle and that it will work okay with the 25W load presented by the Comair/Rotron fan? Also, is the 7.8 Ohm spec the maximum resistance provided by the 'stat? IOW, does the resistance vary from 0 to 7.8 Ohm, or is the 7.8 the floor, meaning the resistance goes from 7.8 Ohm to infinity? My calculations indicate I need something in the range of maybe 0.5 Ohm to an upper end of about 2.0 Ohm.

Naeleros
09-08-01, 12:19 AM
I'd still like to know what you are using for a sensor for your temps..

James

Fahrell
05-10-02, 08:37 PM
Originally posted by AlanSr
They may be loud but I think my temps can compete with any water cooling temps:)


No air cooled system, in the same room temp, can compete with any average water cooling system... it's a matter of physics...

w/ that much CFM blowing in your case you're tricking the thermistor... it is not telling you the thruth...

assuming you're using the on board thermistor... :)

darkn3ss
05-11-02, 09:03 AM
I'd like to ask how to enable the RPM reading if using the 7volt mod of the delta 60mm 7k?

Tecumseh
05-11-02, 11:10 AM
Ok, you guys that have monster fans or want to go in that
direction....a rheostat is no longer the best option. Look
up the thread on PWM -- Pulse width modulation.
This technique has a few more parts, but the cool part,
literally, is that when you are at 50% you are using close
to 50% power so there is no resistor heating up in your case.
Check out Pulse Width Modulation -- PWM.

Spec_Ops2087
05-11-02, 11:19 AM
Lets all go over to AlanSr house...we can get a ride to europe!!!:p



Spec

Strangelove
05-11-02, 11:20 AM
Originally posted by Tecumseh
Ok, you guys that have monster fans or want to go in that
direction....a rheostat is no longer the best option. Look
up the thread on PWM -- Pulse width modulation.
This technique has a few more parts, but the cool part,
literally, is that when you are at 50% you are using close
to 50% power so there is no resistor heating up in your case.
Check out Pulse Width Modulation -- PWM.

Defiantly a VERY good suggestion, PWM is the best solution any day with any fan!! Also the 7V trick has been discussed to some length whether or not it's harmful for the PSU, never really think people agreed on that subject. But with two fans drawing that much power I would think twice about setting it up in a way that may be harmful for my PSU.

Fahrell
05-11-02, 12:06 PM
Originally posted by darkn3ss
I'd like to ask how to enable the RPM reading if using the 7volt mod of the delta 60mm 7k?

you have to keep the wire of the sensor connected at the socket on the motherboard...

remove only the 12v lines to do the 7v mod...

darkn3ss
05-12-02, 07:13 AM
I tried it but still cannot work. BTW I'm using TUSL2-C and I'm using the "CHA_FAN" connector.

Fahrell
05-12-02, 09:54 AM
Originally posted by darkn3ss
I tried it but still cannot work. BTW I'm using TUSL2-C and I'm using the "CHA_FAN" connector.

I don't know with the tusl2 but some connectors doesn't have the sensor active... try another connector...

and assure you're attaching the wire at the right pin of the connector also...

see ya

skinart
05-12-02, 02:40 PM
awesome setup you have there bro , though you may want to get some warning stickers incase you ever have kids in your room they mat get stuck to the front of your rig till you pry them off :)