I've been looking for a larger barb inlet for my 1250(1/2" BSP) to maximize flow from my 2-342(3/4"). But i'm wondering, if the BSP is 1/2", is the largest effective inlet 1/2" ID? Cuz if i got a 3/4" OD(5/8" ID), wouldn't it just taper down to 1/2" ID since the BSP is 1/2"? Also, anyone know where to get plastic or nylon BSP fittings?
-
Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!
Largest Eheim 1250 Inlet
- Thread starter phatty2x4
- Start date
- Joined
- May 2, 2004
- Location
- Greenville, NC
1/2" is not the 1/2" you are thinking of. BSP is like NPT, a 1/4" female NPT pipe thread has almost the same ID as 1/2" OD barbs. A 1/2" female NPT is better suited for a much larger barb, and I think you can find one that is 3/4".
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2000
- Location
- Sheboygan, Wisconsin
Best bet take the pump to Home Depot and start screwing in barbs til you find the right one.
- Thread Starter
- #5
Was suspected, but the inlet is almost 1", then i get curious...... Is there a formula for npt/bsp = actual ID? Because i could get another front pump piece and mod it by dremel'n out the threads and make them smooth for flow and use 3/4 or 7/8" ID tubing to my HC(2-342), where i would install a brass barb, but there's i little more than 3/4" of safe drilling area.PROkillernoodle said:
Usplastics has everything including the tubing.
- Joined
- Jun 10, 2004
- Location
- Ft Worth - Texas
I was fiddling around with some pvc parts trying to find what the thread size is on the outside of the barb... so I could create a inlet res.
I came to the conclusion that it was approx 7/8" (thread type is a mystery to me though) which is not something you can find at most hardware stores.
I came to the conclusion that it was approx 7/8" (thread type is a mystery to me though) which is not something you can find at most hardware stores.
greenman100
Disabled
- Joined
- May 18, 2003
why not fabricate an inlet resivoir?
- Thread Starter
- #8
Well, today i went to the hardware store and got some 3/4" ID tubing, 1" Tee, and a 3/4" barb with a cap for a fill-port(big plastic bling-bling 
). So, i'm going to boil the hose to fit over the 1", remove the stock pump inlet barb and dremel the inlet smooth(where the threads are). I also got a 5/8" barb for the outlet, so it's about 1/2" id now. Hopefully soon i can get crackin on the project and get it DONE! 
). So, i'm going to boil the hose to fit over the 1", remove the stock pump inlet barb and dremel the inlet smooth(where the threads are). I also got a 5/8" barb for the outlet, so it's about 1/2" id now. Hopefully soon i can get crackin on the project and get it DONE!
greenman100
Disabled
- Joined
- May 18, 2003
phatty2x4 said:
sounds like you figured it out, be sure to post pics
- Thread Starter
- #11
Here ya go:
Well, kinda.... I'm thinking about putting a T between the WB and the RAD instead, cuz it's more out of the way and it would be easier to bleed air out(higher in loop). And that 3/4 T all the way to the top of the case w/fill port is HUGE. Tell me what ya think.greenman100 said:
- Joined
- Jun 10, 2004
- Location
- Ft Worth - Texas
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2002
- Location
- Rio de Janeiro - Brazil
I did find here a nice 3/4 ID barb (1/2 thread). Fitted nicely both Eheim and mags pump :
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jun 10, 2004
- Location
- Ft Worth - Texas
I have that barb, but replaced it with the default barb for fear of overtightening+cracking the pump/thread housing.
