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Hydrx?

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I would consider instead of adjusting the amount of HydrX to your loop size simply premix a gallon of distilled water + HydrX to the correct ratio as stated in the instructions. Then simply use your pre-mix to fill the system. You can shelve the balance of the mix for later.
 
ahhhh sorry guys, posted wrong link here's the right one, unfortunately I couldn't find how much water this can handle: http://www.frozencpu.com/cgi-bin/frozencpu/ex-res-10.html

and also may be I will buy the hydrX at sidewinder, just wondering how much I need...

Components:
Maze 4 GPU cooler
Maze 4 Chipset cooler
DD TDX
Dual 5.25 res
3 120 mm Black Ice Xtremes
Swiftech MCP650

on a sidenote do you think my pump is powerful enough for these 3 rads?

thnx
 
mat1314 said:
ahhhh sorry guys, posted wrong link here's the right one, unfortunately I couldn't find how much water this can handle: http://www.frozencpu.com/cgi-bin/frozencpu/ex-res-10.html

and also may be I will buy the hydrX at sidewinder, just wondering how much I need...

Components:
Maze 4 GPU cooler
Maze 4 Chipset cooler
DD TDX
Dual 5.25 res
3 120 mm Black Ice Xtremes
Swiftech MCP650

on a sidenote do you think my pump is powerful enough for these 3 rads?

thnx

get the res from dangerden. its cheaper there too. https://www.dangerden.com/mall/Misc_Hardware/ddbay.asp#Danger_Den_Dual_(5_1/4)_Bay_Reservoir
 
also why worry about how much water it holds? just get a whole gallon of distilled water, pour like 5 papers cups worth out and dump the hydrx in there.
 
The ratio on the 2 oz bottle of HydrX says it should be the whole bottle (2 oz) to 1 liter (33.8 oz) or a 1 to 16 ratio of HydrX to coolant. I would start with that as a baseline and then consider dilution depending if your system does indeed have aluminum or multiple metals in it.

First however you should run the system with pure distilled water for up to a week before adding the additive. Without knowing what your baseline temperatures are you will be unable to judge the effects of the additives. Pure water will give you your best cooling performance. The additives are to stop growth and corrosion but including them does indeed lower your overall cooling performance. Most sites/people suggest using additives to avoid problems down the road with your cooling setup but the ratios of water to additive seems to be fairly in question. I would start with pure water for a week, get your baseline temps and then use the manufacturers suggested 1 to 16 ratio and check again. From there you will at least know what effects the HydrX is having on your cooling performance.
 
great, so ill just go down and grab 4 bottles of that stuff from sidewinder.com but first run my setup on just distilled water for a week
 
One sort of odd thing, and this may just have been something I did incorrectly....

HydrX 'fogged' or clouded my tubing. I tried with both Clearflex60 and with Tygon. The buildup wasnt tremendous but it did detract from the 'clean' appearance of my WCing setup. I eventually went with a 10% Prestone Low-Tox/90% Distilled water + 2 teaspoons of Iodine as someone suggested in one of the threads. Zero fogging since the changeover.

Nice side note- If that happens to you and you want to clean the tubing using a shotgun cleaning rod actually works quite well to scrub it off ;)
 
Bugsmasher said:
First however you should run the system with pure distilled water for up to a week before adding the additive. Without knowing what your baseline temperatures are you will be unable to judge the effects of the additives. Pure water will give you your best cooling performance. The additives are to stop growth and corrosion but including them does indeed lower your overall cooling performance. Most sites/people suggest using additives to avoid problems down the road with your cooling setup but the ratios of water to additive seems to be fairly in question. I would start with pure water for a week, get your baseline temps and then use the manufacturers suggested 1 to 16 ratio and check again. From there you will at least know what effects the HydrX is having on your cooling performance.

no

The Maze4gpu block is alu-topped.
I KNOW it is anodized.
better safe than sorry.
He DOES NOT have equippment to even measure the difference in temperature that adding a coolant will have on his temps.

Im under the impression that the BIX is Alu. Is it?
If yes, then dont run without the additive in your water for even a day.

FOUR bottles for every Gallon especially with Alu parts in the loop.

HydrX 'fogged' or clouded my tubing

HydriX is a particle based additve AFAIK. So there is nothing you can do about the clouding.
 
Bugsmasher said:
One sort of odd thing, and this may just have been something I did incorrectly....

HydrX 'fogged' or clouded my tubing. I tried with both Clearflex60 and with Tygon. The buildup wasnt tremendous but it did detract from the 'clean' appearance of my WCing setup. I eventually went with a 10% Prestone Low-Tox/90% Distilled water + 2 teaspoons of Iodine as someone suggested in one of the threads. Zero fogging since the changeover.

Nice side note- If that happens to you and you want to clean the tubing using a shotgun cleaning rod actually works quite well to scrub it off ;)

yea i noticed that too. Thats why I switched to Audi blue antifreeze. ALso do not run plain water for a whole week in ur system cause of the corrosive effect of different metals.
 
Senater_Cache said:
no

The Maze4gpu block is alu-topped.
I KNOW it is anodized.
better safe than sorry.
He DOES NOT have equippment to even measure the difference in temperature that adding a coolant will have on his temps.

Im under the impression that the BIX is Alu. Is it?
If yes, then dont run without the additive in your water for even a day.

FOUR bottles for every Gallon especially with Alu parts in the loop.



HydriX is a particle based additve AFAIK. So there is nothing you can do about the clouding.

BIX is copper...so they say:)
 
Ahhh...didnt realize the gpu block was aluminum backed. I had assumed it was copper or acrylic.

Yep, in that case galvanic corrosion would come into effect and it would be accelerated over standard corrosion. It wouldnt be instant but as stated- better safe than sorry.

The BIX is indeed supposed to be copper construction so that shouldnt create a problem.

The 1 week period was suggested by the guys at Voyeurmod.com but that was for my system which has no aluminum.
 
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