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My first attempt at WB design! Critique it for me!

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JDXNC

Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2002
I have been training myself in Solidworks for the past month or so and have finally designed my first block in it, I think I did a very good job for self training in this program. I didn't take into account an O-ring to seal it up as I'm not sure what size I could get, but it will be planned out before I try to get this made. Thats right, I have access to a CNC at work, so if it passes the critique of all you water cooling gods out there, I'm gonna have it made!

So please give me your comments and suggestions, good or bad, its my first design so I expect there to be flaws!

Ok, so here is the block:

waterblock sm.jpg


Now the top:

wb top sm.jpg


And finally the complete Assembly:

WB assembly sm.jpg


It is designed for a 1/2 inlet and 2 3/8's outlets. The top will be attacted to the block with 6/32 flat head capscrews to make a nice flush appearance.

BTW... its a socket A design, to use the mounting holes in the board.


So give me your thoughts!
:cool:
 
TheNewGuy143 said:
Very nice, there will be some uber-turbulence in that thing :D I hope to see results soon.
You could send me one for review:)
TheNewGuy

I'll just drive over to your place and let you try it then I be takin' it back!
 
is it possible to make a two barb design? THree barbs are so troublesome especially since they are of differing sizes.
 
My input:
Make the density of the rods a lot higher, like 3x the rods in the same space. Also make them smaller so you can fit more in there. Make them as small as possible and as many as possible. If you can, add little cups or indendtations between them. Next, make the fins to the output barbs a lot thinner and more dense like the rods. Next make some sort of jet over the center of the intake, perhaps small holes offset to that of the rods in a line above where the core would line up on the center of the block and shoot into the cups. Next, up the barb sizes by one so the center is 5/8id and the sides are 1.2id. Then it should be golden.
 
[KX3]rAge said:
How long did you spend in Solidworks designing that block?

Maybe about 2-3 hours total working time in it, I have bad habbit of walking off in the middle of something to its hard to keep track. I'm still learning so sometimes I make something, decide its not what I wanted then it takes a bit to go back and get things how I wanted.
 
pwnt by pat said:
My input:
Make the density of the rods a lot higher, like 3x the rods in the same space. Also make them smaller so you can fit more in there. Make them as small as possible and as many as possible. If you can, add little cups or indendtations between them. Next, make the fins to the output barbs a lot thinner and more dense like the rods. Next make some sort of jet over the center of the intake, perhaps small holes offset to that of the rods in a line above where the core would line up on the center of the block and shoot into the cups. Next, up the barb sizes by one so the center is 5/8id and the sides are 1.2id. Then it should be golden.


Will keep that in mind... I'm thinking, what if instead of rods, I make a lot of small, perhaps half the hiegth cones in the intake, wouldn't need space in between then, they can all but right up against eachother.... milling that might be something else though :p.


And for this one, I'd like to try a 3 barb, but we'll see as things progress I might change my thoughts.

thanks for the input guys! :clap:
 
pwnt by pat said:
They won't break if it's a quality cnc machine and it isn't rushed. You are probably looking at hours upon hours of work though.

Its all free to me as long as the cnc isn't needed :D
 
Well, if I had a CNC that could do the kind of stuff that I've seen CNC machines do in the past, why not go for a little bit more complicated of a design? Jet impingent could work...

My idea for revising that design would be to add jets (a la Cathar), and maybe thin out those vertical channels on the side and add more of them. Generally, you want more surface area and high flow, although you also have to make sure there's some turbulance in there too.
 
I love to design blocks myself, and I'm happy to see other people to try (I'm kind of frustrated just reading reviews of comertial blocks... maybe 'couse I'm in Venezuela and green bucks aren't a choice ... plz don't ask why!).
I take all my nessesary messures outa AMD's, intel's & via's PDF reference desing guides (PLZ some1 point me to nvidia's & ATI's ones 'couse I can't find'em!!!), but also I take on consideration the materials and its dimenssions (which I can find/aford), the tools I can use and my skills. So r u sure u can get such a thick piece of copper? do u own/can use a mill? can u machine those rods? If u can then I'll just love to read @ overclockers.com yer block review ;) :attn:
Any way, I allways take on consideration when designing how I'm gona make/produce them (blocks).
BTW, can u give messures on that block of yours? I'm really interested on the thickness of the copper base at the center.
:thup: looks good! 'tho, aren't the fins too much to work once u have the rods on? I mean, rn't u just squezzing too much on yer design? (proccess/results relation).

PS: sry 'bout my english :)
 
pejcao said:
I love to design blocks myself, and I'm happy to see other people to try (I'm kind of frustrated just reading reviews of comertial blocks... maybe 'couse I'm in Venezuela and green bucks aren't a choice ... plz don't ask why!).
I take all my nessesary messures outa AMD's, intel's & via's PDF reference desing guides (PLZ some1 point me to nvidia's & ATI's ones 'couse I can't find'em!!!), but also I take on consideration the materials and its dimenssions (which I can find/aford), the tools I can use and my skills. So r u sure u can get such a thick piece of copper? do u own/can use a mill? can u machine those rods? If u can then I'll just love to read @ overclockers.com yer block review ;) :attn:
Any way, I allways take on consideration when designing how I'm gona make/produce them (blocks).
BTW, can u give messures on that block of yours? I'm really interested on the thickness of the copper base at the center.
:thup: looks good! 'tho, aren't the fins too much to work once u have the rods on? I mean, rn't u just squezzing too much on yer design? (proccess/results relation).

PS: sry 'bout my english :)

Thanks for the great reply!

Obtaining the stock is not a problem, the company I work for has almost anything you can dream of.... actually they keep about $5 million worth of metals in they're stock at any given moment, so there is plenty to choose from. I do know for a fact that they keep bar of 1" x 3" in stock... that should be great.

The work would be done on the company's CNC, so my ability to mill is not an issue, my buddy runs the CNC so I can just give him a few bucks to do it on his break time... he's done all sorts of things for people before. And the company doesn't care as long as we pay for the stock and/or any tools that might get damaged.

I'll try to whip up a drawing of the block with measurments sometime soon. If my menory serves correct, the block is 12mm think minus the top and the base of it was 2mm thick, the top I know was 5mm.


Anyways, this is still a work in progress, so things are and will be changed. So thanks for all the input so far guys!
 
Well, Its kinda difficult to see the pattern of the pins, they seem way long too. I would chop the total height in half, make the pins about 3/16" long.

The holes in the corner wich I assume is for the socket A mounting, they are way too close to the edge and all it would take is a little drill wobble to make them break through.

The reason for the pins being too long, is that youll have the hardest time milling that deep with that small of a end mill and even harder time finding a good one that long.

Also, those extra fins on the outside are mostly not needed, If done correctly, the heat shouldnt transfer that far and then they would become bottlenecks.

Jon
 
I agree...
ditch teh one side of channels and install a barb with a restrictor plate at a 45d angle or less.
This should accelerate the water and spray it laterally past the fins and still strike the base to some degree. Also cut dimples/cups between the fins #rotor style
 
What kind of CNC are you going to be using? If it's a good one like a Makino or another high speed CNC you will be able to cut that in maybe an hour or two and you won't have to worry about breaking those towers.

What type of software are you using to cut that? I am a Plastic Injection Prototype Moldmaker so I am familiar with stuff like this. If you can ramp your cutter to cut those towers. Don't ruff them out cut right to finish. I cut stuff similar to this all the time. We use Fadal CNC's with Siemens high speed controllers. They are descent but we are looking into some Makino's.

Listen to me I am sure that if you can draw that up then you know how to machine it :D . I am just trying to help.

Good Luck,

Ed
 
Hey another solidworks user!

Cool block man.. BUT those mounting / screwing holes are WAAAY too close to the edge to be safe.. either move them in, or make your block slightly bigger!
 
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