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Jack's worklog

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jackrungh

Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2004
I am, at this moment, cutting cutting acrylic for the shroud. Its going to work out really well I think, and these cases are definately compatible given some effort. Here is my current work, I just finished cutting case and bathing it.

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Now I know this isnt terribly original, pretty much run of the mill ordinary rig. However, it is my first, so obviously I'm extraordinarily excited about it. These crude drawings in paint highlight the only non-standard (albeit not unique) element to the proposed setup:

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As you can see, there is a meshed passive air intake for the 77 Bonneville. Ive measured and there is definately enough room for this with one drive bay left open for DVD/CDr combo drive. Suggestions, flames, and really any posting in this thread at all are welcome. Thanks for educating me these few months past.


P.S - I'd love to take credit for the HC work, but im just not that good yet.

[SHAMELESSPLUGFORWEAPON]
He really is the grandfather of heatercore modding. If you have the means, I highly recommend them, they are so choice. My SilenX's won't do it justice, but for much less than BIX's etc, get some fans with umph and these cores will not only perform better but look better as well. (if thats your thing) It is quality work by a reliable and generous seller.
[/SHAMELESSPLUGFORWEAPON]
 
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why not move the PSU to where you have the pump in that picture, while mounting the pump in the PSU's place with its outlet facing the sidepanel or the block even.
There is no need for your tubing to go all the way to the bottom of the case if your rad is going to be on top.
just a thought

SenC.
 
Its a Lian PC-60.

Zac: Yeah ill definately be done by 11/20 when we meet. This is all in conjunction with a pretty major hardware upgrade as well, so im hoping by then ill have tweaked and arrived at a stable place for transport and gaming. Cant wait, espcially if 11/16 release holds true and we can all feel out HL2 on a good sized lan.

Where do you guys get your pump dampening pads? Home Depot and Lowes no dice for me, overpriced non absorbtion matting for truck beds only. Can anyone reccomend? Prefer not to ship, unless extremely cheap, and am extremely dissatified with PAX or Asaka. Thanks. :)
 
Somone made a post here awhile back about making a stand that got rid of vibration for their pump out of machine screws + bolts + some long rubber things that went over the screw.... all of that should be found in the hardware section of your lowes, im too lazy to look for the post but you should try =p
 
Senater_Cache said:
why not move the PSU to where you have the pump in that picture, while mounting the pump in the PSU's place with its outlet facing the sidepanel or the block even.
There is no need for your tubing to go all the way to the bottom of the case if your rad is going to be on top.
just a thought

No response to my idea?

It would suit you fairly well in terms of airflow and your rather weak aquarium pump.
 
The L20 was a concession made specifically for the noise factor. For the same reason I've used relatively weak but silent SilenX's (58CFM 14dBa) on a heatercore that needs more pressure, panaflo L1A's, and selected the 6002 for its low flow tolerance. Not looking for 3 D4's and an MD30 (hehe sorry nik :) )

So, im looking for a mild to moderate OC with no noise.

In response to your PSU idea, I dont see any appreciable gains for such a solution, and would even predict performance losses. For one, the case is very beautifully engineered for the PSU location current. This wouldnt deterr me from considering it, but with a closed loop i dont think shaving maybe 2-3 inches of tubing off would bring about any gains. Secondly, the PSU in the pump location would all but kill case airflow, presenting a massive blockage for the dual front intakes as well as skewing the flow with its single in housing 120. Similarly, things will get mighty restricted with the addition of the 3.5 cage. While im always open to new ideas, that one really doesnt make sense. (no offence)

I believe you may have that concern because of the insane dimensions of that paint drawing (which i made a month or more ago btw). There is really very little tubing at all in the rig as it is CPU only and the barbs for the core are so radically close to the block (almost too close).

Anyway, thanks for the input, and im continuing the shroud modding currently, been very busy with uni work etc. Friday (until then i need to worry about exams) is more cutting and sanding, as well as the final glue, and once I have those pics to show I can get an accurate measure of tubing lengths and begin the 48 hour bleed.

See you guys in two days :cool:
 
You are bound to save at least a foot of tubing that way !! I think that is a direction well worth exploring.

PSU exhausting out the front intake. HC dual intake. back case fan dual (or single ) exhaust.

or (with heat-rising in mind) HC dual intake. 120mm exhaust in pump location (PSU-spot). PSU front exhaust with aid of a fan (ducted maybe). back casefan intake.

give it some more thought...dont just conform to the "standard" routing setup.
 
I did a little fooling with tubing lengths in my empty case. What you are proposing would be approximately 4 inches of tubing less. Yet for that, I sacrifice an optimal airflow scheme and need to butcher the case futher with my ****-poor dremel skills (PSU hole 120 adaptation, etc.).

Its has been shown here and over at procooling, that even if I were to reduce lengths by as much as a foot, which isnt possible, the performance gains would only be measurable maybe by high calibrated testbeds like pH's

I realize that little about this mod is original, unique, interesting, but that isnt really where I am concerned. I would much rather do things right and orderly than go out of my way for an equal or even slightly worse setup just to be "original." I think far too many people rig up the perfunctory in case setup and have their cores drawing case air, so on that note I diverged. However, the everpresent sense that with every rig you must push forward the forseeable limits of modding and Wcing is just silly.

Thanks for the suggestion, it was one I wouldnt have thought about, but for this specific setup, I believe a different method would be optimum.

EDIT: Heh, I cannot believe that p i s s is a censored word :rolleyes: ;)
 
Okay, I've been lazy, and my roommate's digital is out of batteries, so no pictures for this update, but I am nearly there. The plexi shroud was a pain in the *** (never, ever, ever, ever dremel acrylic. Use a bandsaw, I have melted plastic still imbedded in my arm.), but its done, and on the HC, and the Fan-Shroud-HC assembly is fixed up there in the roof of the PC-60 with 4-40 threaded rods.

The intake duct, as of now, as been scrapped, because between the bottom of the HC and the start of the Motherboard exists about a centimeter and a half of space. Obviously as the HC travels forward, there are no restrictions, and indeed I have a full two optical bays left. However even with a large duct that recedes by the motherboard (most of the rear 120 would have to intake via the cm and a half space) and expands to a good 2 inches deep up forward, I think the restriction of such a narrow air channel for most of that rear 120 would be disadvantageous. This isnt such a bad situation, as I have 4 panaflo 80's on intake both at the bottom front and at the rear back. Because of this, I anticipate near-ambient case temps and no deltaT problems between the fins and the air.

Im currently leak-testing with 90% distilled 10% blue VW antifreeze(not pentosin, just dealership STD). Going slow and steady, the antifreeze I think initially really frothed itself on the first pass through, and the microbubbles abound.

In a few hours or so ill get the camera up and give you an idea of those spacial limitations for the intake. Its a bummer to give up the only sort of original thing to the mod, but the space just isnt there and the performance is really whats important here rather than the originality. More to come.
 
The drawing and first pictures look really neat! Nice job with the holes, my holes never look as nice. Can't wait to see some more. :)
 
Okay, I have neglected showing the finished product under a barrage of exams and research papers, but here she is. It isnt anything special or unique, but I did put a good number of hours of effort into it, so perhaps you care to be entertained by final pics:

6002:
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Pic on its side, but exhaust 80's:
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HC Inlet and Outlet:
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Underside HC fins:
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L20:
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T-line "cap":
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HC squeezed in there:
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From the top:
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And the whole shebang:
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Thats it, im going to upgrade to a Mag 3 in the near future, and itll give me an excuse to drain. I regret that the intake duct didnt work, but as you cna see, there is no clearance at all. Thanks for the input and the information over this past year.

P.S thats dust on the tubing... not bubbles ;)

Oh, and I know its just idiotic to compare temps as they arent accurate quantitatively or relatively, but I cant really resist. 30C idle 33C load :D
 
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very nice. what tool did you use to cut the blowholes on the top of the case?
 
Hehe... thanks Alac... :rolleyes:

Just used dremel reinforced cutting wheels to cut a hole approximately 2mm smaller in diameter from the final cut-lines, then I used the dremel metal grinding/sanding attachment to whittle that rough hole cut outward to my drawn pencil lines. It gets quite quick once you get the technique down, and now I can probably finish out a 120 in 5 minutes. Only issue you run into is a scalding hot dremel tool (had to use a towel wrapped around it to keep from burning myself) and aluminum dust everywhere. Used a painters mask and glasses in a well ventilated room, then vaccumed and bathed everything.

My roomate surprised me mid-work and caught this shot:

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:cool:
 
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