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Home Depot tubing?
- Thread starter HakX
- Start date
- Joined
- Jun 5, 2004
- Location
- New York City
kinking is always somewhat of an issue, as you will have some turns. also, clearflex/tygon will be more stain resistant (cloud less easily), and will be able to bend more. I'd spend the extra $5 or so and get clearflex over home depot tubing.
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2004
home depot tubing has a tendency to collapse from being thin and junky. It also tends to fog up and get easily stained.
- Joined
- Oct 6, 2004
- Location
- Oklahoma City, Ok
Just for info...
10' of MasterKleer + shipping = $10.70 from www.mcmaster.com
The MasterKleer is right on par with the Clearflex60 and as of yet seems to resist clouding a wee bit better although this could simply be my perception.
The Home Depot/Lowes stuff will certainly work but as with most things from those stores, its low quality. The quality issues that may come up as people have posted are the slightly faster clouding (almost all tubing will cloud eventually depending on your additives) and kinking. The reinforced tubing will probably be the best bet if you go with a Home Depot/Lowes offering. The bend radius on the reinforced is worse but it resists kinking quite a bit better.
10' of MasterKleer + shipping = $10.70 from www.mcmaster.com
The MasterKleer is right on par with the Clearflex60 and as of yet seems to resist clouding a wee bit better although this could simply be my perception.
The Home Depot/Lowes stuff will certainly work but as with most things from those stores, its low quality. The quality issues that may come up as people have posted are the slightly faster clouding (almost all tubing will cloud eventually depending on your additives) and kinking. The reinforced tubing will probably be the best bet if you go with a Home Depot/Lowes offering. The bend radius on the reinforced is worse but it resists kinking quite a bit better.
- Joined
- Aug 22, 2004
I have no problems ever with the cheap Home Depot tubing! seems to me that it will get a film of junk on the inside
when it is new, cleaning is not hard if you use a long thin bottle brush like the kind they use to clean test tubes and
other stuff. Once it has been cleaned it will pretty much stay that way until you put tap water in the cooling loop.
(another reason to used distilled water)
when it is new, cleaning is not hard if you use a long thin bottle brush like the kind they use to clean test tubes and
other stuff. Once it has been cleaned it will pretty much stay that way until you put tap water in the cooling loop.
(another reason to used distilled water)
- Joined
- Oct 6, 2004
- Location
- Oklahoma City, Ok
Another thing for cleaning hoses- cleaning rods for shotguns. They sell em in most sporting good stores and dont cost that much. They have a cloth 'head' which you can put some cleaner on and it cleans things up pretty quick.
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2003
I used 1/2"id 3/4"od in my system for almost a year. Tubes never stained. I have aluminum and copper in my loop, just used hydrx. I used 1/2"id 5/8" (and btw thats not 1/8" wall its 1/16". If it was 1/8" wall the od would be 1/8 + 1/8 + 1/2 = 3/4) for my filling and bleeding and that stuff kinks like nobody's business. The 3/4"od is nice and sturdy. Hard to kink. You can make tight turns with it but you have to boil some water and bend it in that permanently.
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2004
- Location
- Dallas, Texas
Is there a written guide to using boiling water to shape and form tubing? I hear about it constantly, probably in about a third of the post if posted in/read boiling water and tubing was mentioned. But, never is it said in a way that the headless would be able to figure it out.
- Joined
- Jun 5, 2004
- Location
- New York City
step 1: boil water
step 2: stick one end of the tubing in the water, submerging about 4" of it
step 3: leave it in there for about 30 seconds
step 4: take it out
step 5: put it over the barb you want to put it on, and it should fit easier
This is for putting tubing on an oversized barb, say 1/2" ID tubing over a 3/4" OD barb. But you could apply this same method to boiling it prevent kinks, just boil the part you want to bend in a special way, then bend it how you wish. Hopefully it should become a little more rigid and stay like that, causing less kinks.
step 2: stick one end of the tubing in the water, submerging about 4" of it
step 3: leave it in there for about 30 seconds
step 4: take it out
step 5: put it over the barb you want to put it on, and it should fit easier
This is for putting tubing on an oversized barb, say 1/2" ID tubing over a 3/4" OD barb. But you could apply this same method to boiling it prevent kinks, just boil the part you want to bend in a special way, then bend it how you wish. Hopefully it should become a little more rigid and stay like that, causing less kinks.
- Joined
- May 22, 2004
- Location
- Gainesville, FL / Frankfurt Germany
In my Journal....found here , I use boiling water to stretch 3/4" OD tubing over 3/4" OD barbs. The tubing had a wall thinckness of 1/8", so thats how far I stretched in the round.
Get a pot with some water....make it boil.
Submerge tubing 1/2" deeper than the part you actually want to stretch.
Slide the tubing on at a 45_d angle.
Use some sort of dull knife or stick to leverage the tubing over the barbs.
apply pressure to one side of the tubing...the the opposing side, until it is on bit by bit.
Get a pot with some water....make it boil.
Submerge tubing 1/2" deeper than the part you actually want to stretch.
Slide the tubing on at a 45_d angle.
Use some sort of dull knife or stick to leverage the tubing over the barbs.
apply pressure to one side of the tubing...the the opposing side, until it is on bit by bit.
CandymanCan
Disabled
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2003
- Location
- Woodbridge, Va
When i use the home depot clear tubng to aviod kinking, just fill the system up with Fairly warm water it makes the tubes flexible, and later on when u moove stuff around to get kinks out use a Blow dryer to get the tube warm and it becomes Flexible again.
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