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water cooling tips for the pros

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rhino56

Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2003
Location
Arkansas
if you have a tip to add please do. you may save someone some trouble.
my tip is this.

if (when) you use water in your system it is better to use (deionized)purified water then distilled. distilled still has all the minerals in it that contribute to the corrision of metals and other components. the antifreeze has many corrision inhibiters in it but by using the distilled over purified your shortening the life of the fluid.

Please add anything you feel is a contribution.
 
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Plain, purified, unadultered water is the BEST means of conducting heat through your watercooling loop. Antifreeze and other additives do nothing to improve your temps - they only reason we use them is for protection from galvanic corrosion and to prevent nasties growing in the water.

Pump head height is much more important that flow rate, but we all knew that...right?
 
pwnt by pat might be correct - I had the same thought. Distilling water should rid it of ALL particles, since the minerals won't evaporate along with the water.
 
on the jug of my distilled water it says great for drinking, cooking, iron, labrotories. i dont think they would say that if it had minerals in it.
 
Jeez...distilled water is nothing but pure h2o that has been ridded of all minerals and other nasty little things....often it is also ozonated.

rhino, you got the two types of water mixed up man.
Thank god this isnt called "...tips from the pros"

Johan is absolutely right.
 
my tip is to always keep in mind that motherborad temps mean next to nothing ( unless a + / - 10C ballpark is good enough for you) and definitely shouldnt be compared, especially between different mobos / brands.

ohh and remember kids....always keep your Flukes ready.
 
Use propylene based prestone to kept your tubing from clouding and use one tea cup of iodine to keep the bacteria at bay..
 
Senater_Cache said:
Jeez...distilled water is nothing but pure h2o that has been ridded of all minerals and other nasty little things....often it is also ozonated.

rhino, you got the two types of water mixed up man.
Thank god this isnt called "...tips from the pros"

Johan is absolutely right.
Thank you for clearing that up, Rhino confused the hell outa me switching those up.
 
Nitrix said:
Use propylene based prestone to kept your tubing from clouding and use one tea cup of iodine to keep the bacteria at bay..
I hope u mean tea spoon :santa:
 
ok, distilled is pretty good no doubt, people been using it for some time now.
deionized is what i meant to say. water is deionised by passing it through glass columns with deionising resins, and then it will contain no metal salts, acids, alkalis and other stuff which ionize's when dissolved in water.

ionization is measured by passing an electric current through the water with platinum electrodes to measure resistance. distilled water had a resistance of 58 thousand ohms per square centimetre of electrode at a distance of one centimetre apart. deionised water had a resistance of 4 million ohms.

im no pro at water cooling comps but i been researching automotive stuff for years, and coolant system preservation has been one of the things ive read a lot about. when you do a search on water you realize that the earth really is covered in it, and so is google. lol



mainly what happens is when you bring metals in contact with each other they make a reaction. certain metals are ok together. aluminum and copper may not be in direct contact but thru the water the particles can contaminate surfaces, and the acids in the water also.
just like in a house if any part of your copper pipes are touching galvanized metal it creates a very low electric charge that causes corrision like what you would see on a battery terminal.
a lot of people (plumbers) will remove the old galvanized pipes and replace with copper to eliminate it. look on top of your hot water heater, you should see 2 die-electric unions, they break the contact between the 2 metals. one of the many things that people (plumbers) overlook is that even though there are no remaining pipes of galvanized in the house the pipes are still laying across a galvanized duct from the furnace.
so the pipes still corrode.
when you heat metals you create a faster environment for things to occur like that. as the molecules heat up they are moving faster and expand and seperate faster.
ok im tired. we can continue later.
 

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^^^ gross

Alright one thing I noticed on forums (can't confirm from my experience). HydrX tends to cloud tubing esp. non-tygon one after a while. Dunno how much this is true tho but it seems that it's HydrX rather than other additives is most likely to fall out as some sort of residue on the tubing
 
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Talon101 said:
that's pretty nasty... is that growth or some sort of oxidation?
its algea i guess. probably a combination of metals and growth. but dont think it cant happen to you. :eek:
many rust and corrosion inhibitors will put a film of protective layer over all the surfaces within the system, like water wetter will build up and clog ports if you add enough over time and it starts to flake off the surfaces.
use only what you need of the inhibitors.


tips for the pros because pros know what it take to become a pro. listening and learning from others everyday.
 
if you added that propylene based prestone and iodine along with hydrx would that negate the clouding effects of hydrx....or is it a choice between using hydrx or prestone.... I want a good water mix that also looks a cool green under UV lights!!!!
 
deionized water will slowly but surely pull ions from th emetals around it. It will not be deionozed water for long. So save yourself the BS and just get distilled right away.

I am unsure of what the effects of ion exchange between water and metal is, it may be nothing.
 
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